Does anyone have an opinion on wether or not to add bir bor diesel fuel conditioner to the fuel tank or not.. Fuel shows no signs of algae, fungus etc. without the conditioner, Can bio bor make the situation worse?
Diesel fuel conditioner
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Additives?
I pass on all the additives, IMHO they are over rated and useless if the engine is run and used, and refilled as necessary. At every fill or refill I simply toss a splash of gasoline in the tank, it keeps the diesel fuel thin and clean and pure. Jim
I pass on all the additives, IMHO they are over rated and useless if the engine is run and used, and refilled as necessary. At every fill or refill I simply toss a splash of gasoline in the tank, it keeps the diesel fuel thin and clean and pure. Jim
I have used it for years.
I have used one of these additives for years without any ill effects. I only use it as a preventitive measure. We have not had any of these problems either. I think that these products are fine when used according to directions. If it says 1/4 oz. in 20 gal of fuel, that is what I use.
I have used one of these additives for years without any ill effects. I only use it as a preventitive measure. We have not had any of these problems either. I think that these products are fine when used according to directions. If it says 1/4 oz. in 20 gal of fuel, that is what I use.
Basic Diesel
In my diesel class a few years ago, the very first thing that the instructor told us was: "Treat ALL diesel as suspect". In other words, never trust that the fuel is always good. Based upon that, I have used BIO-BOR every time I get fuel unless it is pre-treated (some places have it). I never let it drop below half and stabilize a full tank when it get laid up for the winter. Why take the risk? I never treat it with a "thinner" since I don't use it in the winter. I don't agree with using a splash of gas to thin it. A diesel doesn't like gas and can foul the injectors. If you want to "thin" the diesel then use a splash of kerosene.
In my diesel class a few years ago, the very first thing that the instructor told us was: "Treat ALL diesel as suspect". In other words, never trust that the fuel is always good. Based upon that, I have used BIO-BOR every time I get fuel unless it is pre-treated (some places have it). I never let it drop below half and stabilize a full tank when it get laid up for the winter. Why take the risk? I never treat it with a "thinner" since I don't use it in the winter. I don't agree with using a splash of gas to thin it. A diesel doesn't like gas and can foul the injectors. If you want to "thin" the diesel then use a splash of kerosene.
Additives/boosters
In the Bay with warm summer months many of us use bio additive to kill creatures at each fill Also keep full to limit condensation. Many also recommend water absorber every other fill or so and stabilizer for winter with full tank at haulout A cetane additve is said to greatly improve most deisel but I have not tried it What is experience out there with Cetane boosters? t.
In the Bay with warm summer months many of us use bio additive to kill creatures at each fill Also keep full to limit condensation. Many also recommend water absorber every other fill or so and stabilizer for winter with full tank at haulout A cetane additve is said to greatly improve most deisel but I have not tried it What is experience out there with Cetane boosters? t.
I treat my fuel like my best friend
My view is that an ounce of prevention is worth a ton of very expensive cure. Several months ago I began to see some blue smoke immediately after starting the motor. It would go away after warm up and running the engine at cruising speed. I was advised by our local Yanmar dealer to use a fuel additive called Pri-D. I realize this is not a biocide, per se, but it has helped to eliminate the blue smoke I used to see. It is my understanding that blue smoke can be the by-product of clogged injectors. I now have all but eliminated the smoke. I have only seen algae in the Racor see-into bowl one time. Since using the additive, I now have clean diesel. In addition, I practice maintaining a full tank and never let it get below 3/4 full. Finally, I have also been told that a biocide will kill the algae. But when this happens, the dead critters go to the bottom of the tank. They build up down there in the space where the pick-up tube doesn't reach. Over time, this condition can produce a sludge that then becomes expensive to eliminate. This is from our local "experts" so take it for what it's worth. The proof in the pudding, though, is that I have never experienced a dirty fuel related problem. Running out of the stuff, however, is another story. John Richard s/v Jack's Place
My view is that an ounce of prevention is worth a ton of very expensive cure. Several months ago I began to see some blue smoke immediately after starting the motor. It would go away after warm up and running the engine at cruising speed. I was advised by our local Yanmar dealer to use a fuel additive called Pri-D. I realize this is not a biocide, per se, but it has helped to eliminate the blue smoke I used to see. It is my understanding that blue smoke can be the by-product of clogged injectors. I now have all but eliminated the smoke. I have only seen algae in the Racor see-into bowl one time. Since using the additive, I now have clean diesel. In addition, I practice maintaining a full tank and never let it get below 3/4 full. Finally, I have also been told that a biocide will kill the algae. But when this happens, the dead critters go to the bottom of the tank. They build up down there in the space where the pick-up tube doesn't reach. Over time, this condition can produce a sludge that then becomes expensive to eliminate. This is from our local "experts" so take it for what it's worth. The proof in the pudding, though, is that I have never experienced a dirty fuel related problem. Running out of the stuff, however, is another story. John Richard s/v Jack's Place
Water Remover
If you are going to put in the biocide you might as well spend the money on a water remover as well. Actually the water remover is more important. This is where the bacteria live and get their start. There are several water removers on the market. A non-alchohol is best. One manufacturer is FPPF. Remove the water, remove where the bacteria live, no more bacteria....
If you are going to put in the biocide you might as well spend the money on a water remover as well. Actually the water remover is more important. This is where the bacteria live and get their start. There are several water removers on the market. A non-alchohol is best. One manufacturer is FPPF. Remove the water, remove where the bacteria live, no more bacteria....
Additives
All the comments on this subject leed to the conclusion - "if it's not broken - don't fix it". That said, this is what works for me. First, use the best, cleanest, highest cetane diesel you can find. Second, use a funnel water filter when filling the tank. Third, use Power Service Products, Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost as directed. Fourth, use Bio-Bor Jr. as directed. Fifth, keep the tank full. Doing all these things has killed the algae and cleaned the fuel. The engine starts well even in the winter and has more power. As I said it works for me and as long as it does, I'll keep doing it.
All the comments on this subject leed to the conclusion - "if it's not broken - don't fix it". That said, this is what works for me. First, use the best, cleanest, highest cetane diesel you can find. Second, use a funnel water filter when filling the tank. Third, use Power Service Products, Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost as directed. Fourth, use Bio-Bor Jr. as directed. Fifth, keep the tank full. Doing all these things has killed the algae and cleaned the fuel. The engine starts well even in the winter and has more power. As I said it works for me and as long as it does, I'll keep doing it.
The reason water remover is better
Is it removes the moisture that allows bacteria to live. That way, you don't have to worry about killing the bugs and then removing the carcasses later. A dry system is your best bet. The money is better spent on that than cetane enhancers or biocides whick kill the bugs but leave the carcasses.
Is it removes the moisture that allows bacteria to live. That way, you don't have to worry about killing the bugs and then removing the carcasses later. A dry system is your best bet. The money is better spent on that than cetane enhancers or biocides whick kill the bugs but leave the carcasses.
Fuel Additives
Per a course on Yanmar engines given by Norton Yacht Sales, we were told to use 4 FPPF additives with every fuel fill to provide maximum engine performance and service life expectancy .... ( No. I don't believe that they get a kick back from FPPF....) 1 - Cetaine booster 2 - Lubricity + ... (low sulfur diesel fuel sold today neither lubricates nor provides enough of a cetaine rating for best engine performance) 3 - "Killum" biocide... (we were advised not to use bio-bar, as it contains alcohol and will gradually cause deterioration of engine seals) 4 - Water dispersant .. (doesn't "remove" water. It helps emulsify the water into the fuel so that it passes thru the engine and is eliminated with the exhaust products ... but, OK; I guess the net effect is the same.) Is it really worth adding this "stuff" ? Well ... its your engine, your money and your opinion. Personally, I'd rather add a few extra dollars to each fuel fill and hope that what they say is true. After 4 years and 1600 engine hours, my 4JH2 runs like it did when it was brand new... and I'd like to keep it that way, (ala John Richard's first line)...
Per a course on Yanmar engines given by Norton Yacht Sales, we were told to use 4 FPPF additives with every fuel fill to provide maximum engine performance and service life expectancy .... ( No. I don't believe that they get a kick back from FPPF....) 1 - Cetaine booster 2 - Lubricity + ... (low sulfur diesel fuel sold today neither lubricates nor provides enough of a cetaine rating for best engine performance) 3 - "Killum" biocide... (we were advised not to use bio-bar, as it contains alcohol and will gradually cause deterioration of engine seals) 4 - Water dispersant .. (doesn't "remove" water. It helps emulsify the water into the fuel so that it passes thru the engine and is eliminated with the exhaust products ... but, OK; I guess the net effect is the same.) Is it really worth adding this "stuff" ? Well ... its your engine, your money and your opinion. Personally, I'd rather add a few extra dollars to each fuel fill and hope that what they say is true. After 4 years and 1600 engine hours, my 4JH2 runs like it did when it was brand new... and I'd like to keep it that way, (ala John Richard's first line)...
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