Do It Yourself Bottom Cleaning

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Rob McClain

I considering cleaning the bottom of my sailboat myself. I dive with my own gear and with a 34' boat, that would save me about $70 each cleaning. I am curious if others have done this? I would appreciate any tips in terms of proper weighting, the best material to use on the bottom, and anything else.... Thanks! Rob McClain
 
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Alan

Rob,

I've been doing my own cleaning for over 10 years. Scuba is helpful but definatly not necessary. I free dive my 35 footer with wetsuit fins and mask. I dive it every week and it wipes down very easily with a sponge. Of course, if you let it go longer there will be more to clean and it will take much longer. Takes me about 45 minutes. A clean smooth bottom is key to winning.
 
Dec 3, 2003
544
None None Rochester, NY
Suction cups and handle

I bought a handle with two large suction cups attached several years ago at W.M. I could then dive on my boat with just fins and mask, plop the cups to the side of the hull, and hang on as I scrubbed. I now own a better device where I don't even get wet. It is a long scrubber mounted to foam, which is attached to a curved handle. Sorry I can't remember the name of it right now, and it is in my boat under the snow. You can scrub the boat from dock-side or carefully while standing on the deck. Works well. This works for fresh-water scum, but don't know about any sea water problems.
 
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Capt. Marc

Hookah Rig

If you already have scuba, get a 40-50 ft hose, attach it between 1st and 2nd stage. This way you can leave the tank on deck and swim with just the hose and tools. When wearing a wetsuit, I need a few pounds, otherwise you end up wasting effort holding yourself down. DO NOT ADD TOO MUCH WEIGHT!!!! Also get extra O rings for reassembly of your regulator. I use a white BBQ scrub pad (soft) for scrubbing my Trinidad SR painted boat. Wear old gloves to protect yourself from tough banacles and the prop. I also bring down a plastic scraper for prop and tougher barnacles. I use an ice scraper from auto zone (they do sell them in Florida). After one year I get all the Fuzz with the pad. The few barncles come off EZ with the scraper. Check the zincs while you are down there!! Have fun, Marc
 
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tom

It's not as easy as it sounds

but can be done. The problem is staying next to the hull. Also watch your air consumption as you use a lot when scrubing. I have tied a rope to run under the boat to help stay in place . The suction cups sound like a good idea. I usually start with mask ,snorkle and fins and scrub what I can easily reach from the surface and then use scuba for the deeper stuff. It just takes too long to come up breath and then go down scrub 30 seconds and then go back to the surface. With ablative type of paint stuff comes off pretty easily be careful not to scrub off all of your paint. If it is heavily encrusted you might be better off to haul it to clean first then keep it clean by diving. Be careful diving around docks!!!! Stray electrical currents can drown you!!!! Technically you are not electrocuted but the current can paralyse you and you drown. A friends husband drowned near his dock and that may have been what happened. He was an excellent swimmer in good condition and suddenly stopped swimming and drowned before anyone could help. I don't swim around docks with electricity.
 
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Jack Tyler

I second the vote for a Hookah rig...

...as it's inexpensive and very functional when cruising the boat, as well. One only need lower the tank into the dink, and it's also portable (e.g. to recover an anchor). Rob, I doubt you have great viz in Alameda which I find slows me down just a bit. But the list of 'accessories' you were given is all very similar to what I use. WM sells a long white soft scrubbing pad that's very easy on modified epoxy paints (e.g. Trinidad) and covers a good area with each swipe. Don't forget a screwdriver for the thru-hulls. And I also bought a two-part plastic snap or buckle which I attach to my weight belt and to just the right spot on the hose, allowing some play between the attachment point and the regulator. This allows me to pull more hose into the water, or under the hull, from my belt rather than my teeth.<g> In our case, the tank has a permanent home in a sail locker. It never moves (except when being filled) and is always ready when the sun's out and the urge strikes. Given one can set themselves up with this rig for far under $150 (I bought used equipment 8 years ago), it's very cost effective. It's also a neat way to thank a neighbor or meet some nice people, as e.g. when in Horta and offering to check props, clear thru-hulls, etc. on nearby boats. I haven't heard about heavy A/C current posing a lethal threat but it's a good point. (Just when you think you have something figured out...) Checking with one of the local 'regulars' who scrub boats at your marina might be a good idea. Jack
 
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tom

Seaworthy magazine (boatus)

has a discussion of stray electrical currents around marinas. Under galvanic isolators. According to them as little as 5mA of current can endanger a swimmer. It is a bigger danger in freshwater. But maybe even more of a danger in a bay where you can have freshwater floating on top of saltwater. I once rented a slip where the dock would shock you when it was raining. The lights would flicker and if you touched the light fixture with wet shoes on the metal deck you got a shock. This dock was kinda run down but slips were very cheap.
 
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