differences between connectors

Jul 8, 2011
704
Catalina 30 Sidney B.C.
your second picture shows the reciever end encased in plastic so when they are joined they are reasonably protected from the elements and will not short on something
 
Jan 22, 2008
296
Islander Freeport, 41 Ketch Longmont, CO
The first appears to be the more common aluminum connector. The bottom is pure tinned pure copper connector - much higher quality and less prone to corrosion in a marine environment. If your doing the whole job this is where the money needs to go since its the quality of the connections you make that will determine the reliability of the electronics you connect.

Look through this forum an almost every place that electronics are discussed there are references to "checking the wiring", "check the ground", etc..... tinned copper not only conducts better bet will last longer than aluminum.
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
as Jean s/v Pfoumf said, the second picture has the plug in end covered with plastic to prevent the wires from shorting out if it should touch another wire or some grounded metal.
but also, the two different colors are for different size wires and they will both be made from tinned over copper material, they are both adhesive lined meaning if you use a heat to shrink the plastic to the wire after crimping, the adhesive will soften and fill any voids inside to connection to prevent moisture from getting in and corroding the connection.... they are both quality connectors...

as to the price difference, it may be the quantities they are being sold in, but also some manufactures, wholesalers or retailers are just more expensive for the same item....
 
Mar 14, 2007
88
S2 9.2A Seattle, WA
Why are you using disconnect type connectors?
This is what I have learned about the mechanics of electrical wiring. Use ring terminals, wire from terminal block to terminal block or to the component, do NOT splice wire, do not use quick disconnects because they will, use marine grade terminals and terminal blocks, keep the wire out of contact with water.
I use a ratchet type crimper, coat the bare wire with KOPR-Sheild made by Thomas & Betts and then use about 1 1/4" of Ancor heat shrink.
Check the web site for Marinco, specifically the Ancor Marine section for terminals.
The trade names I have used are what are available where I live in the Northwest USA. Other products are available in other parts of the world that are just as good. My point is to use the best products and techniques you can.

http://www.marinco.com/brand/ancor
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,709
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
FTZ makes a whole line of fully insulated disconnects but I don't think Phil stocks them. They are about half the price of the Ancor/Marinco product and generally considerably better quality and much more consistent. Personally I don't use any Ancor crimp terminals as I find them to be fairly inconsistent in quality across the board.. FTZ is an actual manufacturer of terminals Ancor likely buys from whomever has the cheapest commodity price and packages them up in end user quantities and marks them up accordingly. They do not manufacture terminals or wire they just put a name on it.

I do not and will not use anything but fully insulated friction fit connectors. I generally HATE having to use them but until the ABYC does the right thing and makes them disallowed under E-11 manufacturers will still continue to ship product using friction fit terminals. There are many of us on the ABYC who would love to see them banned from marine priducts. They are one of the most trouble prone connectors in the marine market.

The best advice I can give is to avoid buying electrical products that use friction fit connectors. Sometimes it is impossible but you can always try... Even manufacturers of higher quality product like Blue Sea still ship product with friction fit terminals.

I would strongly urge you to use ring terminals where ever you can. Also I don't feel that it is really worth the extra expense to use crimp-n-seal friction fits because they are by nature exposed to air anyway and there is no way to give them a true seal. Unless you go over the whole thing with adhesive heat shrink in which case you might as well use adhesive lined heat shrink butt splices..
 
Jun 18, 2012
2
Sapo fugue 38 Toulon
Thanks to all for yours answers.
Unfortunately, I've a lot of equipments still working I don't want to change (breaker/switch panel, navigation lights, etc.).
But I'll use busbars, terminal blocks and ring connectors when ever I'll be able to.