Diesel Maintenance

[Tom23400]

I have a 12hp Westerbeke with 682hrs. It runs fine and does not burn
any oil. Is there preventive maintenance that should be done other than
oil changes?

 

[sailaway78]

Diesel Maint.

I am not familiar with the Westerbeke per se. But there are things you should do to all diesels. Don't know what your state of experience is so here is a short list. Always use the very best oil and parts you can get. Teach yourself as much as possible about the engine. Particularly where the fuel filters are and how to change them,and how to bleed the fuel system. Change all the fuel filters on a regular basis. Your manual will give you what they recommend, experience will tell you if that is often enough. Check all belts and hoses each time you change the oil. At each oil change check/clean the intake silencer/filter if you have one, and check the old oil for water or other contamination. Each time you change oil, give the engine a visual inspection, for oil leaks, loose or missing bolts etc. I'm sure you will get other ideas from others on the board. But it you take good care of them, these little diesels are virtually bullet proof.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

to add to N&E's good points

don't forget to periodically replace the transmission fluid and coolant, raw water impeller, clean all sea water strainers and most important, ensure your fuel and fuel tank is as clean as practical.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Tom, go to www.marinedieseldirect.com

and obtain the manual for your engine if you don't have one already. Manuals seem to have all those "to do" thing right in them.

 

[Deadline]

Here's a list to consider...

Engine, November
Inspect fanbelts for wear stretch 1/ inch maximum
Replace mixing elblow every five years done in January 200
Verify engine runs 3600 rpm at high idle or full bore, may need tuneup
Drain and replace coolant fine in 200, try November 05
after draining, add FPPF 000 from Dec box
if connection leaking, clean out hardened antifreeze clumps
refill with 50-50 Texaco Anti-Freeze coolant extended life (green)...
run engine to force air out of coolant at petcock
not over lines for hot and cold, should rise and fall to those closely
tighten coolant clamps everywhere to get overflow jar to work
see page 30 for frequent places of leakage
weakest links are at clamps for raw water and antifreeze
clean pressure cap everywhere with bronze wool, inside cap too.
cap to Napa 13 psi check.... First, rub rubber to heat up to fit.
Remove and clean air horn filter, gently
Order set of new filters from ship’s store
Impeller No. 128296-2070
Impeller gasket No. 12223-2110 or 2070
Yanmar secondary fuel filter No. 10500-55710 & O ring (engine)
Racor primary fuel filter R-11 for 110 & 2 O-rings for filter, canister
Turn off petcock & wear paper mask
Replace engine fuel filter, bleed offset w. socket. Refill with 870 syringe
Open Racor primary filter for black/smelly/water turn to stern to loosen
when changing fuel filters, be sure to have new O ring for primary
Pump & turn camshaft turn off raw water to avoid flooding
• Do not go beyond 15-sec bursts
Turn petcock back on • rev up neutral at startup to blow out air
Replace impeller, white grease, replace gasket, test by turn camshaft
Clean out raw water tank and replace three Perko corks, Chuck new 05
Inspect and clean flex motor mounts for signs of oil/fuel residue
Inspect engine for rubber deterioration
consult manual for torque on fittings, using small torque wrench
Clean mildew everywhere inside and outside, Neutral clear on liners
Change trans fluid every year with 0.3 liter let sit smelly/dark
Change oil and Yanmar filter after final run
Replace Perko cork, clean lid
replace O-ring on diesel cap
Tighten up cable brace • ensure trans cable firmly bolted >>
Run Rydlme gal to remove deposits use 2 gal water for 66%
Charge batteries one last time prior to hauling

Haul, December
Take bucket, brush on pole to clean under the cradle straps, hot water
Have heavy knife ready to scrape barnacles off the prop
Record ending mileage — 5567
Before departing to yard, remove 6 docks lines, anchor line, 3 fenders
In the bay close seacock, pull out strainer, flush with 2 gal fresh water
Winterize raw water intake with 2 gal, shut raw water to avoid leaking out
Save quart of antifreeze for commode with 50-50 water, flush fully
Remove jackets, manual, anything that will mildew
Wash 6 dock lines and anchor lines with Tide, Oxident, Softener
call Max-Prop for 5-year sendback recalibration & polishing do early

Home, December
Send sails off to Sail Care for resew, new Velcros, new slug, re-resin
Send main sail cover to Ships Store to copy a new one
Store sail bags in cool, dry spot
Ivory snow, lukewarm 1x sail cover & catbirds, 1x clear, Scotch Guard
Remove all four wooden blocks to repaint
Polish line block, spin shackles. Treat sheaves with plastic cleaner
Remove and identify lifelines for cleaning at home
Remove and replace shorepower line for new mildew heater
Refill & store 2 batteries on wood steps use electrical grease not white
Polish lifeline stainless and add WD-30 in groves, not white grease

Hards, December *engine cont.
*Replace mixing elbow every 5 years bolts at engine • done fall 03
*Tighten fanbelt
- loosen bolt at rear of right wheel near oil filter 12mm
- squeeze down big wrench in front, retighten
*Do not tighten alternator fanbelt
- quarter-inch play okay or will burn out water pump
*Remove pressure cap and clean, or replace at 13 psi
*Make sure throttle cable recoils okay at shut-off, and stays down
*Check engine mounts for any twist and straighten
*Replace thermostat & gasket • pump antifreeze first
*Dremel & lube starter contacts at panel & solenoid heavy duty
*pull corroded bolt in starter motor and replace do this in 0
*Tighten fuel fittings to avoid air getting in, beware stripping alum
*tighten water hose clamps everywhere but not too tight
*look for anti-siphon valves, check by blowing and sucking

 

[ITMaster]

You Should

Find out about the history of the engine. Are you the only owner of this engine or was there another one prior to you? I don't know what Westerbeke cites for valve adjustment, but at 682 hours, if it hasn't been done yet, I would want to know when the manufacturer says it should be done and my guess it that it is past due. Yanmar, I think, says it should be done at 500 hours. You will notice a substantial performance inprovement when that has been done and that will add life to the engine, specifically the valve train.

Not having the proper valve lash set, especially if it is too tight can cause premature wear, poor performance and excessive fuel consumption. I would look in to that very carefully. It is well worth the expense to pay to have it done correctly if you don't know how, which if you are asking, leads me to presume that you don't.