Diesel Engine Help!!

[paiscool]

I have a 1995 Catalina 320 with a Westerbeke 30B diesel engine with 208 hours.
Recently I started the engine,(which had not been started for a while) and it ran at idle for awhile.Then it kinda of vibrated and made a noise like thunking and then quit.
I attempted to restart the engine and it turns over but doesnt start anymore.I changed the diesel fuel filter.Turned the engine over and it still wouldnt start. I took the filter bowl off and checked and the fuel bowl filled with diesel.
I am not all that smart about diesel engines so anyone who has any knowledge of where I should look, I would be very grateful of you could share any insights with me.Someone told me it sounded like fuel problems.I do know that the Westerbeke 30B is supposed to be self bleeding as far as air goes.
Thanks to anyone who can help

 

[Ralph18422]

Fuel pump?

Check your fuel pump. When you turn your key, your fuel pump should be clicking.
---If it is not, pull the leads and attach to a known source of 12V power. If it clicks then check your oil pressure switch (since it is most likely inline with your fuel pump circuit) If it doesn't click your pump is shot and you need a new one.
---If your pump is clicking, bleed your system again

Hope this helps,

 

[Benny17441]

The majority of problems resulting in a diesel engine not starting are fuel related. It seems your fuel system may have a small leak allowing air to enter the lines. Small leaks that are rarelly detected on an engine used every day become more apparent when an engine sits for a long while. You will need to bleed the air out of the lines and the injector pump. Is that "self bleeding" for certain functions like replacing filters? I doubt very much if the engine used up all the fuel in the injector pump that it will bleed itself. Follow the engine manufacturer's instruction for bleeding the system. I personally prefer to use the engine starter to turn the engine and activate the lift pump as it will push fuel and clear out the air faster. Once you get the engine running is now a matter of determining how often does it need to be run to prevent air problems or just go hunting for the leak.

 

[rardiH36]

Hi:
I don't have a lot of diesel troubleshooting experience, but your description of the malfunction is similar to a stopped running and wouldn't restart situation I had several months ago with my Yanmar. Granted a different engine and much older than your 1995 Westerbeke. As already very well described by Benny and Ralph for me it was a fuel delivery problem. While out near the Golden Gate Bridge, only 1/4 tank fuel level plus wave chop probably caused a pickup of some air with the fuel. The rpms gradually dropped over a 10-15 second period. Then the engine died and wouldn't restart. Fortunately I was able to sail to a safe anchor spot. Bleeding according to the Yanmar procedure eventually enabled me to motor to my slip. But afterward, just in case it was more than a low fuel level (1/4 tank = 7.5 gallons shouldn't have been that low), I decided it was time to replace all the fuel lines and replace the fuel line component fitting copper compression washers. Only evident when removed from the boat was that one fuel hose did have evidence of cracking. Maybe enough to let some air into the system. Anyway, after the project, I have noticed that the engine runs with a lot less vibration and is noticeably smoother than anytime in the previous four years since I bought my boat. So it's possible that a little air was always entering the fuel system causing the injectors to deliver inconsistent fuel atomization to the cylinders.

 

[kenn]

Yanmar diesels have manual bleed pumps on their starboard side. After changing filters, we'd crack the bleed screw at the secondary filter and pump away at that little pump and just about at the time you think your thumb would fall off (90 to 150 seconds), the fuel would finally flow.

I recall that Westerbekes had 12v solenoid-type fuel pumps, so we just had to turn the engine 12v on, and the pump would do the rest. So if the fuel system is intact, when you turn the engine power on, you should hear the fuel pump run for maybe 2 min maximum then stop. I can't recall if there was a bleed screw you could open to confirm fuel flow, but the Westie manual should cover all this.

 

[kloudie1]

Some of the Westerbekes have a 20 Amp circuit breaker that mounts on the engine .. It is not obvious whether it is tripped or not.. Check with a voltmeter .. I think it is necessary to turn on the fuel pump..

 

[Dan Johnson]

Westerbekes...

Am under the impression that Westys are "self-bleeders". Suspect the post about air leaks in the delivery line (have found cracks in mine under the hose clamps) or Kloudie's reference to the fuse issue may be the solution (assuming that all electrical components are working)...

 

[okawbow]

fuel problem

Sounds like you may have ran out of fuel. Do you have a fuel shut off? Could your fuel tank breather line be plugged? if not, are you getting fuel to the lift pump?

 

[zeehag]

whenever mine needed to be bled, it didnt make any kind of funny clunking noises-- i hope there isnt another problem much more serious....

 

[paiscool]

Thanks for everyones input

I do know that the Westie is self bleeding because it has a 12v fuel pump.
I havent had a chance to check the fuel pump yet but I did buy another 12v pump just in case.
The tank is full and has treatment.Also I checked the Racor and saw no water,I changed the Westie fuel filter and the bowl refilled when started after the replacement.
I will get out there in a week and I will try all the options suggested.Thanks

 

[Deadline]

The guy in the next slip will show you how to bleed. Otherwise, I concur it could be sludge in the bottom of the tank. See Archives for posts on how to polish (clean) the fuel. No big deal and not expensive.