Has anyone made modifications to a 240 to redirect the lines that terminate at the mast end of the boom and lead them into the cockpit - to you need to put reinforcing into the deck where you add the extra hardware? Also, I am considering replacing the rather ineffective jib cleats with spinlock jammers (I think they are called) I have read the earlier articles on this but can anyone who has done the job tell me if the existing holes for the original cleats will line up with the new ones? Thanks from the UK! Doug
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Mark Cooper
Lines aft and jib cleats
To answer your first question, all of the lines on my 240 are already led aft, including the boom vang. If you have any more to lead aft, the cabin top seems to have an inner core of aluminum, so it shouldn't be any problem. As for the spinlocks, I highly recommend them. The holes do not line up, though. The spinlocks mount in two parts - a front and back. Use the sternmost holes from the existing cleats to mount the back part of the spinlock cleats. Then slide the front part into place, mark and drill the holes. Access for putting on the bolts and tightening them is gained through the panels inside the cabin. Then fill the hole where the old cleat went. I filled it with 5200 and then used a screw and bolt to make it weather tight. I love the spinlock cleats. Much easier to use. A note though, you might consider raising the cleats an inch or so with teak as someone did here on the forum. Depending on where you are sitting, the cleats can sometimes be difficult to set.
To answer your first question, all of the lines on my 240 are already led aft, including the boom vang. If you have any more to lead aft, the cabin top seems to have an inner core of aluminum, so it shouldn't be any problem. As for the spinlocks, I highly recommend them. The holes do not line up, though. The spinlocks mount in two parts - a front and back. Use the sternmost holes from the existing cleats to mount the back part of the spinlock cleats. Then slide the front part into place, mark and drill the holes. Access for putting on the bolts and tightening them is gained through the panels inside the cabin. Then fill the hole where the old cleat went. I filled it with 5200 and then used a screw and bolt to make it weather tight. I love the spinlock cleats. Much easier to use. A note though, you might consider raising the cleats an inch or so with teak as someone did here on the forum. Depending on where you are sitting, the cleats can sometimes be difficult to set.
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Clyde
See Hunter Photo Forum...
There are 4 pictures on cam cleats replacing the existing cleats on the 240, its shown on the Hunter photo/project forum. Based on the pictures and installation information, you have to raise the cam cleats to get the right angle with a riser. See the attached link. Fair winds. Clyde
There are 4 pictures on cam cleats replacing the existing cleats on the 240, its shown on the Hunter photo/project forum. Based on the pictures and installation information, you have to raise the cam cleats to get the right angle with a riser. See the attached link. Fair winds. Clyde
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Al
lines to cockpit
Since we have a RF, I took the jib haylard that already runs to the cockpit and put it to work. I ran it to a block I put on the mast base and up to the reefing hook on the main sail. Also, I ran the reefing line (that comes out at the mast end of the boom and hauls down the leech of the main at the reef point clew) down to another block attached to the mast base plate and over to the unused horizontal block and back to a cleat next to the spinlocks. With this setup I can reef the main without having to go up to the mast: I lower the main just below the reef point, tighten up the "jib haylard" so the reef point on the luff is a couple of inches below the hook, tighten up on the reef line that is no led aft, and then tighen up themain haylard. This was done on an 2001 H260, I don't know if it can be set on an H240 this way...
Since we have a RF, I took the jib haylard that already runs to the cockpit and put it to work. I ran it to a block I put on the mast base and up to the reefing hook on the main sail. Also, I ran the reefing line (that comes out at the mast end of the boom and hauls down the leech of the main at the reef point clew) down to another block attached to the mast base plate and over to the unused horizontal block and back to a cleat next to the spinlocks. With this setup I can reef the main without having to go up to the mast: I lower the main just below the reef point, tighten up the "jib haylard" so the reef point on the luff is a couple of inches below the hook, tighten up on the reef line that is no led aft, and then tighen up themain haylard. This was done on an 2001 H260, I don't know if it can be set on an H240 this way...
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Crazy Dave Condon
shims
suggest using shims to direct the flow of the line exiting the powercleat so when you pull the line it will bring it down. Crazy Dave Condon
suggest using shims to direct the flow of the line exiting the powercleat so when you pull the line it will bring it down. Crazy Dave Condon
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Rick Webb
I Did It a While Ago on My 23.5
I added a pice of teak under the PX cleats and on mine the holes did line up. The problem was the screws that held on the jam cleats were 1/4 inch ones and the PX cleats are designed fora metric screws size which I could not find here and I took my Dremel Tool to the cleat to make them work That should not be a prblem for you over there though. There are photos of mine in the Photo Forum somwhere.
I added a pice of teak under the PX cleats and on mine the holes did line up. The problem was the screws that held on the jam cleats were 1/4 inch ones and the PX cleats are designed fora metric screws size which I could not find here and I took my Dremel Tool to the cleat to make them work That should not be a prblem for you over there though. There are photos of mine in the Photo Forum somwhere.
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Brad Amundson
Spinlock Cleats for the Jib
They come with adaptor plates for about 5 dollars a piece and I highly recommend this improvement. Should have done it last year. I hope this helps they are found at West Marine the whole package came to about 80.00 or so. North Bound
They come with adaptor plates for about 5 dollars a piece and I highly recommend this improvement. Should have done it last year. I hope this helps they are found at West Marine the whole package came to about 80.00 or so. North Bound
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