As we round the mark and prep for downwind, we should ease off the backstay correct?
If so how much?
Thanks
If so how much?
Thanks
Downwind, ease the backstay?
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Backstay
My simple answer would be "yes" and "all the way". I seem to remember that when DC was sailing a CF27 in PHRF in San Diego, one of the complaints from his competition was that he had completely removed the fixed backstay. I have seen masts raked radically forward on some racers on the downwind leg, using runners, I assume.
My simple answer would be "yes" and "all the way". I seem to remember that when DC was sailing a CF27 in PHRF in San Diego, one of the complaints from his competition was that he had completely removed the fixed backstay. I have seen masts raked radically forward on some racers on the downwind leg, using runners, I assume.
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Why?
We don’t have a backstay so we can’t ease it, but maybe we could do something that would give similar results, what ever they are.
We don’t have a backstay so we can’t ease it, but maybe we could do something that would give similar results, what ever they are.
Releasing the backstay completely reshapes the poled out jib. I think the C-22 racing handbook calls for a full three feet of forward mast movement. The term is "maximum headsail sag". I don't think the spinnaker class can do that except in a really light breeze.
At least you have a backstay. That is a good thing. If you are racing a Star boat you don't want to ease your backstays (upper and lower running backstays) too much or you will lose your rig. For performance it is a good idea to also ease your outhaul and your halyard (or cunningham).
There are a few more things to consider, which include the two items suggested by Barnacle Bill. First of all, sailing dead down wind is the slowest way to sail down wind. In So Ca that is the point of sail when most beer can racers break out the beer and sandwiches. In my case, that point of sail was when I go to work. On boats that I was on that were middle to back of the pack I broke the race legs into individual segments. It is one way to relieve the frustration that you're a long way from first, second or third. If we did well on a given leg it was a win and a accomplishment.
We always did well on the downwind leg even though I hate that leg. Some races such as Newport to Ensenada, Redondo Beach to Long Beach and Long Beach to Dana Point were all down hill and while I never really looked forward to them we always did well mainly due to the fact we NEVER sailed DDW and even with a poor start we were able to easily pick off boats in front of us because we worked hard at it.
Taking tension off the backstay is only one part of the equation. To obtain maximum power, what little there is of it, you have to ease the halyard/cunningham and outhaul as indicated by Barnacle Bill plus a couple of more things. You want to use a "light" boom vang. By that I mean you want to use just enough vang to prevent the boom from rising. The Garhauer Rigid vang makes this proceedure a piece of cake. It isn't that easy with a soft vang and that is due to the poor pulling angle. Next you want the boom to be almost touching the shrouds. You want the top batten to be parallel to the boom. Also, don't forget the all important preventer. There is nothing worse than having the boom come flying back across the boat. It only takes a simple steering mistake by the boat driver for that to happen.
One other thing that mates forget is crew position. The idea is to keep the boat flat and by positioning your crew in the middle of the boat between the mast and the end of the cabin top helps you achieve that goal.
We always did well on the downwind leg even though I hate that leg. Some races such as Newport to Ensenada, Redondo Beach to Long Beach and Long Beach to Dana Point were all down hill and while I never really looked forward to them we always did well mainly due to the fact we NEVER sailed DDW and even with a poor start we were able to easily pick off boats in front of us because we worked hard at it.
Taking tension off the backstay is only one part of the equation. To obtain maximum power, what little there is of it, you have to ease the halyard/cunningham and outhaul as indicated by Barnacle Bill plus a couple of more things. You want to use a "light" boom vang. By that I mean you want to use just enough vang to prevent the boom from rising. The Garhauer Rigid vang makes this proceedure a piece of cake. It isn't that easy with a soft vang and that is due to the poor pulling angle. Next you want the boom to be almost touching the shrouds. You want the top batten to be parallel to the boom. Also, don't forget the all important preventer. There is nothing worse than having the boom come flying back across the boat. It only takes a simple steering mistake by the boat driver for that to happen.
One other thing that mates forget is crew position. The idea is to keep the boat flat and by positioning your crew in the middle of the boat between the mast and the end of the cabin top helps you achieve that goal.
Don - Speaking of Down Hilll Sailing, I am looking to add a spinaker and pole to my Catalina 30 MKIII standard rig. I have never had a boat with one, and am a little intimidated by the set up. Currently I do not have any rigging for it. Can you, or anyone here, give me some guidence concerning halyard location, mast track or not, topping lift etc...
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Hal: There are a bunch of guys on this forum that can help you with suggestions.
Spinnakers and poles are not my bag on my boat but I have raced many times with them. The reason I did not bother with that stuff on my boat was because the beginners to intermediates I generally deal with have difficulty, at first, just understanding the jib!!
Spinnakers and poles are not my bag on my boat but I have raced many times with them. The reason I did not bother with that stuff on my boat was because the beginners to intermediates I generally deal with have difficulty, at first, just understanding the jib!!
Hal,
Do you intend to race or cruise ?
Racing gets more complicated with the spinnaker because of the mark roundings. Cruising is easier because you are not rushed.
Harken has a couple of good guides to spinnaker stuff.
http://www.harken.com/rigtips/spinnaker.php
Here is another good page
http://www.yachtracersonline.com/spin.htm
Don't bother with a track on the mast, unless you want to race.
You will need
1) spinnaker halyard, must be above the foreguy
2) pole and mast ring/track
3) topping lift, which can be a spare jib halyard
4) foreguy/downhaul
5) spinnaker sheets.
6) blocks on the aft quarters of the boat for the spin sheets.
If you want to learn fast, find a race boat near you to go crew for. What specific questions do you have ?
If you don't intend to race a cruising spinnaker that tacks down to the bow provides 80% of the performance for 20% of the work.
Do you intend to race or cruise ?
Racing gets more complicated with the spinnaker because of the mark roundings. Cruising is easier because you are not rushed.
Harken has a couple of good guides to spinnaker stuff.
http://www.harken.com/rigtips/spinnaker.php
Here is another good page
http://www.yachtracersonline.com/spin.htm
Don't bother with a track on the mast, unless you want to race.
You will need
1) spinnaker halyard, must be above the foreguy
2) pole and mast ring/track
3) topping lift, which can be a spare jib halyard
4) foreguy/downhaul
5) spinnaker sheets.
6) blocks on the aft quarters of the boat for the spin sheets.
If you want to learn fast, find a race boat near you to go crew for. What specific questions do you have ?
If you don't intend to race a cruising spinnaker that tacks down to the bow provides 80% of the performance for 20% of the work.
Todd
Thanks for the good advice. I do intend to do some local low stress (haha) racing. I think you have answered most of my questions. Just trying to figure out the required blocks etc... The sites you referenced were good, although i think the Harken site is really tryin to sell a lot of equipment that i might not need.
Hal
Thanks for the good advice. I do intend to do some local low stress (haha) racing. I think you have answered most of my questions. Just trying to figure out the required blocks etc... The sites you referenced were good, although i think the Harken site is really tryin to sell a lot of equipment that i might not need.
Hal
Harken does want to sell blocks, of course 
But their "Standard Sheets", is about the least you can get away with. You might leave out the twings until later, but they really help control the spinnaker.
Low stess racing is easy (if you don't HAVE to win). Just take the spinnaker down early at the leeward mark. And practice.
But their "Standard Sheets", is about the least you can get away with. You might leave out the twings until later, but they really help control the spinnaker.Low stess racing is easy (if you don't HAVE to win). Just take the spinnaker down early at the leeward mark. And practice.
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