Weinie
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To understand twist more correctly one has consider not only what the sail is 'doing' but also what the air is doing as it moves around (gets out of the way of) the sail ... and the 'anomalies' that are caused TO the wind BY the sail ... just because the sail is 'there' and the wind has to move 'aside' to get around the sail.
It is quite true that the closer the air is measured to the 'ground' (or any other surface) the slower the air will be that surface - all caused by friction. However, 'triangular' (pointy top sail) shapes have a 'special problem' .... at the very top of the sail (head) there will be an invisible 'rotor' following and just behind at the very top of the sail .... if you could see it it would look like a small 'horizontal tornado' following behind the sail at the very top !!!!!! The 'pointier' the sail the larger the 'following rotor'. If you notice the modern FLAT-top sails, such as being raced in the current americas cup or other match racing events you will notice that these 'flat top' sails have very little 'twist' (and if you could see it that 'rotor' following the top of the sail would be greatly reduced for a 'flat top' ... will we be seeing 'winglets' at the tops of sails soon?).
Also, The faster the boat is going and the faster the wind is blowing, less 'twist' is needed.
Secondly, the larger the 'cord length' (distance between luff or leading edge and leech / trailing edged) the more 'upwash' in front of the sail - the 'upwash' is the wind 'that is getting out of the way of the sail just because the sail is "there"'. The longer the cord length of the sail the more the 'upwash' ... so the bottom of the sail produces more upwash (sail can operate at a higher angle of attack) than the top of the sail --- then on top of all this, add the 'slow down' friction as you get near the bottom of the sail and you need to have the sail 'twisted', especially at the slower boat speeds and slower wind speeds, .... less so at the higher boat/wind speeds. All this is in respect to getting the 'most efficiency' out of the sail.
Twisting-off to reduce sail efficiency, to obtain reduced heel is an entirely different concept ... safety - so that the boat doesnt 'go over'.
For simplicity, when attempting to get the 'most' out of a sail, you can easily visualize the tell tales at the luff, midcord, and especially the leech.
For setting the correct amount of twist - Once the luff tell tales on both sides are flying 'perfect', then notice the leech tell tales and if the leech tales are not streaming 'straight back' then the 'twist' is incorrect for the present wind speed and boat speed.
If the leech tales are going 'forward' onto/on the leeward side of the leech then that
section of the sail has its angle-of-attack us too great and should be 'opened'/lessened by releasing slightly the mainsheet and easing the traveller towards leeward, etc. ... until the leech tell tale (in that section of the sail only) goes straight back. You will most probably have to make several adjustments of mainsheet tension and traveller position until the sail is correctly twisted and ALL the leech tell tales are flying straight back.
Note: in sail design especially in the 12-15 kt. range and if the sail was *correctly raised* with correct luff/halyard tension you shouldnt have to make such twist adjustment as the sailmaker probably already designed-in the correct amount of expected twist into the sail for the traveller ON the centerline and with the proper amount of mainsheet tension. (
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=120970)
In contrast, If the windward leech tales are 'unstable' AND the leeward side are 'unstable' (and the very top of the sail may be 'luffing/shaking'), then the amount of 'twist' is too great ... and the mainsheet/vang should be addtionaly tensioned and the traveller is set too close to the centerline or above the centerline and should be 'eased' a bit and/or the mainsheet tightened up a bit.
To get all this 'straight', just watch the leech tell tales and do whatever it takes by mainsheet tension and traveller position to ensure that ALL the leech tales are flying 'straight back' (but the 'aft end' of the boom NEVER goes above/beyond the centerline). When 'beating' usually leech portion of the second from the top batten will be or should be parallel with the boats centerline at between 12-15kts. .... and all the leech tell tales are flying 'perfect' or 'straight back'.
Ditto with the jib/genoa, but of course on most boats you will not have a 'traveller' on the jib controls so just do the best you can with fairlead fore/aft position and jibsheet tension ... but get those jib leech tell tales flying 'straight back'.
hope this helps
;-)