The last thing before i hit that water i want to test the engine after changing the fuel filters. I did all the nessisary bleeding, I believe, but she won't start. The engine cranks and the belts turn but she won't start up. Any suggestions? I have a all new wiring harness and charging system witht a brand new battery. everything is connected correctly and the juice is flowing. But she still won't turn over. Any help would be great.
Diesel M-25 won't start
- Thread starter jaydog5000
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most likely
problem is air in the fuel system. Did you bleed the high pressure side of the injector pump (as well as filters and low pressure side)? If not, that's likely the problem. If you have fuel at the injectors and they are not clogged, it has to start. Let us know if you need to know how...
problem is air in the fuel system. Did you bleed the high pressure side of the injector pump (as well as filters and low pressure side)? If not, that's likely the problem. If you have fuel at the injectors and they are not clogged, it has to start. Let us know if you need to know how...
Fuel
Since there is no ignition with a diesel, has to be the fuel system. And since you have changed the filters, good bet would be some air in the system. Have you bled it on the high pressure side of the injector pump. Air in the pump and it won't pump. There is a bleed screw on the pump itself.
Since there is no ignition with a diesel, has to be the fuel system. And since you have changed the filters, good bet would be some air in the system. Have you bled it on the high pressure side of the injector pump. Air in the pump and it won't pump. There is a bleed screw on the pump itself.
A little bit of air ....
will airbound a diesel. First thing is, since you've replaced the filter, is, did you fill up the new filter with fuel before you installed it? Also, you may have to crack open the line at the injector(s) while you crank the engine. Once you begine to see fuel squirt out, do the otheres ... by this time the engine will begin to fire up and start. The thing is, if you have a multi-cylinder engine such as a perkins (4-236) 4 cylinder you may notice a few injector lines looped in a coil. This is because all lines must be the same length. As a result air can get trapped in the injector line that is coiled and airbound the injector to the point that it wonn't fire. If needed, loosen the nut at the injector line to all injectors. Begin cranking and as fuel begins to seep out of each injector line nut .. tighten it. Normally the engine will already begin to fire up after a few injector lines are tightened. Also be advised engine cranking speed must be normal or otherwise compression is thrown off to a point that might inhibit the proper compression heat needed to start diesel ignition. wishing you luck Tom
will airbound a diesel. First thing is, since you've replaced the filter, is, did you fill up the new filter with fuel before you installed it? Also, you may have to crack open the line at the injector(s) while you crank the engine. Once you begine to see fuel squirt out, do the otheres ... by this time the engine will begin to fire up and start. The thing is, if you have a multi-cylinder engine such as a perkins (4-236) 4 cylinder you may notice a few injector lines looped in a coil. This is because all lines must be the same length. As a result air can get trapped in the injector line that is coiled and airbound the injector to the point that it wonn't fire. If needed, loosen the nut at the injector line to all injectors. Begin cranking and as fuel begins to seep out of each injector line nut .. tighten it. Normally the engine will already begin to fire up after a few injector lines are tightened. Also be advised engine cranking speed must be normal or otherwise compression is thrown off to a point that might inhibit the proper compression heat needed to start diesel ignition. wishing you luck Tom
High Pressure Side
Thanks guys!!! Don, is what Clown Pilot say the same is what you are telling me to do? Bleeding the high pressure side? Also seems like th starter is not cranking ast enough!!! Any thoughts?
Thanks guys!!! Don, is what Clown Pilot say the same is what you are telling me to do? Bleeding the high pressure side? Also seems like th starter is not cranking ast enough!!! Any thoughts?
yes
the injector pump pumps at a higher pressure than the fuel pump does and is what controls how much fuel gets to the injectors. However, now you mention a different problem - the starter. If it cannot crank the engine sufficiently fast enough to start, that could be the problem as well. Check the electrical connections to the starter, particularly the ground, to see why it isn't acting properly.
the injector pump pumps at a higher pressure than the fuel pump does and is what controls how much fuel gets to the injectors. However, now you mention a different problem - the starter. If it cannot crank the engine sufficiently fast enough to start, that could be the problem as well. Check the electrical connections to the starter, particularly the ground, to see why it isn't acting properly.
Take your time and check every point
When bleeding the system take your time with each step.... Hint #1: When working the manual fuel pump use slow steady full strokes. Hint #2: Have a good supply of shop towels and bleed each point completely. It is much easier the second time than the first... Below is a link on this topic.. While it is for a Westerbeke, much of the imformation will still apply. Good luck Garner
When bleeding the system take your time with each step.... Hint #1: When working the manual fuel pump use slow steady full strokes. Hint #2: Have a good supply of shop towels and bleed each point completely. It is much easier the second time than the first... Below is a link on this topic.. While it is for a Westerbeke, much of the imformation will still apply. Good luck Garner
Take your time and check every point
When bleeding the system take your time with each step.... Hint #1: When working the manual fuel pump use slow steady full strokes. Hint #2: Have a good supply of shop towels and bleed each point completely. It is much easier the second time than the first... Below is a link on this topic.. While it is for a Westerbeke, much of the imformation will still apply. Good luck Garner
When bleeding the system take your time with each step.... Hint #1: When working the manual fuel pump use slow steady full strokes. Hint #2: Have a good supply of shop towels and bleed each point completely. It is much easier the second time than the first... Below is a link on this topic.. While it is for a Westerbeke, much of the imformation will still apply. Good luck Garner
Here's how to do it
from many years of C34 IA members experience with M25s. Click the link on the reply for the longer thread it references: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3682.0 Also be aware that excessive cranking will fill up the muffler, which is a NO NO. Be careful. If you're having trouble with the starter while doing this, plug into shorepower so the starter can keep working until you finish the bleed and the engine starts. The all you'll have to do is to find out what the issue with the starter could be. Most likely poor connections, check the ground on the engine block. You should have a fuel pump. Here's information on that: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2515.0
from many years of C34 IA members experience with M25s. Click the link on the reply for the longer thread it references: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3682.0 Also be aware that excessive cranking will fill up the muffler, which is a NO NO. Be careful. If you're having trouble with the starter while doing this, plug into shorepower so the starter can keep working until you finish the bleed and the engine starts. The all you'll have to do is to find out what the issue with the starter could be. Most likely poor connections, check the ground on the engine block. You should have a fuel pump. Here's information on that: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2515.0
Here's how to do it
from many years of C34 IA members experience with M25s. Click the link on the reply for the longer thread it references: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3682.0 Also be aware that excessive cranking will fill up the muffler, which is a NO NO. Be careful. If you're having trouble with the starter while doing this, plug into shorepower so the starter can keep working until you finish the bleed and the engine starts. The all you'll have to do is to find out what the issue with the starter could be. Most likely poor connections, check the ground on the engine block. You should have a fuel pump. Here's information on that: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2515.0
from many years of C34 IA members experience with M25s. Click the link on the reply for the longer thread it references: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3682.0 Also be aware that excessive cranking will fill up the muffler, which is a NO NO. Be careful. If you're having trouble with the starter while doing this, plug into shorepower so the starter can keep working until you finish the bleed and the engine starts. The all you'll have to do is to find out what the issue with the starter could be. Most likely poor connections, check the ground on the engine block. You should have a fuel pump. Here's information on that: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2515.0
Electric Fuel Pump
Don't know about the M-25, but it only took one time having to bleed the system on my Yanmar, and I installed an electric fuel pump. Reaching around behind a bunch of stuff, and working that little lever with one finger is not for me. It's hard enough just to find the damn thing. Takes forever to bleed the entire system. I installed an electric fuel pump, with a switch. Put two ball valves in the fuel line so I normally just leave the pump turned off and bypass it, but when needed, sure saves alot of time and effort. For no more time and money than it takes, not having to manually bleed the system one time, makes it well worth it.
Don't know about the M-25, but it only took one time having to bleed the system on my Yanmar, and I installed an electric fuel pump. Reaching around behind a bunch of stuff, and working that little lever with one finger is not for me. It's hard enough just to find the damn thing. Takes forever to bleed the entire system. I installed an electric fuel pump, with a switch. Put two ball valves in the fuel line so I normally just leave the pump turned off and bypass it, but when needed, sure saves alot of time and effort. For no more time and money than it takes, not having to manually bleed the system one time, makes it well worth it.
Electric Fuel Pump
Don't know about the M-25, but it only took one time having to bleed the system on my Yanmar, and I installed an electric fuel pump. Reaching around behind a bunch of stuff, and working that little lever with one finger is not for me. It's hard enough just to find the damn thing. Takes forever to bleed the entire system. I installed an electric fuel pump, with a switch. Put two ball valves in the fuel line so I normally just leave the pump turned off and bypass it, but when needed, sure saves alot of time and effort. For no more time and money than it takes, not having to manually bleed the system one time, makes it well worth it.
Don't know about the M-25, but it only took one time having to bleed the system on my Yanmar, and I installed an electric fuel pump. Reaching around behind a bunch of stuff, and working that little lever with one finger is not for me. It's hard enough just to find the damn thing. Takes forever to bleed the entire system. I installed an electric fuel pump, with a switch. Put two ball valves in the fuel line so I normally just leave the pump turned off and bypass it, but when needed, sure saves alot of time and effort. For no more time and money than it takes, not having to manually bleed the system one time, makes it well worth it.
Elec pump?
Was thinking about putting an elec fuel pump on my Yanmar but have a question - can it also bleed the high pressure side? If not, it wouldn't seem worth the effort in my case as engine access is quite easy.
Was thinking about putting an elec fuel pump on my Yanmar but have a question - can it also bleed the high pressure side? If not, it wouldn't seem worth the effort in my case as engine access is quite easy.
Elec pump?
Was thinking about putting an elec fuel pump on my Yanmar but have a question - can it also bleed the high pressure side? If not, it wouldn't seem worth the effort in my case as engine access is quite easy.
Was thinking about putting an elec fuel pump on my Yanmar but have a question - can it also bleed the high pressure side? If not, it wouldn't seem worth the effort in my case as engine access is quite easy.
Would love to see your plumbing diagram . . . .
Nice n Easy. I need to do some extensive PM for my system and don't want to go through the laborious process of using the little lever on the 2GM20F but don't want to permanently wire in an electric pump either.
Nice n Easy. I need to do some extensive PM for my system and don't want to go through the laborious process of using the little lever on the 2GM20F but don't want to permanently wire in an electric pump either.
Would love to see your plumbing diagram . . . .
Nice n Easy. I need to do some extensive PM for my system and don't want to go through the laborious process of using the little lever on the 2GM20F but don't want to permanently wire in an electric pump either.
Nice n Easy. I need to do some extensive PM for my system and don't want to go through the laborious process of using the little lever on the 2GM20F but don't want to permanently wire in an electric pump either.
Diagram
isn't clear to me how the pump would/could pass fuel through the high pressure pump to the injectors?? Without doing so, it could be used only to bleed the low pressure side
isn't clear to me how the pump would/could pass fuel through the high pressure pump to the injectors?? Without doing so, it could be used only to bleed the low pressure side
Diagram
isn't clear to me how the pump would/could pass fuel through the high pressure pump to the injectors?? Without doing so, it could be used only to bleed the low pressure side
isn't clear to me how the pump would/could pass fuel through the high pressure pump to the injectors?? Without doing so, it could be used only to bleed the low pressure side
Electric pump
jaydog, don't have a diagram but here is a simple rundown. The pump is mounted on a bulkhead, close to the tank. I have a T in the fuel line coming out of the tank, one side going to the elect pump. the other just going to the origional fuel feed line. I installed a ball valve in each line, so I can shut off either fuel feed as needed. Ran a hot wire from the ign. switch to the pump, with a simple toggle switch mounted beside the pump, to turn the pump off unless needed. That and a ground wire is all you need. I can easily bleed the entire system all the way to the injectors with this set up, without having to pump that damn little lever. It also saved my bacon last fall in the upper Deleware bay, getting into an anchorage after dark. The boat had not been used in a pretty good while, weather was a little rough, and the tank getting low. Apparently picked up some trash from the tank and was trying to stop up a filter. Engine trying to quit. I turned on the elect. pump, and it gave me enough fuel to get into an anchorage and a chance to change filters, without having to fumble around in rough water in the dark. I think you will find from the responses on here, that many of us have electric pumps installed. Can be used for bleeding the system, transfer of fuel between tanks if you have more than one tank, or draining a tank easily if needed. If you have more questions, just post up, or send me an email.
jaydog, don't have a diagram but here is a simple rundown. The pump is mounted on a bulkhead, close to the tank. I have a T in the fuel line coming out of the tank, one side going to the elect pump. the other just going to the origional fuel feed line. I installed a ball valve in each line, so I can shut off either fuel feed as needed. Ran a hot wire from the ign. switch to the pump, with a simple toggle switch mounted beside the pump, to turn the pump off unless needed. That and a ground wire is all you need. I can easily bleed the entire system all the way to the injectors with this set up, without having to pump that damn little lever. It also saved my bacon last fall in the upper Deleware bay, getting into an anchorage after dark. The boat had not been used in a pretty good while, weather was a little rough, and the tank getting low. Apparently picked up some trash from the tank and was trying to stop up a filter. Engine trying to quit. I turned on the elect. pump, and it gave me enough fuel to get into an anchorage and a chance to change filters, without having to fumble around in rough water in the dark. I think you will find from the responses on here, that many of us have electric pumps installed. Can be used for bleeding the system, transfer of fuel between tanks if you have more than one tank, or draining a tank easily if needed. If you have more questions, just post up, or send me an email.
Electric pump
jaydog, don't have a diagram but here is a simple rundown. The pump is mounted on a bulkhead, close to the tank. I have a T in the fuel line coming out of the tank, one side going to the elect pump. the other just going to the origional fuel feed line. I installed a ball valve in each line, so I can shut off either fuel feed as needed. Ran a hot wire from the ign. switch to the pump, with a simple toggle switch mounted beside the pump, to turn the pump off unless needed. That and a ground wire is all you need. I can easily bleed the entire system all the way to the injectors with this set up, without having to pump that damn little lever. It also saved my bacon last fall in the upper Deleware bay, getting into an anchorage after dark. The boat had not been used in a pretty good while, weather was a little rough, and the tank getting low. Apparently picked up some trash from the tank and was trying to stop up a filter. Engine trying to quit. I turned on the elect. pump, and it gave me enough fuel to get into an anchorage and a chance to change filters, without having to fumble around in rough water in the dark. I think you will find from the responses on here, that many of us have electric pumps installed. Can be used for bleeding the system, transfer of fuel between tanks if you have more than one tank, or draining a tank easily if needed. If you have more questions, just post up, or send me an email.
jaydog, don't have a diagram but here is a simple rundown. The pump is mounted on a bulkhead, close to the tank. I have a T in the fuel line coming out of the tank, one side going to the elect pump. the other just going to the origional fuel feed line. I installed a ball valve in each line, so I can shut off either fuel feed as needed. Ran a hot wire from the ign. switch to the pump, with a simple toggle switch mounted beside the pump, to turn the pump off unless needed. That and a ground wire is all you need. I can easily bleed the entire system all the way to the injectors with this set up, without having to pump that damn little lever. It also saved my bacon last fall in the upper Deleware bay, getting into an anchorage after dark. The boat had not been used in a pretty good while, weather was a little rough, and the tank getting low. Apparently picked up some trash from the tank and was trying to stop up a filter. Engine trying to quit. I turned on the elect. pump, and it gave me enough fuel to get into an anchorage and a chance to change filters, without having to fumble around in rough water in the dark. I think you will find from the responses on here, that many of us have electric pumps installed. Can be used for bleeding the system, transfer of fuel between tanks if you have more than one tank, or draining a tank easily if needed. If you have more questions, just post up, or send me an email.
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