Downwind sailing on our 356

Kings Gambit · Sep 12, 2019

I recently installed a Gyb’Easy boom brake. The installation instructions answer your questions. Basically, the distance between the brake apparatus at the boom attachment point and the gooseneck should equal the distance between the brake and the turning blocks on deck, which are fastened to the chain plate at the lower shroud. In my case, it was necessary to install lines of several inches length between the blocks and the chain plates so the blocks would lay closer to the point where the brake attached to the boom. Otherwise, the distance between the brake and the blocks would have been much greater than the distance between the brake and the gooseneck. The attachment point of the brake is just aft of the attachment point of the vang-kicker. In fact, it’s on the same bracket; but, I may install a new bracket for the brake.

chuckwayne · Sep 15, 2019

don't remember which one I used, but there's a standard one that's close and I shaped it to fit properly. I use a telescoping 17' standard pole and it works well

shemandr · Sep 16, 2019

I think it has to be curved if I understand the question.
RONSTAN 2 3/8" Stainless Steel Spinnaker Pole Ring | West Marine (Or you might want the Ronstan round base - whichever has the closest fit to your mast.)
And be mindful that halyards and wiring run inside the mast in a conduit that is part of the extrusion. When I installed one on my H356 I think I used stainless machine screws in a tapped hole. I didn't want rough rivet ends in there. Pay attention to height. Since it isn't adjustable, you want it basically perpendicular to the deck to hold the sail out as far as possible. If you use the 110 sail that is OEM, I think the J is around 12,' and 17' could be too long.

Jrtauber · Sep 16, 2019

For the price of a boom brake and whisker poll you can get a top down furler and fly an asymmetrical spinnaker and have much better down wind performance. The anchor roller makes a perfect sprit for the tack line. That Glenn Henderson hull should fly downwind with an asym. Jerry .

Claudeo267 · Sep 16, 2019

I think Jerry is right. I looked at all options to improve downwind and light air performance on my 2006 H33, in addition to a folding prop, and last year installed a retractable bowsprit that feeds forward through a ring bolted to the anchor roller, from which I fly a Doyle custom "code" style sail, really a screecher, on a furler. It takes about 10 minutes to pull the thing out of the bag and set it up, including rigging the continuous furling line and the sheets to the helm. The sheets run through "twings" that can raise or lower the sheeting angle and that substitute for the jib sheet cars. I paid extra for sun-protection, so I can leave the sail up for days at a time, or even longer when cruising. In light air, I can sail from about 50 degrees apparent. Downwind, the sail is good to about 140 degrees, probably up to about 15 knots. or more if I am feeling brave. We all know that our later model Hunters, love them as we may, with the swept back spreaders and giant main sails, are not built for light air or downwind sailing, but this code sail has changed all that for me, and I set it and deploy it almost every time I sail in under 8 knots of true wind when beating, or in under 10-15 knots of true wind when reaching or running. I am not a lifelong sailor, nor do I race, but I do single hand a lot, and I have no trouble deploying and furling my code sail on my own. There is no sock, I do not have to go forward, and it furls with little effort. The same top-down furler unit that I use for the code sail could also be used to furl an asymmetrical spinnaker, and the plan was to add one of those, but, honestly, performance is so much improved with the code sail that I think I am good. The setup did cost me a small fortune by the time I was done, but worth it, I think.

chuckwayne · Sep 16, 2019

jvoorhies said:
Thanks Chuck, was your a flat or curved padeye?

The curved are 3x as much!

curved, of course! look at the Ronstan padeye at West marine - it's $62

Model # 111583 | Mfg # RF41 | UPC # 9316800024865

Tipsynippertoo · Sep 17, 2019

Anyone heard of the Twizzle Rig? (A google search will bring up loads of info') I had often thought that two Jibs on the same furler would be a great idea, so researched it. It turns out that someone had already thought of it.
I purchased a second hand Jib that was about the same vintage as our original, which I had to sew to the leading edge of the original as my furler didn't have a double slot for the bolt rope. The two jibs have a sheet each. When sailing into wind they work just the same as a single Jib, the redundant Jib lays against the working Jib. When sailing down wind the two Jibs open out (makes me smile every time!). I recently picked up a second hand spinnaker pole which allows me to continue to use them with the wind up to 30 deg off of the stern. The difference is astounding, and if the wind starts to pick up you can just furl away as much as you want. I have not found the need for the complicated double pole affair that is shown on the videos, and only use the pole if the wind is not exactly aft. Clearly the double pole will make the rig more efficient, but I don't often get the opportunity to sail for extended periods downwind as most of my sailing is coastal short hops.
The padeye I manufactured myself from stainless so can't offer a supplier.

shemandr · Sep 17, 2019

How do you handle the sheets? I assume that while sailing upwind the redundant sail's sheet has to be trimmed on the leeward side too. Maybe it can be routed to the secondary winch thru a block - where? Or is that what the padeye is for? Do you use this configuration sailing ddw with the main up? Doesn't the main kill one of the jibs?

Tipsynippertoo · Sep 17, 2019

Sailing upwind is just the same, even though you have a single sheet on each sail. The windward sheet is just left slack. The clew of the redundant sail will sometimes "show" a little, it depends on the friction in your system.
I will sometimes have the main out tight and slightly windward to help guide the wind into the split Jibs if the wind is really light and I am trying to "gather" as much wind as I can. Typically downwind in 8kts with one Jib I will make 3kts, with both 4kts plus.