looks like on a Cherubini designed 33 after removal of the teak-holly sole ? I am trying to understand the support system underneath the flooring. thanks.
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My question too!
I'll pile on to your question Jeff. My teak and holly is pretty well ruined after all these years. I'm looking to replace it with a vinyl product from Lonseal-- they make the imitation teak and holly that is used on all the new production boats these days (Hunter and Catalina included). This vinyl is a) cheaper than real teak & holly b) inherently non-skid c) very realistic looking d)easier to install e) longer wearing. Which is why many new boats have this flooring standard. Anyway, back to the story. I've been wondering the same as you Jeff! When I remove the flooring (which on my boat is 3-16" - 1/2" wood) what am I going to find underneath? I can see where there are screw holes in certain areas, but I've about convinced myself there is a complete liner underneath. I'm having a hard time believing the liner isn't complete in sections and the flooring provides structural support. At least I sure hope so. If no one answers then I'll be undertaking this project in the fall, and I'll let you know what I find. There are pictures in the Photo Forum of someone who removed the floor in their Cherubini 37 and their liner was complete underneath all the teak and holly pieces. In that example, the floor was screwed in certain places and adhesive was used everywhere else. Chris.................
I'll pile on to your question Jeff. My teak and holly is pretty well ruined after all these years. I'm looking to replace it with a vinyl product from Lonseal-- they make the imitation teak and holly that is used on all the new production boats these days (Hunter and Catalina included). This vinyl is a) cheaper than real teak & holly b) inherently non-skid c) very realistic looking d)easier to install e) longer wearing. Which is why many new boats have this flooring standard. Anyway, back to the story. I've been wondering the same as you Jeff! When I remove the flooring (which on my boat is 3-16" - 1/2" wood) what am I going to find underneath? I can see where there are screw holes in certain areas, but I've about convinced myself there is a complete liner underneath. I'm having a hard time believing the liner isn't complete in sections and the flooring provides structural support. At least I sure hope so. If no one answers then I'll be undertaking this project in the fall, and I'll let you know what I find. There are pictures in the Photo Forum of someone who removed the floor in their Cherubini 37 and their liner was complete underneath all the teak and holly pieces. In that example, the floor was screwed in certain places and adhesive was used everywhere else. Chris.................
H-33 cabin sole
Jeff --- Last year as part of a pretty complete refit of my 1980 H-33, I removed the cabin sole. The top floor material is of plywood construction faced with teak and holly. Seemed about 3/8" thick. I sanded and varnished the surface which made it look very nice. It had been held in place with adhesive between the plywood sheeting and the floor surface which is gelcoat. The floor is like a pan covering the whole surface. As I remember it required quite a bit of work to get the gelcoated floor smooth and free of the old adhesive. There is also curvature to the floor especially forward near the v-bunks. This makes it hard to get the wood to stay flat against the floor. I ended up using some sacks of sand to hold the wood in place until the adhesive set up. It came out looking very nice with these two negatives: Sometimes it squeeks when you step in cetain places; it is fairly slippery with wet bare feet because of the varnished surface. I use some small rubber backed rugs for this. My advice is that my method is too labor intensive; pick another solution. good luck, Henry
Jeff --- Last year as part of a pretty complete refit of my 1980 H-33, I removed the cabin sole. The top floor material is of plywood construction faced with teak and holly. Seemed about 3/8" thick. I sanded and varnished the surface which made it look very nice. It had been held in place with adhesive between the plywood sheeting and the floor surface which is gelcoat. The floor is like a pan covering the whole surface. As I remember it required quite a bit of work to get the gelcoated floor smooth and free of the old adhesive. There is also curvature to the floor especially forward near the v-bunks. This makes it hard to get the wood to stay flat against the floor. I ended up using some sacks of sand to hold the wood in place until the adhesive set up. It came out looking very nice with these two negatives: Sometimes it squeeks when you step in cetain places; it is fairly slippery with wet bare feet because of the varnished surface. I use some small rubber backed rugs for this. My advice is that my method is too labor intensive; pick another solution. good luck, Henry
thanks Chris
For steering me to the picture archives. After seeing the pics and hearing from Kevin from Sarasota regarding his 'sole' experiences with his 33'and his findings essentially mirror the the findings of a 37', I think that I will probably go ahead and plan to pull the old teak-holly flooring up and replace with new. I had thought about just laying the new flooring over the over, but with a solid glas floor base, it doesn't make much since not to start afresh.
For steering me to the picture archives. After seeing the pics and hearing from Kevin from Sarasota regarding his 'sole' experiences with his 33'and his findings essentially mirror the the findings of a 37', I think that I will probably go ahead and plan to pull the old teak-holly flooring up and replace with new. I had thought about just laying the new flooring over the over, but with a solid glas floor base, it doesn't make much since not to start afresh.
Lonseal Specialty: Imitation Teak and Holly
A couple ways to contact / purchase Lonseal products. a) defender.com. Defender carries the most popular style of imitation teak & holly flooring. Much cheaper than Plasteak (plasteak.com). b) I contacted the Lonseal factory direct to order samples. Their teak and holly products are located on their specialty website: www.lonsealspecialty.com/product-marine.html. Notice that they have several varieties, including high gloss and cinnamon. I also like the Lonwood Natural and Dakota lines, in fact, I'm probably going to replace my teak and holly with Lonwood Dakota 78 Amber because it is lighter and it will contrast better with the dark wood of the cabinetry. They ship samples to you promptly via Fed Ex. This is not your cheapo vinyl flooring-- the price is high (compared to vinyl kitchen flooring at Home Depot), but in my opinion it is well worth it-- it is a very realistic product and boats don't need very much of it. I have been pleasantly astounded by this product, which is rare in the marine industry. The sample shipper sent me an email telling me the samples were on their way and also gave me a name of the local representative. Lonseal only sells through distributors, which are boatyards or chandleries. For me, the representative directed me to my local chandlery (Svendsen's) which already had the popular color / style in their computer. Chris..................
A couple ways to contact / purchase Lonseal products. a) defender.com. Defender carries the most popular style of imitation teak & holly flooring. Much cheaper than Plasteak (plasteak.com). b) I contacted the Lonseal factory direct to order samples. Their teak and holly products are located on their specialty website: www.lonsealspecialty.com/product-marine.html. Notice that they have several varieties, including high gloss and cinnamon. I also like the Lonwood Natural and Dakota lines, in fact, I'm probably going to replace my teak and holly with Lonwood Dakota 78 Amber because it is lighter and it will contrast better with the dark wood of the cabinetry. They ship samples to you promptly via Fed Ex. This is not your cheapo vinyl flooring-- the price is high (compared to vinyl kitchen flooring at Home Depot), but in my opinion it is well worth it-- it is a very realistic product and boats don't need very much of it. I have been pleasantly astounded by this product, which is rare in the marine industry. The sample shipper sent me an email telling me the samples were on their way and also gave me a name of the local representative. Lonseal only sells through distributors, which are boatyards or chandleries. For me, the representative directed me to my local chandlery (Svendsen's) which already had the popular color / style in their computer. Chris..................
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