Would anyone care to share how they go about changing oil on their diesel engine. I have a Yanmar 2GM20 on a 1985 28.5, and have tried various pumps/tools to change oil. Any suggestions on products out there that perform well and completely? Thanks in advance...
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Colin
WARM THE ENDINE
I warm the engine up and stick a small hose down were the dipstick goes, give the pump a few pumps and let it drain out prety easy
I warm the engine up and stick a small hose down were the dipstick goes, give the pump a few pumps and let it drain out prety easy
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Don
West Marine pump/tank combo
Just bought one of these gizmos ($25 or so) and it works GREAT. I've done the usual milk jug route for years and this is a fast improvement. It consists of a 2-3 gallon plastic "jug" with a pump handle and a hose that goes into the dipstick. Only saw them for a while at West and guy there said they were selling like crazy. They have other models with metal cans, etc., but this one is easy and cheap.
Just bought one of these gizmos ($25 or so) and it works GREAT. I've done the usual milk jug route for years and this is a fast improvement. It consists of a 2-3 gallon plastic "jug" with a pump handle and a hose that goes into the dipstick. Only saw them for a while at West and guy there said they were selling like crazy. They have other models with metal cans, etc., but this one is easy and cheap.
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Terry
Cappy, I got the metal can with a vacuum pump...
from WM, blue in color. Works great. No mess, no fuss. Terry
from WM, blue in color. Works great. No mess, no fuss. Terry
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Jerzy Zalesinski
Another working solution...
It has to be done when the engine is hot. Best.... right after last season trip. I suggest (very well working) "do-it-yourself" solution for about $15. Use your favorite power drill pump. 1. buy drill pump (Flotec or ShurFlo) ca $8 2. 1/4 ID nylon tubing (ca 2.5 FT for $2-3) 3. Car break line 1/4" tube, cut 1 FT to create sucking nozzle ($ 4 or so) that goes into hot engine deepstick hole. 4. matching fittings. It will clean engine in 30 sec into plastic bottle which you can take out for proper disposal. You can clean the pump after it is all finished by pumping small volume of laundry solution (soapy water). The same pump may be used for any other liquid displaysment on the boat, like filing water lines with antifreeze, etc.
It has to be done when the engine is hot. Best.... right after last season trip. I suggest (very well working) "do-it-yourself" solution for about $15. Use your favorite power drill pump. 1. buy drill pump (Flotec or ShurFlo) ca $8 2. 1/4 ID nylon tubing (ca 2.5 FT for $2-3) 3. Car break line 1/4" tube, cut 1 FT to create sucking nozzle ($ 4 or so) that goes into hot engine deepstick hole. 4. matching fittings. It will clean engine in 30 sec into plastic bottle which you can take out for proper disposal. You can clean the pump after it is all finished by pumping small volume of laundry solution (soapy water). The same pump may be used for any other liquid displaysment on the boat, like filing water lines with antifreeze, etc.
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Dan Grosz
Double Oil Change
Here's how I do it. 1) Use Oil Boy Vac Pump -- far superior to anything else 2) After pumping out, I take off the old filter and drain it. I then take cheap diesel rated oil (e.g. Coastal in NE) and fill up the old filter and fill up the engine with the cheap oil. 3) Run the engine for 10-15 minutes 4) Remove oil & filter again 5) Fill up new oil filter with fresh premium oil (e.g. Chevron). The advantage of pre-filling the filter is that there is no pressure loss on initial startup. Its suprising on how much oil the filter actually aborbs. 6) Fill up engine oil. The advantage of this "double change" is that it keeps the engine far cleaner than a single change. Since I change the oil only 2-3 times per season, this is not much of an additional cost or hassle.
Here's how I do it. 1) Use Oil Boy Vac Pump -- far superior to anything else 2) After pumping out, I take off the old filter and drain it. I then take cheap diesel rated oil (e.g. Coastal in NE) and fill up the old filter and fill up the engine with the cheap oil. 3) Run the engine for 10-15 minutes 4) Remove oil & filter again 5) Fill up new oil filter with fresh premium oil (e.g. Chevron). The advantage of pre-filling the filter is that there is no pressure loss on initial startup. Its suprising on how much oil the filter actually aborbs. 6) Fill up engine oil. The advantage of this "double change" is that it keeps the engine far cleaner than a single change. Since I change the oil only 2-3 times per season, this is not much of an additional cost or hassle.
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John K Kudera
Electric Fuel Pump
Two years ago I bought an automotive 12 volt electric fuel pump on E bay. I have a short hose, and a 15" piece of 1/4" copper tubing fitted together as a pick up tube, a longer length of fuel hose to put into a gallon plastic milk jug. wired to a cigarette lighter plug and an on/ off switch. I run the engine to heat the oil, place the tube down the dipstick hole,turh it on, and a few minutes later I have the oil for recycling, no mess, I clean the pump with some diesel, keep on board for an emergency fel transfer, or fuel system failure. Works for me>
Two years ago I bought an automotive 12 volt electric fuel pump on E bay. I have a short hose, and a 15" piece of 1/4" copper tubing fitted together as a pick up tube, a longer length of fuel hose to put into a gallon plastic milk jug. wired to a cigarette lighter plug and an on/ off switch. I run the engine to heat the oil, place the tube down the dipstick hole,turh it on, and a few minutes later I have the oil for recycling, no mess, I clean the pump with some diesel, keep on board for an emergency fel transfer, or fuel system failure. Works for me>
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Debra B
Oil Boy works great!
much better than similar pumps and good for so many things, Trasn fluid, diesel....
much better than similar pumps and good for so many things, Trasn fluid, diesel....
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Sam Lust
My way realy sucks.
Along with an enormous pile of other junk, the previous owner of my boat left a little pump which seems to be a gear to gear positive displacement type based on the sound. I have seen this pump advertised in The J. C. Whitney catalog for about $25. It is a small pistol grip arrangement with a decent length wire with terminal clamps, clear hoses and steel pick-up tube, and a slide switch on top. operation is simple and very effective. I pump into a recyclable jug with a screw on cap (apple juice or such) and take it to the local recycling center with the other dozen or so jugs I've accumulated. The pickup tube slips into the outlet tube leaving the pump mechanism primed for the next time. The one trick I'm realy happy with: Before I dropped my engine in place I pulled the oil pan off, cleaned the inside, drilled and tapped, screwed in a ball valve. connected to the valve is a piece of hose that comes up from below the pan. I stick the dip tube in the hose, open the valve, and suck out the oil that drains out of the bottom of the engine. Simple and effective.
Along with an enormous pile of other junk, the previous owner of my boat left a little pump which seems to be a gear to gear positive displacement type based on the sound. I have seen this pump advertised in The J. C. Whitney catalog for about $25. It is a small pistol grip arrangement with a decent length wire with terminal clamps, clear hoses and steel pick-up tube, and a slide switch on top. operation is simple and very effective. I pump into a recyclable jug with a screw on cap (apple juice or such) and take it to the local recycling center with the other dozen or so jugs I've accumulated. The pickup tube slips into the outlet tube leaving the pump mechanism primed for the next time. The one trick I'm realy happy with: Before I dropped my engine in place I pulled the oil pan off, cleaned the inside, drilled and tapped, screwed in a ball valve. connected to the valve is a piece of hose that comes up from below the pan. I stick the dip tube in the hose, open the valve, and suck out the oil that drains out of the bottom of the engine. Simple and effective.
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