I would like to replace a steaming light and have one without the same screw mounting pattern. Would you fill the the old holes with 5200 or what? What problems do you forsee in drilling the new holes if any?
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Tim
No problem
Is there any way to get the same steaming light assembly so you don't have to drill new holes? If not, its not that big of a deal. Screw holes won't weaken the mast at all, unless you drill a lot of them in one area anyway! Things to consider: 1. Do you have internal halyards? If so, make sure you do not use self-tapping or sheet-metal screws. Drill & tap for a machine screw, and use the shortest screw (or cut one short) possible. Use Loctite on the screw. 2. Make sure not to drill into any internal wiring inside the mast. 3. Old holes: file the edges smooth if they are rough at all. You can use a pop-rivet if you like to "fill" the old holes. It won't provide anything other than aesthetics, but it looks a lot neater, IMO. Good luck! Tim
Is there any way to get the same steaming light assembly so you don't have to drill new holes? If not, its not that big of a deal. Screw holes won't weaken the mast at all, unless you drill a lot of them in one area anyway! Things to consider: 1. Do you have internal halyards? If so, make sure you do not use self-tapping or sheet-metal screws. Drill & tap for a machine screw, and use the shortest screw (or cut one short) possible. Use Loctite on the screw. 2. Make sure not to drill into any internal wiring inside the mast. 3. Old holes: file the edges smooth if they are rough at all. You can use a pop-rivet if you like to "fill" the old holes. It won't provide anything other than aesthetics, but it looks a lot neater, IMO. Good luck! Tim
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Cliff
Toooooo many holes!!!!
Put the new light in the old holes. Do all you can do to make that happen. I don't like new holes in the mast for ANY reason. Remember even stainless screws react to aluminum, which is the material used to make the mast. Drilling into the mast, with halyards and wiring inside, is iffey at best. Don't risk it if there is ANY other choice. Cliff
Put the new light in the old holes. Do all you can do to make that happen. I don't like new holes in the mast for ANY reason. Remember even stainless screws react to aluminum, which is the material used to make the mast. Drilling into the mast, with halyards and wiring inside, is iffey at best. Don't risk it if there is ANY other choice. Cliff
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Glenn Bollin
Liquid Aluminum
George, You might try this product. I have used it on Al railings and flagpoles and it blends in fairly well. I agree with trying to avoid any additional holes just to be on the safe side. Glenn WindWisp 26.5 Hunter
George, You might try this product. I have used it on Al railings and flagpoles and it blends in fairly well. I agree with trying to avoid any additional holes just to be on the safe side. Glenn WindWisp 26.5 Hunter
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Dale I
Tim,....Loc-tite??
I think I'd use Tef-gel rather than loc-tite....The stainless screws will weld themselves to the alum. mast pretty well all by itself....and ya might want to get the thing loose someday without twisting off the old screws and making evem MORE holes.. (my$.02)
I think I'd use Tef-gel rather than loc-tite....The stainless screws will weld themselves to the alum. mast pretty well all by itself....and ya might want to get the thing loose someday without twisting off the old screws and making evem MORE holes.. (my$.02)
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Tim
Sure Dale!
Dale, I took my aluminum Harken roller-furler foils apart last Fall, and had no problem getting the stainless setscrews out. They were assembled with Loctite #271 (red) probably 10 years ago! Perhaps the Loctite creates a barrier to prevent 100% contact between the screws and foils, thus preventing total galvanic bonding. Also, I'm looking at the assembly manual right now, and it specifies Loctite 271 for these screws, and is what was supplied with the furling system. Cheers, Tim
Dale, I took my aluminum Harken roller-furler foils apart last Fall, and had no problem getting the stainless setscrews out. They were assembled with Loctite #271 (red) probably 10 years ago! Perhaps the Loctite creates a barrier to prevent 100% contact between the screws and foils, thus preventing total galvanic bonding. Also, I'm looking at the assembly manual right now, and it specifies Loctite 271 for these screws, and is what was supplied with the furling system. Cheers, Tim
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CLIF
i did the same thing
I just did the same thing on my oday 23. I had no choice but to drill new holes. I used pop rivets. Everything seems to work fine. Time will tell. I left the existing holes open. clif
I just did the same thing on my oday 23. I had no choice but to drill new holes. I used pop rivets. Everything seems to work fine. Time will tell. I left the existing holes open. clif
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Les Andersen
Aluminum Screws
George, Since this will not be under any real strain why not use aluminum machine screws? There won't be any reaction at all. Not recommended if there is any load on the screw but for a light should be fine. Find them at most good hardware stores. Les s/v Mutual Fun
George, Since this will not be under any real strain why not use aluminum machine screws? There won't be any reaction at all. Not recommended if there is any load on the screw but for a light should be fine. Find them at most good hardware stores. Les s/v Mutual Fun
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Cliff
No new holes!!!
I agree that ANY new holes in structural aluminium spars are not good. I was considering replacing my juvenile-looking round-tubing spreaders with nice streamlined aerofoil ones from DAMCO but realised it would entail removing both spreader brackets-- each of which is fastened with about 8 screws-- and drilling all new holes for new ones. --in THAT location??? NO WAY. I may adapt the aerofoil spreaders to use the old round brackets. But if not then forget it. I am also removing a lot or excess hardware-- like an oversized outhaul track for jiffy reefing and some other stuff-- and will also have to move the boom bail to accommodate the traveller, a sent of holes that will probably not be able to be filled. One option is to leave the screws in the holes even though the hardware is removed-- they take up space and prevent sheer movement of the skin. Aluminium screws are available which will work for this purpose. Put 'em in with Loc-Tite. But I will have to check out this Liquid Aluminium. I remember some greyish stuff that could be sanded after it turned to ceramic and blended it really well (being careful not to hit anodising with sandpaper!). Does anyone know if that's what this is? Anyway making an adapter out of aluminium, stainless, StarBoard, or even wood is infinitely preferable to moving holes. That said-- I am contemplating the same alteration and will have to consider how to do this too. Let's swap pictures! JC 2
I agree that ANY new holes in structural aluminium spars are not good. I was considering replacing my juvenile-looking round-tubing spreaders with nice streamlined aerofoil ones from DAMCO but realised it would entail removing both spreader brackets-- each of which is fastened with about 8 screws-- and drilling all new holes for new ones. --in THAT location??? NO WAY. I may adapt the aerofoil spreaders to use the old round brackets. But if not then forget it. I am also removing a lot or excess hardware-- like an oversized outhaul track for jiffy reefing and some other stuff-- and will also have to move the boom bail to accommodate the traveller, a sent of holes that will probably not be able to be filled. One option is to leave the screws in the holes even though the hardware is removed-- they take up space and prevent sheer movement of the skin. Aluminium screws are available which will work for this purpose. Put 'em in with Loc-Tite. But I will have to check out this Liquid Aluminium. I remember some greyish stuff that could be sanded after it turned to ceramic and blended it really well (being careful not to hit anodising with sandpaper!). Does anyone know if that's what this is? Anyway making an adapter out of aluminium, stainless, StarBoard, or even wood is infinitely preferable to moving holes. That said-- I am contemplating the same alteration and will have to consider how to do this too. Let's swap pictures! JC 2
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Garry @ S/V TASHTEGO
Adapter
One solution is to make an adapter. I have done this for a couple of low stress items. Make an adapter from 1/2" starboard or maybe from teak. The adapter should be shaped like the base of the light being mounted but a little wider maybe 1/8". Drill holes so that the adapter can fit the old threaded mounting holes. Then predrill new holes in the adapter for 7/16" or 3/8" screws to mount the light on the adapter. You end up with a good looking installation, the adapter keeps the stainless base of the light off the aluminum mast and you make no new holes! If the light is being mounted on a curved portion of the mast you can shape the back of the adapter to fit the curve with a rasp and sandpaper.
One solution is to make an adapter. I have done this for a couple of low stress items. Make an adapter from 1/2" starboard or maybe from teak. The adapter should be shaped like the base of the light being mounted but a little wider maybe 1/8". Drill holes so that the adapter can fit the old threaded mounting holes. Then predrill new holes in the adapter for 7/16" or 3/8" screws to mount the light on the adapter. You end up with a good looking installation, the adapter keeps the stainless base of the light off the aluminum mast and you make no new holes! If the light is being mounted on a curved portion of the mast you can shape the back of the adapter to fit the curve with a rasp and sandpaper.
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