My 1981 Hunter with 2 cyl Yanmar diesel has just started to develop a starting issue. I push the starter buttom and there is a delay in it cranking and when it does it cranks slow and then starts. I have checked the following so far: Batteries are both good (removed and load test performed), checked connections on starter swithch and starter, Engine runs fine after it starts, the alt puts out good charging current and all other electrical loads work fine. I am leaning towrds pulling the starter next and or the starter switch. Any ideas???
- Status
First thing I would do
The very first thing I would do, and I have just cured the exact same problem on a 3GM, is to pull every cable and connection. Clean and tighten all connections. Particularly the grounds. Take the cables off the batteries, the block, the battery switch, starter, and anywhere else a battery cable is connected to anything. Clean and tighten. I'll bet a beer that cures your problem.
The very first thing I would do, and I have just cured the exact same problem on a 3GM, is to pull every cable and connection. Clean and tighten all connections. Particularly the grounds. Take the cables off the batteries, the block, the battery switch, starter, and anywhere else a battery cable is connected to anything. Clean and tighten. I'll bet a beer that cures your problem.
Nice N Easy is right I would check all the connections and if that doesn't solve it then the starter or more specifically the starter shaft bushing.
While you will never go wrong cleaning all the connections, this sounds like it could be the old 12 vdc relay issue. See Boat Info>Engines>Yanmar>Starting Issues on this site (http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_mtree&task=listcats&cat_id=1024&Itemid=257). However, the slow cranking when your engine does begin to turn over also suggests that your batteries are not delivering the needed amps. Testing them with a DVM won't tell the full story, they may need to be load tested.
Having the same issues ...
Mine started with the same symptom, weak start. It very quickly, withn a day, developed into no start. My batteries were not fully discharged and I, too, cleaned all the terminals and checked voltage at various points and found no problems. I brought my batteries and starter home. I charged the batts and bench tested the starter by connecting cables from positive to the B post, negative to the case, and touching a start wire from the positive on the batt to the S terminal. The starter spun, so I thought all was well. I've been really busy so I couldn't get back to the boat for a week. Yesterday afternoon, I went back to the boat and reinstalled everything with fully charged batts. I got about 5 clicks and I went below to see what was happening. I had smoke curling around the starter. I only had time to disconnect the batts so that is where I left it. I had dinner with a fireman friend last night and he said if there is only one thing he knows, it is that smoke is not good!
I'm going over now to pull the starter again. I spoke with a parts dept guy at a marina this A.M. and he was not all that helpful except to tell me that a starter will be $370. he also suggested I take the starter to a local shop that can test it so that is what I will do. I will be the first to admit that I am having difficulty tracing this problem. Plus, these systems are not familiar to me and I am having a hard time understanding exactly how the alternator is wired to the battery. It looks like a red #8 wire (or some faily thick wire - definitely not what I would call a cable) is connected with a ring to the B post of the starter, where the battery cable is connected (well, the battery cable actually comes from the selector switch, naturally). I suppose this is the alternator connection to the battery. It's always been a bit of a mystery to me because I could never trace a wire from the altenator to the battery or the switch directly. I don't know if this is the intended or even the correct way to do it since it doesn't really match any diagram that I have ever seen. However, it does appear to be the way it was originally done. It is difficult to trace the wires because there is such a tangle of wires behind the alternater and they are taped together into a sticky mess right now. I'm resolved to pulling it all apart, cleaning everything, and organizing it. That is one of my jobs for today.
Sorry to ramble but I'm having the same issue. The parts guy I spoke with this morning mentioned that it is possible that there is a remote solenoid (not the one that is an appendage to the starter and he called it something that I can't remember right now) that has failed. I don't think my engine has it because it doesn't show up on my engine diagram. Besides, the smoke I saw was curling around the starter. It is possible that your engine may have a remote solenoid that is attached somewhere else on the engine. Maybe somebody else knows what I am talking about because I don't and maybe they have the correct term for it.
The other thing that I wondered about is whether or not there is some sort of alignment thing that needs to be done to the gear mechanism when re-installing the starter. It didn't seem like it, all I had to do was align the 2 bolt holes, insert the bolts and tighten. It seemed to go together pretty seamlessly.
Mine started with the same symptom, weak start. It very quickly, withn a day, developed into no start. My batteries were not fully discharged and I, too, cleaned all the terminals and checked voltage at various points and found no problems. I brought my batteries and starter home. I charged the batts and bench tested the starter by connecting cables from positive to the B post, negative to the case, and touching a start wire from the positive on the batt to the S terminal. The starter spun, so I thought all was well. I've been really busy so I couldn't get back to the boat for a week. Yesterday afternoon, I went back to the boat and reinstalled everything with fully charged batts. I got about 5 clicks and I went below to see what was happening. I had smoke curling around the starter. I only had time to disconnect the batts so that is where I left it. I had dinner with a fireman friend last night and he said if there is only one thing he knows, it is that smoke is not good!
I'm going over now to pull the starter again. I spoke with a parts dept guy at a marina this A.M. and he was not all that helpful except to tell me that a starter will be $370. he also suggested I take the starter to a local shop that can test it so that is what I will do. I will be the first to admit that I am having difficulty tracing this problem. Plus, these systems are not familiar to me and I am having a hard time understanding exactly how the alternator is wired to the battery. It looks like a red #8 wire (or some faily thick wire - definitely not what I would call a cable) is connected with a ring to the B post of the starter, where the battery cable is connected (well, the battery cable actually comes from the selector switch, naturally). I suppose this is the alternator connection to the battery. It's always been a bit of a mystery to me because I could never trace a wire from the altenator to the battery or the switch directly. I don't know if this is the intended or even the correct way to do it since it doesn't really match any diagram that I have ever seen. However, it does appear to be the way it was originally done. It is difficult to trace the wires because there is such a tangle of wires behind the alternater and they are taped together into a sticky mess right now. I'm resolved to pulling it all apart, cleaning everything, and organizing it. That is one of my jobs for today.
Sorry to ramble but I'm having the same issue. The parts guy I spoke with this morning mentioned that it is possible that there is a remote solenoid (not the one that is an appendage to the starter and he called it something that I can't remember right now) that has failed. I don't think my engine has it because it doesn't show up on my engine diagram. Besides, the smoke I saw was curling around the starter. It is possible that your engine may have a remote solenoid that is attached somewhere else on the engine. Maybe somebody else knows what I am talking about because I don't
and maybe they have the correct term for it.The other thing that I wondered about is whether or not there is some sort of alignment thing that needs to be done to the gear mechanism when re-installing the starter. It didn't seem like it, all I had to do was align the 2 bolt holes, insert the bolts and tighten. It seemed to go together pretty seamlessly.
Starter woes and wires
Texas lake sailor
while you are checking connections don't forget about the two inside the starter solenoid. The solenoid connections transmit the high current from the batter to the starter. You can tell if things are going south in that area by noting the occasional slow/no starter. If you try it again it will probably work fine. A bit of explanation; the connections inside the solenoid are completed by a circular contact. Two posts to the outside and a circular conductor that is pulled into them by the solenoid magnet. The magnet is what the starter switch controls BTW. Every time the solenoid is engaged it gets a few degrees of turn which exposes a fresh section of the circular conductor to the two posts. Over time the circular post can get burned spots (high resistance) that can cause slow/no starter. Hit the switch another time and a new section of circular conductor gets used and no problem.
As for alternator-starter-battery+ wiring, the manufacturer is trying to cut cost at every turn. He has kids to send to college too. Since he already has to run a large cable from the battery + to the starter AND the starter is in close proximity to the alternator, why not use the starter cable to connect the alternator to the battery. So they run a smaller cable to the starter + post. The smaller cable is OK because the alternator produces less amps then the starter uses. The alternator to starter cable only has to handle the max alt output. The starter cable can handle the charging current due to its being designed for more current to support the stater.
alternator + to starter + to battery+. Pretty simple and cheap.
Texas lake sailor
while you are checking connections don't forget about the two inside the starter solenoid. The solenoid connections transmit the high current from the batter to the starter. You can tell if things are going south in that area by noting the occasional slow/no starter. If you try it again it will probably work fine. A bit of explanation; the connections inside the solenoid are completed by a circular contact. Two posts to the outside and a circular conductor that is pulled into them by the solenoid magnet. The magnet is what the starter switch controls BTW. Every time the solenoid is engaged it gets a few degrees of turn which exposes a fresh section of the circular conductor to the two posts. Over time the circular post can get burned spots (high resistance) that can cause slow/no starter. Hit the switch another time and a new section of circular conductor gets used and no problem.
As for alternator-starter-battery+ wiring, the manufacturer is trying to cut cost at every turn. He has kids to send to college too. Since he already has to run a large cable from the battery + to the starter AND the starter is in close proximity to the alternator, why not use the starter cable to connect the alternator to the battery. So they run a smaller cable to the starter + post. The smaller cable is OK because the alternator produces less amps then the starter uses. The alternator to starter cable only has to handle the max alt output. The starter cable can handle the charging current due to its being designed for more current to support the stater.
alternator + to starter + to battery+. Pretty simple and cheap.
Thanks Bill, I spent more time today.
I actually noticed this afternon that when I reconnected the ground to the engine yesterday, it was only finger tight as I probably just neglected to follow up with the wrench ... so, I thought lets try this again. Plus, I went behind the alternator and organized (most) all the wiring.
But the result was the same, except that the heat-stressed metal at the end of the starter case is now far more noticeable. At first, it appeared more like a small amount of corrosion and that's what I thought it was. It's definitely burned up now. It's obvious that the starter case is getting heat damage and the smoke originates from the end of the case where there is a small hole into the interior of the starter. I think that I am definitely getting a strong pulse to the solenoid from the starter button.
I've got the starter pulled once again ... so my question is whether the starter simply needs to be replaced or if there is something else that is causing the starter to burn out by resistance that is not allowing the starter to turn.
What I found behind the alternater was the alternator positive crimped to a ring combined with the red wire with the in-line fuse that comes from the wire harness that comes from the instrument panel. I suppose that is the circuit that is completed when I turn the key on. This ring is attached to the B post on the starter along with the battery cable. The starter wire is a white wire that comes from the harness and connects to the S term with a small ring. I also noted that there were 2 black ground wires that came to a loose end. One end, with the 2 ground wires crimped together on a ring terminal, was attached to the bolt that held the starter to the engine. Investigating the other loose end, I noted that it matched the broken ring that I found when I removed the grounding screw on the back side of the alternater next to the positive lead. I think this ground has been loose for as long as I've owned the boat. I'm not sure why the alternater and the starter need to have a common ground and I sure as hell don't know why it is done with 2 wires that start and end at the same location rather than 1, although I'm not positive that one of the wires doesn't come from the instrument panel. In any case, I thought there would be no harm in restoring that ground, even though they are both grounded to the engine anyway. I would love to have an explanation of what needs to be in place behind there. There were also 2 18 guage wires (red and blue) coming from a separate location at the back of the alternator and connecting to the wire harness going back to the instrument panel which I am sure are wires for guages.
I hope this is not considered a high jack as my problem is related to the original post and I thought my experiences may have some commonality with what the poster is going thru.
I actually noticed this afternon that when I reconnected the ground to the engine yesterday, it was only finger tight as I probably just neglected to follow up with the wrench ... so, I thought lets try this again. Plus, I went behind the alternator and organized (most) all the wiring.
But the result was the same, except that the heat-stressed metal at the end of the starter case is now far more noticeable. At first, it appeared more like a small amount of corrosion and that's what I thought it was. It's definitely burned up now. It's obvious that the starter case is getting heat damage and the smoke originates from the end of the case where there is a small hole into the interior of the starter. I think that I am definitely getting a strong pulse to the solenoid from the starter button.
I've got the starter pulled once again ... so my question is whether the starter simply needs to be replaced or if there is something else that is causing the starter to burn out by resistance that is not allowing the starter to turn.
What I found behind the alternater was the alternator positive crimped to a ring combined with the red wire with the in-line fuse that comes from the wire harness that comes from the instrument panel. I suppose that is the circuit that is completed when I turn the key on. This ring is attached to the B post on the starter along with the battery cable. The starter wire is a white wire that comes from the harness and connects to the S term with a small ring. I also noted that there were 2 black ground wires that came to a loose end. One end, with the 2 ground wires crimped together on a ring terminal, was attached to the bolt that held the starter to the engine. Investigating the other loose end, I noted that it matched the broken ring that I found when I removed the grounding screw on the back side of the alternater next to the positive lead. I think this ground has been loose for as long as I've owned the boat. I'm not sure why the alternater and the starter need to have a common ground and I sure as hell don't know why it is done with 2 wires that start and end at the same location rather than 1, although I'm not positive that one of the wires doesn't come from the instrument panel. In any case, I thought there would be no harm in restoring that ground, even though they are both grounded to the engine anyway. I would love to have an explanation of what needs to be in place behind there. There were also 2 18 guage wires (red and blue) coming from a separate location at the back of the alternator and connecting to the wire harness going back to the instrument panel which I am sure are wires for guages.
I hope this is not considered a high jack as my problem is related to the original post and I thought my experiences may have some commonality with what the poster is going thru.
Starters
If you have to have starter work done, or starter rebuilt, stay away from any place that has Marine in it's name. Find you an automotive rebuilder in your area. Will get you the same results, and cost you about 1/10 the price. Almost every small town has at least one starter/alternator shop. If you take it to a marine place, this is probably where they are going to send it, and then mark it up a couple hundred percent.
If you have to have starter work done, or starter rebuilt, stay away from any place that has Marine in it's name. Find you an automotive rebuilder in your area. Will get you the same results, and cost you about 1/10 the price. Almost every small town has at least one starter/alternator shop. If you take it to a marine place, this is probably where they are going to send it, and then mark it up a couple hundred percent.
Is the "marine" tag always wrong??
I ahd to replace my starter on the powerboat (24' searay). I quickly realized this was not a job I was willing to do, as it required disassembly of lots, and work must be done by elf with extra long fingers.
Since the engine is just a chevy 5.7, I was just gonna go to the local autoparts store and buy a starter, then pay a guy to put it on.
The guy doing the work came well recommended, and was great to deal with, but he said he would not put an automotive starter in the boat because the marine starter has a spark protection built in, and with the engine in a closed environment, the car sterter would be a fire hazard. I bought the correct one.
Granted, on a deisel, it might not matter, but I believe the guy, so In my situation, I needed the "marine" part...
cup
I ahd to replace my starter on the powerboat (24' searay). I quickly realized this was not a job I was willing to do, as it required disassembly of lots, and work must be done by elf with extra long fingers.
Since the engine is just a chevy 5.7, I was just gonna go to the local autoparts store and buy a starter, then pay a guy to put it on.
The guy doing the work came well recommended, and was great to deal with, but he said he would not put an automotive starter in the boat because the marine starter has a spark protection built in, and with the engine in a closed environment, the car sterter would be a fire hazard. I bought the correct one.
Granted, on a deisel, it might not matter, but I believe the guy, so In my situation, I needed the "marine" part...
cup
Did the same. Tim ...
The starter is burned out. I pick up a new one tomorrow and it's the marine version for twice the cost probably. Taking it out and putting it on is very easy in this case, though. No obstructions and all I need for one of the bolts is a pair of extensions for the socket wrench so I can turn it without hitting the cabinet.
The starter is burned out. I pick up a new one tomorrow and it's the marine version for twice the cost probably. Taking it out and putting it on is very easy in this case, though. No obstructions and all I need for one of the bolts is a pair of extensions for the socket wrench so I can turn it without hitting the cabinet.
about two weeks ago i pressed the starter button 3 times and it did nothing and on the fourth try it started. then yesterday i had a friend of mine out for a sail (who happens to be a gm/caddilac mechanic) and no start, just a click.
the solinoid got very hot, and we thought for sure it was dead starter, no sailing today! but being the mechanic he is he wanted to take a look. first thing he tapped the starter to see if it would release no luck. next he took off the connections and cleaned everything, no luck just a clunk and hot solinoid. next he took off the engine ground and cleaned, no luck.
he says well we can jump the starter across the terminals and get it going, but i dont think i want to go out on the lake and do that, but lets try it. he crossed the two terminals and only got a light spark. thats odd he says i bet this is the problem. he cleaned the terminal that the solinoid sends the power to the starter and vrrrrrrmmmmmmmmm. we stopped and started the engine about 10 times before we went it and it works perfectly!!
so check and clean the other terminal on the starter
mike
the solinoid got very hot, and we thought for sure it was dead starter, no sailing today! but being the mechanic he is he wanted to take a look. first thing he tapped the starter to see if it would release no luck. next he took off the connections and cleaned everything, no luck just a clunk and hot solinoid. next he took off the engine ground and cleaned, no luck.
he says well we can jump the starter across the terminals and get it going, but i dont think i want to go out on the lake and do that, but lets try it. he crossed the two terminals and only got a light spark. thats odd he says i bet this is the problem. he cleaned the terminal that the solinoid sends the power to the starter and vrrrrrrmmmmmmmmm. we stopped and started the engine about 10 times before we went it and it works perfectly!!
so check and clean the other terminal on the starter
mike
Reply #11 here may help in understanding how boats were wired originally between alternator, starter and switch: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4949.0.html
Hmmm ... Fig 2 applies except that....
the common post for power is on the starter rather than the alternater as the figure shows. I have a battery cable from the switch and a #8 wire from the alternater on the B post of the starter. Somebody described that earlier in the thread and it was helpful because it seems that all the rudimentary diagrams that I have seen simply show a positive wire from the alternater directly to the + post of the battery, which, of course, I could never relate to on my boat.
Anyway, we have had that discussion regarding the 1-2-B switch vs the switch that I bought which is 1-C where both banks are 'on' and isolated in the 1 position and both banks are 'on' and combined in the C position. BTW, after having this switch in my possession for at least 2 years, I finally installed it!. In any case, I also bought the ACR and am about to install it. Regardless of the switch, I think you are saying that it works better to run the AO to the power post on the house bank. The instructions for the Blue Seas ACR indicate #6 cable and an in-line fuse between the ACR and each battery. It also indicates an in-line fuse between the ground cable and the negative buss on the DP. That's 3 fuses ... is this over-kill? I couldn't find a recommendation for the specific fuse size but it seemed to indicate 5 to 15 amps, I believe, based on the recommendation for the ground and that seems like quite a range. There is also an optional connection for a starter isolator (to protect sensitive electronics) with an unspecified wire size leading to the start wire (from the button started). I am assuming that the wire could be the same size as the start wire which is #8, I believe, and that a small ring connection could be used to attach it to the S term on the starter. The connection at the ACR is a spade, not a post like the 2 battery connections. An in-line fuse is also indicated with a range from 1 to 10 amps ... again, a pretty big range it seems.
My last acquisition is a Xantrex ProLink Monitor and I haven't even studied that diagram yet!
BTW, I did clean the S term and the burned out area was the end of the starter, not the solenoid. Anyway, I tried to pick -up the new starter today, but the Parkway was clogged either by flooding or an accident or both, so I had to give up and go back home ... what a waste of time and there was no other way to get around it easily. We have had nothing but rain for June and July so far, and this is the first year in over 150 that there has not been a single day making it to 90 d (I think using NYC as the location). It has been a very cool and wet summer! :cry:
the common post for power is on the starter rather than the alternater as the figure shows. I have a battery cable from the switch and a #8 wire from the alternater on the B post of the starter. Somebody described that earlier in the thread and it was helpful because it seems that all the rudimentary diagrams that I have seen simply show a positive wire from the alternater directly to the + post of the battery, which, of course, I could never relate to on my boat.
Anyway, we have had that discussion regarding the 1-2-B switch vs the switch that I bought which is 1-C where both banks are 'on' and isolated in the 1 position and both banks are 'on' and combined in the C position. BTW, after having this switch in my possession for at least 2 years, I finally installed it!
. In any case, I also bought the ACR and am about to install it. Regardless of the switch, I think you are saying that it works better to run the AO to the power post on the house bank. The instructions for the Blue Seas ACR indicate #6 cable and an in-line fuse between the ACR and each battery. It also indicates an in-line fuse between the ground cable and the negative buss on the DP. That's 3 fuses ... is this over-kill? I couldn't find a recommendation for the specific fuse size but it seemed to indicate 5 to 15 amps, I believe, based on the recommendation for the ground and that seems like quite a range. There is also an optional connection for a starter isolator (to protect sensitive electronics) with an unspecified wire size leading to the start wire (from the button started). I am assuming that the wire could be the same size as the start wire which is #8, I believe, and that a small ring connection could be used to attach it to the S term on the starter. The connection at the ACR is a spade, not a post like the 2 battery connections. An in-line fuse is also indicated with a range from 1 to 10 amps ... again, a pretty big range it seems.My last acquisition is a Xantrex ProLink Monitor and I haven't even studied that diagram yet!
BTW, I did clean the S term and the burned out area was the end of the starter, not the solenoid. Anyway, I tried to pick -up the new starter today, but the Parkway was clogged either by flooding or an accident or both, so I had to give up and go back home ... what a waste of time and there was no other way to get around it easily. We have had nothing but rain for June and July so far, and this is the first year in over 150 that there has not been a single day making it to 90 d (I think using NYC as the location). It has been a very cool and wet summer! :cry:
T-bird-are you paying $370 for your starter? What type of engine do you have? The starter for my engine is some rediculous price also. But after looking online I have seen it for $70. It took mine apart, there was a wire that was broken and rubbing the case. I flattened and forged them back together and soldered, then insulated around it and it has worked perfect ever since. But you say you have a burn through the case so I am sure that's toast. But check onliine some more, you may be able to save $300.
Figure 2 "plus" I guess
Scott:
1. Fig 2 applies except that
the common post for power is on the starter rather than the alternater as the figure shows.
It's electrically the same, the power just runs in a different direction in the small wire between the starter and the alternator.
2. Regardless of the switch, I think you are saying that it works better to run the AO to the power post on the house bank.
Most definitely yes, think about it for a moment based on the way the switch works. The battery OUTPUT goes to the switch, from both banks. What their dual circuit wiring diagram never shows, even on their website, but maybe in their install instructions is the alternator output.
AO to house bank.
House bank and reserve bank outputs to switch
Switch outputs to 1) DP and 2) starter on engine I wish you luck with your new system, Id be very interested to learn how ti works if you "have" to parallel your banks for some reason.
Scott:
1. Fig 2 applies except that
the common post for power is on the starter rather than the alternater as the figure shows.
It's electrically the same, the power just runs in a different direction in the small wire between the starter and the alternator.
2. Regardless of the switch, I think you are saying that it works better to run the AO to the power post on the house bank.
Most definitely yes, think about it for a moment based on the way the switch works. The battery OUTPUT goes to the switch, from both banks. What their dual circuit wiring diagram never shows, even on their website, but maybe in their install instructions is the alternator output.
AO to house bank.
House bank and reserve bank outputs to switch
Switch outputs to 1) DP and 2) starter on engine I wish you luck with your new system, Id be very interested to learn how ti works if you "have" to parallel your banks for some reason.
I started to have the same problem. I put a solar maintainer panel on it and now it cranks fine the first time.
What is the consensus on those, ar ethey bad for batteries ?
What is the consensus on those, ar ethey bad for batteries ?
Marine wiring grounds
There is a difference between as chassis ground and a ground post that gets run back to the battery.
A chassis ground uses the engine (and other metal mounting parts) to complete the circuit. A starter or alternator with a ground post (same as a + post but is for ground wire) will not work with the ground post disconnected. There is no (or should not be) connection between the ground post and the chassis.
Soooo, if you take the ground wire off you may be forcing current through the chassis in a way it is not designed for. May be why the starter is heating up. The ground wire should run back to the batteries not the engine ground on the block/transmission.
Also the control circuit that the starter switch energizes is a common source of trouble in Hunters. The circuit energizes a electromagnet which pulls both the starter high current switch closed and engages the starter pinion gear with the flywheel gear. If the voltage is low due to the 12ish connections between the battery + and the battery - in the control circuit the amount of force that the electromagnet produces will not be sufficient to firmly engage the high current switch. The result is either a click and no cranking or slow cranking due to the higher resistance in the high current switch. I measured mine with a bypass so I could see the voltage. When I hit the starter I saw only 9 volts. Apparently the voltage drop in each connection is only about 0.3 volts but there are 12 of them so 3.6 volts get sucked up just supplying current to the control circuit. When I bypassed the entire circuit with a long wire from the battery she works fine.
There is a difference between as chassis ground and a ground post that gets run back to the battery.
A chassis ground uses the engine (and other metal mounting parts) to complete the circuit. A starter or alternator with a ground post (same as a + post but is for ground wire) will not work with the ground post disconnected. There is no (or should not be) connection between the ground post and the chassis.
Soooo, if you take the ground wire off you may be forcing current through the chassis in a way it is not designed for. May be why the starter is heating up. The ground wire should run back to the batteries not the engine ground on the block/transmission.
Also the control circuit that the starter switch energizes is a common source of trouble in Hunters. The circuit energizes a electromagnet which pulls both the starter high current switch closed and engages the starter pinion gear with the flywheel gear. If the voltage is low due to the 12ish connections between the battery + and the battery - in the control circuit the amount of force that the electromagnet produces will not be sufficient to firmly engage the high current switch. The result is either a click and no cranking or slow cranking due to the higher resistance in the high current switch. I measured mine with a bypass so I could see the voltage. When I hit the starter I saw only 9 volts. Apparently the voltage drop in each connection is only about 0.3 volts but there are 12 of them so 3.6 volts get sucked up just supplying current to the control circuit. When I bypassed the entire circuit with a long wire from the battery she works fine.
Yup, solar is BAD for bateries!
C'mon, Hermit, you've been reading this board for quite a while.
A trickle chargere will end up "hiding" more serious battery problems.
And, like we've said for years, check the ground wiring connections.
Older Yanmar engine control panels and 'starter' circuits dont use tinned wiring and are thus VERY subject to corrosion, especially at the terminal connections of the wiring. Also, most Yanmar engines have engine mounted fuses for the solenoid primary circuit (- on the aft/starboard side of the engine) that is HIGHLY subject to corrosion in the wiring/connections. All the corroded wiring/connections lead to serious voltage drops, with accompanying amperage increase requirements - everything gets 'hot', but not enough current passes to energize the solenoid - if you have an optical pyrometer (infrared 'direct read' optical thermometer), you usually can find the 'offender' very quickly by its 'heat' after any starting attempt.
Suggest that you first check the engine mounted fuse block assembly and test for a voltage drop across that fuse. If you read any significant voltage drop, then replace that entire fuse assembly as this is the 'most common' problem in Yanmar starting circuits. Next check for a voltage drop across the 'starter push button' - high resistance anywhere in the circuit causes the contacts in the push-button to 'arc' excessively which will cause the push button's contacts to be burned and covered with carbon ... causing even higher resistance in the 'whole' primary wiring circuit. A replacement push button from a Yanmar dealer is approx $12.00 ... OR even better get an Ancor type of push button that uses 'tinned' components. Ditto, on the fuse assembly - replace with and use 'tinned' components.
Then check all the other connections, etc. (key switch, wiring to solenoid connection, etc. etc., AND including the infamous and usually overlooked 'engine ground' connection.
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