Hi all - I’d like to be able to lock down my tiller for short durations (a minute or two at most) when I single-hand my ‘68 Javelin and no matter what DIY solution I try, nothing seems to work for more than a few moments. If I’m close hauled I almost immediately start drifting into the wind and if on a reach, away from the wind. Complicating factors: on a fairly shallow bay, often can’t have the centerboard down more than 3/4 way (or even less); lots of houses around that make consistency of wind direction near shore (which is when I’m usually looking to be hands free for a minute or two, on the way out or way in). Any thoughts from the more experienced hands? Should I just give up on this idea?
DIY tiller tamer fails (‘68 Javelin)
- Thread starter Philly2DC2LBI
- Start date
Have you considered a Tiller Tamer?
www.davisinstruments.com
Tiller-Tamer™ - SKU 2205
Maintains cruising course with no hands, in any weather or wind condition. The tension is smoothly adjustable from fully locked to fully free. Tiller-Tamer gives improved control and feel to the tiller handle. Does not interfere with automatic steering systems. No loss of cockpit space. No need...
www.davisinstruments.com
Good point! Maybe I should try the real thing before I give up. I have just been doing DIY solutions because I wanted to avoid spending the money and drilling holes in my tiller.
Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and let go of some of those hard-earned $$$. 
I like the Tiller Tamer brand because it's adjustable for drag. some are just either on or off but I like to maintain a small amount of drag all the time.
Thanks Jviss!
And thanks RussC! I feel like drag is definitely a factor.
Do you think it will work if I run it from the two aft blocks atop the the transom port and starboard that the older model javelins had for the Crosby rigging (I shifted to mid boom sheet)? Maybe I can get away with only putting holes in the tiller? I have read that ideally the (real) tiller tamer is mounted on the bottom of the tiller which I think would mean adding blocks at a lower height.
And thanks RussC! I feel like drag is definitely a factor.
Do you think it will work if I run it from the two aft blocks atop the the transom port and starboard that the older model javelins had for the Crosby rigging (I shifted to mid boom sheet)? Maybe I can get away with only putting holes in the tiller? I have read that ideally the (real) tiller tamer is mounted on the bottom of the tiller which I think would mean adding blocks at a lower height.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 21,195
I used the Tiller Clutch.
I found it simple to use. Effective at holding a tiller position. Often times when I drifted, it was due to poor sail balance/wind gust/currents/waves all of which needed to be corrected by a hand on the tiller.
Best DIY tool was surgical tubing.
I found it simple to use. Effective at holding a tiller position. Often times when I drifted, it was due to poor sail balance/wind gust/currents/waves all of which needed to be corrected by a hand on the tiller.
Best DIY tool was surgical tubing.
Thanks! That’s essentially what I DIY’d with a bike seat quick release. It just won’t hold the course. Re: surgical tubing I tried something similar with bungees but that’s even worse than a line clipped into place. I wonder whether it’s because when I need it is when I am sailing in and lots of houses on the shore play havoc with the wind direction.
I have one. I was hesitant to drill as well but this turned out to be one of the best things I've ever bought for a boat. Worth every penny and then some
On my tiller boats, I used a good piece of nylon dock line that was looped over one stern cleat ran across the cockpit with three turns around the tiller and was stretched and cleated to the other stern cleat. Because nylon is stretchy, this would make a friction connection to the tiller. I set the tension so that it would hold the tiller in place but allow me to move it if needed. It also had a very high degree of fine adjustment to make micro adjustments to the position of the tiller by grabbing the three turns around the tiller and twisting them (like adjusting the throttle on an outboard).
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 21,195
I used surgical tubing to center the tiller. Tension the tubing. Then balance the sails. I had my 15ft Montgomery sailing in a straight line across the bay. I could alter direction be moving my weight on the boat. It was great.
That's how I steered my O'day 25 when I went to the mast. I shifted my weight to steer.
Thanks - I think my next attempt is tubing (or bungees); wrapped rope isn't working.
I might have to try this (sounds similar to the tubing or bungee idea).
What is it about the wrapped rope that doesn't work?
I always used a newish 3/8" nylon line so that had a good deal of stretch. I would then go across the cockpit with the three turns and stretch it tight and cleat it. On one of my boats, the cleats were not in the right place, so I went from the cleat, forward around the front stanchion of the pushpit and across to the same point on the other side. The line needs to be in a straight line across the cockpit with no deflection at the tiller or it will slide forward or back and loosen the tension that you use for friction.
You might give it another try and post a photo of your setup.
Interesting, Hayden - I had tried straight across, but the boat still either moved away from the wind or round up into it. With a rope wrapped around the tiller, everything I found online said to have the line run from the transom on either side up to the tiller and wrapped, something like a 45 degree angle, making a 90 degree angle at the tiller. The point was supposed to be that you could slide the wrap up and down a bit to try to find the right balance point. Maybe I will try straight across again.
I'll give it another shot and post a picture when I'm on the water over the weekend! Thanks for the advice!