Dirty Prop - Clean Prop
- Thread starter Jim Seamans
- Start date
Used a grinder with a fine wire cup brush, then a fine scotch pad in my drill to polish it off.
Keeping it clean is another matter. So far over the years nothing seems to last very long to keep it maybe clean. Waiting on Crazy Dave who says he has a working solution.... Dave where are you.... Get out of the ditch..
Keeping it clean is another matter. So far over the years nothing seems to last very long to keep it maybe clean. Waiting on Crazy Dave who says he has a working solution.... Dave where are you.... Get out of the ditch..
The prop looks fantastic Jim !
We have an Autostream feathering prop on our boat, we seem to get very little fouling on it. It's stainless steel, I'm wondering that could make a difference ?
Bob
We have an Autostream feathering prop on our boat, we seem to get very little fouling on it. It's stainless steel, I'm wondering that could make a difference ?
Bob
just a tip here ...if you use a ss wire cup brush you will get better results in the initial cleaning as the bronzes prop is a non ferrous metal ....a plan steel cup brush will not do as good on the out come and yes by all means us a fine not medium or coarse brush the iron brush will create rust deposits on the prop
Cleaning a prop is quite easily done with muriatic acid and then polishing. Muriatic acid is very dangerous to work with but the results are spectacular. Read up on safely using the product before you even buy it, as it may change your mind.
We are going to try greasing our prop if we intend to stay in an anchorage for more than a few weeks to see if it helps keep the growth down, but obviously as soon as you use the prop the grease will be gone. So far the new prop paints have been a miserable failure, even when professionally applied.Perhaps they work if you never use the boat.
Over the years I've tried lots of prop and running gear antifoulings with absolutely zero success, including chroming props. Save your money for a periodic diver.
We are going to try greasing our prop if we intend to stay in an anchorage for more than a few weeks to see if it helps keep the growth down, but obviously as soon as you use the prop the grease will be gone. So far the new prop paints have been a miserable failure, even when professionally applied.Perhaps they work if you never use the boat.
Over the years I've tried lots of prop and running gear antifoulings with absolutely zero success, including chroming props. Save your money for a periodic diver.
Muriatic Acid = Hydrochloric Acid (HCl) = stomach acid.
Use it in a dilute form, anything less than 1 Molar (3%) is like getting thrown up on)...
I've always wanted to use this little vomit icon... he he he..
The concentrated stuff is very dangerous if you get it near a base or around vinegar.