Diesel Oil Change

[RoyS]

I have mentioned this before, but today I have a photo. Most of us have tried to pump out our crankcase oil through the dip stick port. Depending on the angle that the engine is installed this never results in completely emptying the crankcase. The oil is, of course, at the rear lowest part of the oil pan. The dip stick is in the center. I discovered on my Yanmar 2QM15 that I can easily fish the plastic suction hose down through the oil fill port, into the engine block, through the valve push rod opening and down to the very bottom and rear of the oil sump. This allows me to remove virtually every last drop of oil in the engine. After replacing the filter, refilling the oil, and running the engine, the oil on the dipstick is clean without any black coloring. I suspect that most diesel engines may be similarly emptied of old oil.

 

[Will Gilmore]

Nice Roy.

-Will (Dragonfly)

 

[capta]

If you have a drain plug on your engine, this is the perfect solution to changing oil.

https://ezoildrainvalve.com/index.html

 

[Justin_NSA]

I don't think I could get a drain pan low enough and large enough to drain into. If I could, how would I ever get it out without spilling the oil? The fitting looks like it has threads on the inside. First step in adding an electric drain pump maybe? The only way to be sure you're picking up "gunk" at the bottom is gravity drain from the pan

I may try the oil fill cap next time. Judging by how much I remove, the dipstick hole seems to get almost all.

 

[Capt jgw]

If you take the valve cover off to adjust the valves, it would be even easier to fish the tube in through a pushrod opening. Checking the valves on my to do list this Fall, I'll try it. Thanks for the idea. My Kubota has a drain plug, but not enough room under for a catch pan, as is the case on a lot of boats.

 

[Capt jgw]

I don't think I could get a drain pan low enough and large enough to drain into. If I could, how would I ever get it out without spilling the oil? The fitting looks like it has threads on the inside. First step in adding an electric drain pump maybe? The only way to be sure you're picking up "gunk" at the bottom is gravity drain from the pan

I may try the oil fill cap next time. Judging by how much I remove, the dipstick hole seems to get almost all.

I found I could get a small pan under the engine, but then found I couldn't get it out without spilling the oil. Ended up having to use the pump anyway to empty the pan, so the whole exercise was kind of pointless. I have to check the valves anyway, so I'll try going in that way this time.
That little bit of remaining oil won't hurt anything anyway, and makes it easier to see the level on the dip stick.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Why not attach a hose to the bottom crankcase drain and secure it to the side of the engine compartment? Then use your suction pump in that bottom drain hose to completely empty the crankcase.

 

[Head Sail]

Why not attach a hose to the bottom crankcase drain and secure it to the side of the engine compartment? Then use your suction pump in that bottom drain hose to completely empty the crankcase.

I have a hose attached to the drain pan hole. Gets most oil out but still a cup or so remains at the rear of the pan because of the engine tilt.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Why not attach a hose to the bottom crankcase drain and secure it to the side of the engine compartment? Then use your suction pump in that bottom drain hose to completely empty the crankcase.

That’s how Oday set up at least their 28. The only problem was that the suction pump needed a threaded fitting to couple to the drain hose, and that fitting would leak a bit during oil changes.

 

[higgs]

I think we get a bit hung up about this sort of thing. Of course most of do not get all the oil out. My Yanmar QM3 is 35 years old and running strong. I've owned it for 15 years and it still does not use any oil.