Has anyone had success with Valvtect Diesel Guard, a seemingly all-purpose additive to clean injector deposits, reduce smoke, and minimize transom soot?
Diesel additive
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Snake oil
I am usually very suspicious of these types of additives. It seems to me the best way to keep injectors clean is to keep filters fresh. Reducing soot is best acheived by proper prop choice and finding a good cruising speed for your engine. I do use a bio-cide, as I have had algea in my fuel.
I am usually very suspicious of these types of additives. It seems to me the best way to keep injectors clean is to keep filters fresh. Reducing soot is best acheived by proper prop choice and finding a good cruising speed for your engine. I do use a bio-cide, as I have had algea in my fuel.
Yanmar training class
At a Yanmar training class sponsored by MackBoring, the instructor described how diesel fuel sold in the U.S. differed from that sold elsewhere in that it's cetane level was less. As a result, the instructor recommended cetane booster be used with every fillup.
At a Yanmar training class sponsored by MackBoring, the instructor described how diesel fuel sold in the U.S. differed from that sold elsewhere in that it's cetane level was less. As a result, the instructor recommended cetane booster be used with every fillup.
I wonder why Kenworth, Volvo, Freightliner,
International-Harvester, Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, Ford, General Motors, Caterpillar, Case, and so many others allow that. My Volvo engine calls for automotive diesel and makes no reference to any additives.
International-Harvester, Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, Ford, General Motors, Caterpillar, Case, and so many others allow that. My Volvo engine calls for automotive diesel and makes no reference to any additives.
Friend's idea for injector cleaning
When replacing the racor filter, fill it up with injector cleaner instead of diesel fuel - cleans the injectors, unused gets returned to the tank, plus it reduces air in the systm and hassles with bleeding We use bio-cide and water zorb
When replacing the racor filter, fill it up with injector cleaner instead of diesel fuel - cleans the injectors, unused gets returned to the tank, plus it reduces air in the systm and hassles with bleeding We use bio-cide and water zorb
Ross
Ross I'm no diesel expert and only repeated what I heard. The only difference between all the mfgs you listed and a marine engine is that marine engines operate virtually at full load almost constantly whereas trucks and cars do not. I recall him describing that and since he/his company has no vested interest in fuel or additives thereto, I thought it worthwhile to repeat.
Ross I'm no diesel expert and only repeated what I heard. The only difference between all the mfgs you listed and a marine engine is that marine engines operate virtually at full load almost constantly whereas trucks and cars do not. I recall him describing that and since he/his company has no vested interest in fuel or additives thereto, I thought it worthwhile to repeat.
I've noticed a drop in
cetane levels where I usually buy diesel from 45 to 40. I assume this is due to the ULSD (15 ppm sulphur)fuel now being used just about every where. I have used, and continue to use, a bit of cetane booster to my fuel, along with a bit of the multi-purpose "Pri-D" that is recommended by just about every diesel mechanic I know.
cetane levels where I usually buy diesel from 45 to 40. I assume this is due to the ULSD (15 ppm sulphur)fuel now being used just about every where. I have used, and continue to use, a bit of cetane booster to my fuel, along with a bit of the multi-purpose "Pri-D" that is recommended by just about every diesel mechanic I know.
Over Propped if Diesel at Full Load!!!!
Your prop should allow maximum RPMs under normal conditions. If your diesel is operating normally under full load it will ruin the engine. I think that the normal load for a diesel should be about 75% . I have never heard of special specifications for marine diesel fuel. But I confess I usually add biocide and cetane booster/lubricant additives. But even when I am pouring the cetane booster/lubricant into the tank I know that I am probably wasting my money. My thought is that since I only use a gallon/month or less that my cetane might be dropping with time. I added five gallons back in March and still have almost 1/2 a tank. I will try to burn up some of that when we vacation the middle of October. What is the theory of injector cleaners??? Are they solvents or do they make the fuel burn hotter??? Also isn't cetane most important for a cold engine??? Higher cetane helps it start cold but has much less effect once the engine is warm.
Your prop should allow maximum RPMs under normal conditions. If your diesel is operating normally under full load it will ruin the engine. I think that the normal load for a diesel should be about 75% . I have never heard of special specifications for marine diesel fuel. But I confess I usually add biocide and cetane booster/lubricant additives. But even when I am pouring the cetane booster/lubricant into the tank I know that I am probably wasting my money. My thought is that since I only use a gallon/month or less that my cetane might be dropping with time. I added five gallons back in March and still have almost 1/2 a tank. I will try to burn up some of that when we vacation the middle of October. What is the theory of injector cleaners??? Are they solvents or do they make the fuel burn hotter??? Also isn't cetane most important for a cold engine??? Higher cetane helps it start cold but has much less effect once the engine is warm.
Cetane/ addatives
First I must admit to not being an expert on the subject. But I do use some additives. I regularly use a bio-cide, and a cetane booster/injector cleaner. Usally switching every other tank, bio-cide, injector cleaner. I use a cetane booster which supposedly has some injector cleaning properties. But, I also use my engine more than most. Since Katrina and our bridge problems here, I usually have to motor a long day to get out of the lake, via the ICW, and a day getting back. I do run the engine around 2600-2800, which seems to be it's comfort zone. Full throttle for the 3GMD is 3400, so I do run it a little under the recommended 80%, but this gives me close to hull speed, and the little Yanmar seems happy there.
First I must admit to not being an expert on the subject. But I do use some additives. I regularly use a bio-cide, and a cetane booster/injector cleaner. Usally switching every other tank, bio-cide, injector cleaner. I use a cetane booster which supposedly has some injector cleaning properties. But, I also use my engine more than most. Since Katrina and our bridge problems here, I usually have to motor a long day to get out of the lake, via the ICW, and a day getting back. I do run the engine around 2600-2800, which seems to be it's comfort zone. Full throttle for the 3GMD is 3400, so I do run it a little under the recommended 80%, but this gives me close to hull speed, and the little Yanmar seems happy there.
As I noted in my post below,
the cetane ratings for the diesel I buy is now 40. I just found the reference in the Yanmar 2GM20F manual that calls for a cetane rating of 45 for that engine. See link. Not sure if other similar diesels also call for the same cetane rating. Best to check your manual.
the cetane ratings for the diesel I buy is now 40. I just found the reference in the Yanmar 2GM20F manual that calls for a cetane rating of 45 for that engine. See link. Not sure if other similar diesels also call for the same cetane rating. Best to check your manual.
I use valvtect
The valvtect Helps with soot and algea My PO used it so I still use it, but it helps to keep the RPMs up .I use lucis fuel treatment and it allso helps. John
The valvtect Helps with soot and algea My PO used it so I still use it, but it helps to keep the RPMs up .I use lucis fuel treatment and it allso helps. John
Lubricity
Again, no expert here. Attended Mack Boring class and have a couple of diesel delivery trucks for my business. Because of class, I add Cetane 8+ and a biocide. Because of extra processing of ULSD removes some of the lubricating qualities of the fuel (this from several different sources including a call to Mack Boring & my truck diesel mechanic)I add Stanadyne Lubricity Formula for the benefit of the high pressure injector pump. I'm on the fence about the Cetane +, but the bio & lub are necessary, IMHO. Overall, for the amount of fuel I use, the cost of additives is peanuts. BTW Mack Boring class said DO NOT use oil additives. Note: I typically add 5 to 10 gallons at a time because as a sailor I don't use much. Additives are a PIA at those volumes (the biocide uses very little)so I bought a dozen 2oz plastic bottles and a measuring beaker from McMaster Carr. Mix enough additive for 50 gallons of fuel (~20 oz total)and fill 10 bottles. More precisely measured, no dripping on the deck trying to pour a smidgen out of a quart bottle.
Again, no expert here. Attended Mack Boring class and have a couple of diesel delivery trucks for my business. Because of class, I add Cetane 8+ and a biocide. Because of extra processing of ULSD removes some of the lubricating qualities of the fuel (this from several different sources including a call to Mack Boring & my truck diesel mechanic)I add Stanadyne Lubricity Formula for the benefit of the high pressure injector pump. I'm on the fence about the Cetane +, but the bio & lub are necessary, IMHO. Overall, for the amount of fuel I use, the cost of additives is peanuts. BTW Mack Boring class said DO NOT use oil additives. Note: I typically add 5 to 10 gallons at a time because as a sailor I don't use much. Additives are a PIA at those volumes (the biocide uses very little)so I bought a dozen 2oz plastic bottles and a measuring beaker from McMaster Carr. Mix enough additive for 50 gallons of fuel (~20 oz total)and fill 10 bottles. More precisely measured, no dripping on the deck trying to pour a smidgen out of a quart bottle.
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