I'd like to drill a small (1/4") hole in the stainless steel tubing of my stern pulpit (pushpit) to thread a GPS antenna wire through it. Does anyone have any tips on drilling in this tough material? Also, any tips on reinstalling the factory installed electical fitting on the end of the antenna wire that I will have to remove to thread it through the pushpit? Thanks, Agaliha
Drilling a S.S. pushpit
- Thread starter agaliha
- Start date
- Status
Built-in antenna ?
If you havent purchased a GPS yet, have you considered a GPS with a built-in antenna?
If you havent purchased a GPS yet, have you considered a GPS with a built-in antenna?
Tim R.
Tim R. has a story about an antenna wire but I don't remember enough of the details. All I remember is that his antenna wire got frayed or ripped out?
Tim R. has a story about an antenna wire but I don't remember enough of the details. All I remember is that his antenna wire got frayed or ripped out?
Drilling stainless steel
Use a slow speed, use cobalt if you can (if possible, get your cobalt drill with a metal cutting profile , not 'general purpose' profile), lubricate if possible, use steady pressure ..... *once you start dont stop until you are through*.
Use a slow speed, use cobalt if you can (if possible, get your cobalt drill with a metal cutting profile , not 'general purpose' profile), lubricate if possible, use steady pressure ..... *once you start dont stop until you are through*.
Getting started
Make sure you tap a nice dimple exactly where you want the hole to be. Otherwise you won't be able to hold the drill bit steady. Go to an auto parts store to find the right bit -- the kind of store that caters to gearheads. I struggled with getting a hard enough bit till I stumbled into one. The right bit should cut through the tubing fairly easily.
Make sure you tap a nice dimple exactly where you want the hole to be. Otherwise you won't be able to hold the drill bit steady. Go to an auto parts store to find the right bit -- the kind of store that caters to gearheads. I struggled with getting a hard enough bit till I stumbled into one. The right bit should cut through the tubing fairly easily.
Cobalt drill
I know Higgs mentioned it below, but wanted to re-emphasize that a cobalt drill is required to drill stainless. Or at least, a cobalt drill will make the job incredibly easier; my brain-dead-dealer went through a dozen steel drill bits installing a bimini. Paul
I know Higgs mentioned it below, but wanted to re-emphasize that a cobalt drill is required to drill stainless. Or at least, a cobalt drill will make the job incredibly easier; my brain-dead-dealer went through a dozen steel drill bits installing a bimini. Paul
use plenty of cutting oil
Good advice here on drilling in stainless but maybe this is helpful also. The problem with drilling stainless is that if it heats up during the drilling process, the metal hardens and then you are somewhat "screwed". So you want to make sure you dont get things hot. The good advice so far: use a new cobalt bit drill at slow rpm I will add that you should use plenty of "cutting oil" (usually available at hardware stores). This will aid both in the drill bit cutting into the metal but it will also help keep the heat down.
Good advice here on drilling in stainless but maybe this is helpful also. The problem with drilling stainless is that if it heats up during the drilling process, the metal hardens and then you are somewhat "screwed". So you want to make sure you dont get things hot. The good advice so far: use a new cobalt bit drill at slow rpm I will add that you should use plenty of "cutting oil" (usually available at hardware stores). This will aid both in the drill bit cutting into the metal but it will also help keep the heat down.
spring-loaded punch
To start any hole in hard metal, it's best (as others have said) to punch out a dimple first. The best thing is to get a spring-loaded punch - a great little tool for all sorts of jobs. This includes for car thieves who want to break a car window - first use the spring-loaded punch.
To start any hole in hard metal, it's best (as others have said) to punch out a dimple first. The best thing is to get a spring-loaded punch - a great little tool for all sorts of jobs. This includes for car thieves who want to break a car window - first use the spring-loaded punch.
Agaliha
Don't be too overwhelmed by all the good advice here. This really isn't difficult and in fact, I did just what you described last summer by simply using my old everyday drill bits and went at it not knowing all the tips posted previously here. I guess innocence (read- ignorance) is bliss! I never knew this was so complicated.
Don't be too overwhelmed by all the good advice here. This really isn't difficult and in fact, I did just what you described last summer by simply using my old everyday drill bits and went at it not knowing all the tips posted previously here. I guess innocence (read- ignorance) is bliss! I never knew this was so complicated.
Here I've been carrying around a brick all this time.
Mine was shredded by an anchor line
Departing from a raft up, a friend had released the bow line too soon and the wind pushed the aft end of my boat against the anchor line of the downwind boat. My GPS antenna comes out through a grommet on the starboard side just above the rubrail and runs up the exterior of my pushpit tubing. I used the grommet because it was already there and not being used. I have since moved the wire to the inboard side of the rail. Tim R.
Departing from a raft up, a friend had released the bow line too soon and the wind pushed the aft end of my boat against the anchor line of the downwind boat. My GPS antenna comes out through a grommet on the starboard side just above the rubrail and runs up the exterior of my pushpit tubing. I used the grommet because it was already there and not being used. I have since moved the wire to the inboard side of the rail. Tim R.
GPS antenna
The Gps antenna is always vulnerable whern mounted on the stern rail from damage and water ingress from spray or rainwater. The GPS signal is not attenuated by GRP so the antenna can be mounted in a locker without loosing the signal. Just keep it away from metal. Mine is fixed under the cockpit floor and works really well.
The Gps antenna is always vulnerable whern mounted on the stern rail from damage and water ingress from spray or rainwater. The GPS signal is not attenuated by GRP so the antenna can be mounted in a locker without loosing the signal. Just keep it away from metal. Mine is fixed under the cockpit floor and works really well.
Agree with others
You can mount the antenna other than on the rail. Somewhere inside the hull will work fine. Also if you have not yet purchased your GPS, a unit with an internal antenna works fine. I have a Garmin 498C, with internal antenna, and I can't tell any difference between it and the older 198 with external antenna I had previously.
You can mount the antenna other than on the rail. Somewhere inside the hull will work fine. Also if you have not yet purchased your GPS, a unit with an internal antenna works fine. I have a Garmin 498C, with internal antenna, and I can't tell any difference between it and the older 198 with external antenna I had previously.
Wow. More drilling advice than Exxon gets!
I really appreciate the answers and advice. I will dimple the tubing and use progressively larger cobalt bits with oil. I prefer an external antenna because others have told me that integrated antenna units get compromised reception underneath wet canvas or wet decks. My handheld GPS certainly has this problem and I want to maximize reception. Thanks for the photos. And thanks for the offer to send me a dental tool! I think I have something that will work for deburring the inside. Anyone have any advice on replacing the connection on the end of the cable? Is it like a TV coaxial fitting? I've done those in the house. Thanks, Agaliha
I really appreciate the answers and advice. I will dimple the tubing and use progressively larger cobalt bits with oil. I prefer an external antenna because others have told me that integrated antenna units get compromised reception underneath wet canvas or wet decks. My handheld GPS certainly has this problem and I want to maximize reception. Thanks for the photos. And thanks for the offer to send me a dental tool! I think I have something that will work for deburring the inside. Anyone have any advice on replacing the connection on the end of the cable? Is it like a TV coaxial fitting? I've done those in the house. Thanks, Agaliha
I've drilled lots of SS using
evaporated milk as the coolant (lubricant if you will). It works very well. It's vicious and slimy/sticky. Apply it with a syringe as you drill. Better than oil because it steams away the heat at a cooler temp (boiling instead of smoking). My cobalt bits are like new after lots of use on SS. It costs next to nothing too. I got this tip from a metal fabricator friend of mine. And as stated above, slow and steady. Rob
evaporated milk as the coolant (lubricant if you will). It works very well. It's vicious and slimy/sticky. Apply it with a syringe as you drill. Better than oil because it steams away the heat at a cooler temp (boiling instead of smoking). My cobalt bits are like new after lots of use on SS. It costs next to nothing too. I got this tip from a metal fabricator friend of mine. And as stated above, slow and steady. Rob
Drill steady tool
Never used it, don't have one, but you should probably look into getting this drill steady tool from Sailright. (of course they may have it at Harbor Freight, Lowes, or Home Depot) They say: "Simply swing it onto the tubing, clamp the knobs down tightly and drill. It won't slip and you'll have one hand free to hold onto the boat with."
Never used it, don't have one, but you should probably look into getting this drill steady tool from Sailright. (of course they may have it at Harbor Freight, Lowes, or Home Depot) They say: "Simply swing it onto the tubing, clamp the knobs down tightly and drill. It won't slip and you'll have one hand free to hold onto the boat with."
- Status