Do it yourself rigging?

[Allen]

My C-30 needs a new backstay (and next year will need the rest of the standing rigging replaced). I'm toying with the idea of doing it myself. My main fear is that the terminals at the end of the stays will "pop out".Does anybody know how to fasten the ends on? I've seen the screw on types, but for really heavy duty use will that be enough? How do the other non-screw type ends attach permanently to the cable? I've got 1/4" 1x19 stainless cables.Thanks in advance.Allen Schweitzers/v DrambuieHull # 632

 

[Terrence Connelly]

Backstay

You should call Catalina Direct for any of the parts you need. I just replaced all my standing rigging myself (after a rigging guy took the mast off for the winter). It is not a difficult task. That said, I had the rigging guy inspect everything for me before he put the mast back on. The backstay attaches to two tabs on the top of the transom. Mine are attached with two screws and sealed the 5200.

 

[John Visser]

Rigging terminals

I've done all of the standing rigging on m C-36. Initially I used a new standing rigging set from Catalina with machine swaged terminals. Unfortunately, the shrouds were all too long. I remade them with Sta-Lok fittings. After much research on the topic, I have found two important things:1. On rigs such as the C-36 with sheet metal tangs attaching the shrouds to the mast, in order to ensure a straight pull through the fittings to the wire, they should be toggled. Catalina apparently doesn't do this. I added eye-jaw toggles to all of the shrouds. 2. Ssta-Lok fittings are every bit as strong as machine swaged, and are actually superior, for three reasons:a. they can be opened up to inspect for corrosion.b. they drain, so corrosion is much less likely. c. they are reuseable, with a new wedge ($3.00 each).I installed them myself. It is easy to do, and one gets comfortable after doing two of them. Get some scrap wire and some spare wedges and practice a couple of times. Always use Loctite Blue (242), as a thread lube and locker; this is most important to prevent galling of the threads, which stainless/stainless will do.Rigging Only has the best prices and best service (same day shipping) that I've found.

 

[Richard]

Rigging Only

Send your old backstay to them. They'll use your old as a pattern for a new. Nice folks, easy to talk to, great prices....(unlike my experience with CD)

 

[Travers B. Tapper]

DIY rigging

I recently replaced all the standing rigging on my C30. I used commercially installed upper marine eyes (swaged on, just like the factory) and used StaLoc fittings on the bottom.If installed properly they are superior in strength to swages and are stronger than the wire itself. Big plus is they are reusable if new cones are installed.The benefit of having one end installed and the other left bare is that you can order the length slightly longer and you can do one stay/shroud at a time.You need to be fairly "mechanical" and have a way to cut up to 1/4 ss cable, not really an easy thing. I used a Dremel with the reinforced cutting wheels and it was really easy.You also must be capable of following instructions. I would not suggest making "improvements" on my own StaLoc has been around for years and are pretty close to perfect reliability if done correctly.This was the most satisfactory mod I made to my old (very old 0088) C30. I am absolutely confident of my rig now. I also replaced the notorious "eye bolts" with Wichard U bolts and reinforced the bulkheads and knees in the hull. I went as far as to make adjustable tie rods that attach the L brackets under the deck to the hull liner.Of one thing I'm sure my rig is about as sturdy as a C30 can or needs to be made. That give me much comfort when the wind pipes up.Travers Dawn no.0088