I have a hunter 25 with gelcoat problems and a keel that moves two inches to the side.I have the ability to fix the boat but is it worth it.As some of you know the hull is molded fiberglass and has no wood to rot.Shes a 74 and not worth a lot of money at best.There are at least ten blisters to fix and an epoxy barrier coat to apply along with bottom paint.I have already sanded off the bottom paint and that was a lot of work.Should I finish or should I buy another boat for my trailer.Is there another boat about this size that makes this whole thing seem ccrazy.
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Information in abundance
Hey Micheal Do your self a big favor and DON'T use any automative products on your boat. Get a catalog from BOAT U.S. and read up on the right products for your situation. At the start of every chapter it tells you more about how to fix things and what products to use than any other understandable source I know of. Steven
Hey Micheal Do your self a big favor and DON'T use any automative products on your boat. Get a catalog from BOAT U.S. and read up on the right products for your situation. At the start of every chapter it tells you more about how to fix things and what products to use than any other understandable source I know of. Steven
Do-It-Yourself
Sounds like the hardest part, stripping the bottom, is done. Check out the West System epoxy products. They have everything you need for repair projects. West publishes all the information and instructions you need to use their products. I completely refinished a "well used" fishing boat last winter using the West system. I looked at it as a learning experience that would help me in the future (and besides I had nothing to lose but a junky boat that wasn't worth much like it was.) Now I can use the things I learned on my 1994 23.5 as needed.
Sounds like the hardest part, stripping the bottom, is done. Check out the West System epoxy products. They have everything you need for repair projects. West publishes all the information and instructions you need to use their products. I completely refinished a "well used" fishing boat last winter using the West system. I looked at it as a learning experience that would help me in the future (and besides I had nothing to lose but a junky boat that wasn't worth much like it was.) Now I can use the things I learned on my 1994 23.5 as needed.
WE HAVE SIMILAR SITUATIONS
I am an owner of an H-25. Mine is totally gutted out right now. It was broken into, vandalized, left open to the elements, had 2 1/2' of rain water in the hull so all interior wood was shot, cabin tops are delaminating, no rudder, mast or sails. OK call me crazy but I am restoring it. I love Hunters and I am also taking the opportunity to change the interior cabin layout to suit me & my families needs. If you wish to e-mail me you can get me at: RiSKIT37@cs.com RUSS KLINE
I am an owner of an H-25. Mine is totally gutted out right now. It was broken into, vandalized, left open to the elements, had 2 1/2' of rain water in the hull so all interior wood was shot, cabin tops are delaminating, no rudder, mast or sails. OK call me crazy but I am restoring it. I love Hunters and I am also taking the opportunity to change the interior cabin layout to suit me & my families needs. If you wish to e-mail me you can get me at: RiSKIT37@cs.com RUSS KLINE
Finish Her
It sounds like you have the worst behind you. Fixing blisters is pretty easy and inexpensive to do yourself. Then seal the bottom, put on a coat of bottom primer and paint. I would advise you to get some professional advice on the keel situation before you do anything else. The H25 is a great boat. Once you get it into shape the are pretty low maintenance.
It sounds like you have the worst behind you. Fixing blisters is pretty easy and inexpensive to do yourself. Then seal the bottom, put on a coat of bottom primer and paint. I would advise you to get some professional advice on the keel situation before you do anything else. The H25 is a great boat. Once you get it into shape the are pretty low maintenance.
Finish Her - the worst part is already done
I have a 77 H-25. I bought mine a year and a half ago and she wasn't in the best of shape but for some reason, I had to have her. She'd been in the water for 10 years without being hauled or having any repairs or rigging work done, so I had my work cut out. The bottom wasn't a pretty sight, nor was the keel. I had a boat yard in SF do the keel work (way over my ability) and friends helped me do the bottom work. We actually had a lot of fun and it went rather quickly, but the food and beer tab was unsightly -- oh well! And I couldn't even sail her for the first 3 months I owned her. She's now got new standing and running rigging, new motor, waxed to the max, new canvas and upholstery and just like new. It was worth every hour and every penny. If I had it to do all over again, I'd still go to the wall to make her right. No regrets! She's a quick, very sturdy little boat with a lot of spirit. She's in the water in SF all year around so she'll be hauled again in April 2001. Once again I'll do whatever it takes to get the job done right to keep her in great shape. But this time will be quick and easy. One long hard weekend but well worth it! You've already done the rough part. You can't stop now. It's only going to get better and you'll be in great shape by Spring -- ready to rock and roll! I hope you decide to keep going. Ms. Toad's Wild Ride sends her best!
I have a 77 H-25. I bought mine a year and a half ago and she wasn't in the best of shape but for some reason, I had to have her. She'd been in the water for 10 years without being hauled or having any repairs or rigging work done, so I had my work cut out. The bottom wasn't a pretty sight, nor was the keel. I had a boat yard in SF do the keel work (way over my ability) and friends helped me do the bottom work. We actually had a lot of fun and it went rather quickly, but the food and beer tab was unsightly -- oh well! And I couldn't even sail her for the first 3 months I owned her. She's now got new standing and running rigging, new motor, waxed to the max, new canvas and upholstery and just like new. It was worth every hour and every penny. If I had it to do all over again, I'd still go to the wall to make her right. No regrets! She's a quick, very sturdy little boat with a lot of spirit. She's in the water in SF all year around so she'll be hauled again in April 2001. Once again I'll do whatever it takes to get the job done right to keep her in great shape. But this time will be quick and easy. One long hard weekend but well worth it! You've already done the rough part. You can't stop now. It's only going to get better and you'll be in great shape by Spring -- ready to rock and roll! I hope you decide to keep going. Ms. Toad's Wild Ride sends her best!
Not hard to fix but time consumming
To fix the Keel side to side movement independent of boat. It is the combination of 2 things. 1. hull/keel joint, if it does not leak, it's probably good. However 8 years ago I embeded it in a paste of West Epoxy w/ filler. Then I put a three inch fillet from keel to hull. 2. The above did not solve the problem entirely. The stringers supporting the cabin floor had delaminated from the hull and hull was flexing. I expoxed carbon fibre reinforced stringers back to the hull. I expoxied carbon fibre tape on the top of the stringers. Then carbon tape to the hull at stringer location. Then epoxy with filler, stringer to hull. Then epoxy fibreglass cloth from stringer to hull into wet filler above. Three layers of carbon or fbcloth was typically used. The hull flex has been eliminated, and the keel moves with boat. Good luck, Chris Stater Atlanta, GA email: seas@compuserve.com P.S. Also the hull is to thin at the back of the keel. I hit a rock at 5knts, and a leak started. I doubled the thickness of the hull at this location 1 foot each way.
To fix the Keel side to side movement independent of boat. It is the combination of 2 things. 1. hull/keel joint, if it does not leak, it's probably good. However 8 years ago I embeded it in a paste of West Epoxy w/ filler. Then I put a three inch fillet from keel to hull. 2. The above did not solve the problem entirely. The stringers supporting the cabin floor had delaminated from the hull and hull was flexing. I expoxed carbon fibre reinforced stringers back to the hull. I expoxied carbon fibre tape on the top of the stringers. Then carbon tape to the hull at stringer location. Then epoxy with filler, stringer to hull. Then epoxy fibreglass cloth from stringer to hull into wet filler above. Three layers of carbon or fbcloth was typically used. The hull flex has been eliminated, and the keel moves with boat. Good luck, Chris Stater Atlanta, GA email: seas@compuserve.com P.S. Also the hull is to thin at the back of the keel. I hit a rock at 5knts, and a leak started. I doubled the thickness of the hull at this location 1 foot each way.
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