Diesel Fuel Biocide
- Thread starter srojoe
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I've been using
Valv-Tech "Biogard" for years. Same bottle I bought about 5 yrs ago. This stuff lasts about as long a bottle of dry vermouth. Use it sparingly. While one can't prove a negative, I have had no noticeable growth in my fuel.
Valv-Tech "Biogard" for years. Same bottle I bought about 5 yrs ago. This stuff lasts about as long a bottle of dry vermouth. Use it sparingly. While one can't prove a negative, I have had no noticeable growth in my fuel.
I personally like the enzyme
Startron that we sell on this site. We also offer PRI-G and PRI-D which have been around a long time and are proven products. I've used the Startron for 4 years here in the NW and have never had fuel problems; it has substantially reduced engine smoking as well. http://shop.sailboatowners.com/category.htm?fno=400&cat=2618 Dave Groshong Customer Service SailboatOwners.com
Startron that we sell on this site. We also offer PRI-G and PRI-D which have been around a long time and are proven products. I've used the Startron for 4 years here in the NW and have never had fuel problems; it has substantially reduced engine smoking as well. http://shop.sailboatowners.com/category.htm?fno=400&cat=2618 Dave Groshong Customer Service SailboatOwners.com
startron
Startron is currently rated as one of the best diesel fuel additives. It is available at most auto parts stores.
Startron is currently rated as one of the best diesel fuel additives. It is available at most auto parts stores.
biocides
The only time I use any fuel additives is when I store my boat for the winter. I read an article about bacteria in diesel fuel. Actually the bacteria forms only if there is water mixed in with the fuel. I have a diesel in my sailboat but I try to use the engine enough to be able to replenish the fuel at least 5 times during the sailing season.
The only time I use any fuel additives is when I store my boat for the winter. I read an article about bacteria in diesel fuel. Actually the bacteria forms only if there is water mixed in with the fuel. I have a diesel in my sailboat but I try to use the engine enough to be able to replenish the fuel at least 5 times during the sailing season.
all the same?
I can't help wonder if the only difference is the color and name on the label. To be a biocide, they must all be enzymes. What's the difference(s) between them?
I can't help wonder if the only difference is the color and name on the label. To be a biocide, they must all be enzymes. What's the difference(s) between them?
Biocide Might Already Be There
Some fuel docks (mine included) sell fuel that already contains a Biocide. Adding additional Biocide is not required or recommended. See link below.
Some fuel docks (mine included) sell fuel that already contains a Biocide. Adding additional Biocide is not required or recommended. See link below.
Jim, He's asking about Biocides/Enzymes
Not Bio-Fuel or Bio-Diesel http://www.biodiesel.org/resources/faqs/default.shtm. If its a blended Bio-Diesel (no more than 20% you shouldn't have to worry about your fuel lines or rubber (This address some of that issue http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_files/fuelfactsheets/Myths_Facts.pdf) . BUT Bio-Diesel does have cleansing attributes that have to be considered . The quote Below is from the website "Biodiesel has a solvent effect that may release deposits accumulated on tank walls and pipes from previous diesel fuel storage. The release of deposits may clog filters initially and precautions should be taken" The original question on biocides which are used in controlling the growth of bacteria and fungi in fuel. As to the original question I am not sure about which product is the best, or whether they are basically the same. As was mentioned before, "Pri-D" seems like a good Diesel Additive so I would think their biocide called "PRI-OCIDE" is pretty good too. The other Biocides I have seen is "Racor" (the fuel filter manufacturer http://www.priproducts.com/priocide.htm
Not Bio-Fuel or Bio-Diesel http://www.biodiesel.org/resources/faqs/default.shtm. If its a blended Bio-Diesel (no more than 20% you shouldn't have to worry about your fuel lines or rubber (This address some of that issue http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_files/fuelfactsheets/Myths_Facts.pdf) . BUT Bio-Diesel does have cleansing attributes that have to be considered . The quote Below is from the website "Biodiesel has a solvent effect that may release deposits accumulated on tank walls and pipes from previous diesel fuel storage. The release of deposits may clog filters initially and precautions should be taken" The original question on biocides which are used in controlling the growth of bacteria and fungi in fuel. As to the original question I am not sure about which product is the best, or whether they are basically the same. As was mentioned before, "Pri-D" seems like a good Diesel Additive so I would think their biocide called "PRI-OCIDE" is pretty good too. The other Biocides I have seen is "Racor" (the fuel filter manufacturer http://www.priproducts.com/priocide.htm
ULSD seems to grow less bugs
I've only used about 15 gallons but the ULSD seems to stay clean longer. They wash the diesel to remove the sulfur. I bet that they also remove nitrogen and phosphorus. For teh Non-Biologist all life needs nitrogen ,phosphorus and potassium (and some other things in smaller amounts) to live and grow. By depriving the bugs of these nutrients you stop their growth. But after all summer (since march) my fuel filter is clean with NO sediment or water in the bowl. I also keep my tank less than half full so that my fuel has less time to age. Also since washing the diesel with water removes water soluble material the ULSD may actually have less water content.
I've only used about 15 gallons but the ULSD seems to stay clean longer. They wash the diesel to remove the sulfur. I bet that they also remove nitrogen and phosphorus. For teh Non-Biologist all life needs nitrogen ,phosphorus and potassium (and some other things in smaller amounts) to live and grow. By depriving the bugs of these nutrients you stop their growth. But after all summer (since march) my fuel filter is clean with NO sediment or water in the bowl. I also keep my tank less than half full so that my fuel has less time to age. Also since washing the diesel with water removes water soluble material the ULSD may actually have less water content.
You NEED a biocide ......
Bacterial and fungal growth in diesel fuels is a well known and established fact. The 'problem' is that although when cracked and distilled at super high tempedratures which yields a very dehydrated fluid, shipment, storage etc. allows 'moisture uptake' to occur by chemical equilibrium. The principal species of contamination in fuel oil (regardless of sulphur content) is pseudomonas aeroginosa (bacteria) and Cladosporium resinae (fungus). Essentially they are 'activated' in fuel oil in the presence of WATER. Water in fuel oil is in TWO forms: free water, that which eventually falls to the bottom of a tank by gravimetric settling; emulsified water - that which is held in equilibrium 'between the molecules of the fuel'. These bio-species in the presence of WATER, use the fuel (carbon) as their nutrient sources, and then by cell division - multiply. Their products of decomposition (when they 'die') is what forms the 'sludge' and the 'resin' that adheres to the tank walls, etc. So, you either need a means to continually remove the two forms of water from the fuel, prevent the water from being 'equilibrated' into the fuel OR need a biocide to prevent/retard the growth. The longer the fuel is in contact with the ATMOSPHERE (the VENT on your tank) the more the need for separation or biocide. Free Water can be removed by periodically draining it from the tank (nearly impossible to do on a 'boat tank' - as CG RULES prevent a tank 'bottom drain') or by 'catching it' in the separator section of a Racor, etc. filter (with integral separator) or by the use of a 'water blocking filter media' very uncommon in (boat) fuel oil filters. Emulsified water usually only is removed by large filters that contain a 'water absorbing starch' (hydroxymethyl-cellulose, etc.). OR a desiccant filter is added to the VENT to prevent the moisture 'uptake' (by chemical equilibrium) .... but that only removes water to -40deg. 'dewpoint'. ... since by 'common means' its virtually impossible to keep fuel oil (exposed to the atmosphere) water free .... YOU NEED BIOCIDE, especially if you store the fuel 'long term'. ANY diesel fuel compatible BIOCIDE will do. A tank that is full will absorb MORE water than a tank that is nearly empty .... its all governed by chemical 'equilibrium'. If the tank has a VENT, it WILL 'uptake' water. Filling a tank to prevent 'condensation' is simply BS. ANY fuel oil compatible BIOCIDE will do. I run a 'sophisticated' tank system .... it includes a desiccant filter and a 2,5µM particle filter capsule on the VENT .... lessens the water uptake and filters out the fungal spores. Plus I run an onboard polishing system with an integral (free) water knockout. pot
Bacterial and fungal growth in diesel fuels is a well known and established fact. The 'problem' is that although when cracked and distilled at super high tempedratures which yields a very dehydrated fluid, shipment, storage etc. allows 'moisture uptake' to occur by chemical equilibrium. The principal species of contamination in fuel oil (regardless of sulphur content) is pseudomonas aeroginosa (bacteria) and Cladosporium resinae (fungus). Essentially they are 'activated' in fuel oil in the presence of WATER. Water in fuel oil is in TWO forms: free water, that which eventually falls to the bottom of a tank by gravimetric settling; emulsified water - that which is held in equilibrium 'between the molecules of the fuel'. These bio-species in the presence of WATER, use the fuel (carbon) as their nutrient sources, and then by cell division - multiply. Their products of decomposition (when they 'die') is what forms the 'sludge' and the 'resin' that adheres to the tank walls, etc. So, you either need a means to continually remove the two forms of water from the fuel, prevent the water from being 'equilibrated' into the fuel OR need a biocide to prevent/retard the growth. The longer the fuel is in contact with the ATMOSPHERE (the VENT on your tank) the more the need for separation or biocide. Free Water can be removed by periodically draining it from the tank (nearly impossible to do on a 'boat tank' - as CG RULES prevent a tank 'bottom drain') or by 'catching it' in the separator section of a Racor, etc. filter (with integral separator) or by the use of a 'water blocking filter media' very uncommon in (boat) fuel oil filters. Emulsified water usually only is removed by large filters that contain a 'water absorbing starch' (hydroxymethyl-cellulose, etc.). OR a desiccant filter is added to the VENT to prevent the moisture 'uptake' (by chemical equilibrium) .... but that only removes water to -40deg. 'dewpoint'. ... since by 'common means' its virtually impossible to keep fuel oil (exposed to the atmosphere) water free .... YOU NEED BIOCIDE, especially if you store the fuel 'long term'. ANY diesel fuel compatible BIOCIDE will do. A tank that is full will absorb MORE water than a tank that is nearly empty .... its all governed by chemical 'equilibrium'. If the tank has a VENT, it WILL 'uptake' water. Filling a tank to prevent 'condensation' is simply BS. ANY fuel oil compatible BIOCIDE will do. I run a 'sophisticated' tank system .... it includes a desiccant filter and a 2,5µM particle filter capsule on the VENT .... lessens the water uptake and filters out the fungal spores. Plus I run an onboard polishing system with an integral (free) water knockout. pot
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