Did you know ...

Don S/V ILLusion · Apr 21, 2016

Perhaps someone will advise - I thought the conventional wisdom is that plastic thruhulls should be routinely 'exercised' to ensure operation and that lubrication was both unnecessary and ineffective (although I can't see how it would hurt).

Given the choice, I would always prefer non-plastic valves which intuitively seem stronger while being as easily maintained.

Stu Jackson · Apr 21, 2016

Yes, I knew. Everyone should, but thanks for bringing it up. Maybe more will elarn.

You NEED to KNOW what valve you have and how they are made. There are different Marelon valves that have been used over the years. For lack of better or formal phrasing, there are "OEM" valves provided to builders and "regular" valves that were used earlier and also sold on the market.

This may help you understand how some are built and what to look out for:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.msg33347.html#msg33347

Benny17441 · Apr 21, 2016

That is the reason why we never stop learning about boats, they keep changing things on us.

KZW · Apr 24, 2016

ToddL214 said:
...it's recommended your thru-hull valves be lubricated each year? I didn't but I understand why now.

When I opened the sink drain thru-hull in the head yesterday the handle came off in my hand and water started coming into the boat from the hole where the handle had been attached.

The situation stabilized when I discovered I could hold the handle in it's intended position and still move the valve back to closed. It felt like it was "geared". I'm not sure whether there was more anxiety after the water was stopped or before; this valve isn't the "stiff one" of my SIX!

I later learned that the white plug in the valve handle with the loop in it's top fits as a plug in the thru-hull opening, (from the outside). The loop in the top of the plug is to tie it to a line as a retriever/retainer so you don't have to go swimming a second time to take the plug out.

I'm still working out the details for changing out the broken valve and lubricating each valve while the boat's afloat.

If you weren't aware before you may wish to put thru-hull valve lubrication on your annual maintenance checklist and if you're cruising consider a spare valve as part of your parts inventory and some parachute cord as a plug retriever/retainer if you ever need it.

Todd L.

So, take the while plug out of the handle, put it in the through hull from the outside, tying a line to something so it doesn't disappear, remove the through hull, lubricate it, and put the whole thing back???
I've been cycling all my through hulls six times each month during monthly maintenance. Twice a year I take a dowel with a dab of superlube gel on it, push it into the through hull (from the outside) until it contacts the through hull, mash it down, and then operate the through hull. It seems to work, but I'm sure I will be told how to do it better in the next post.

Go ahead Stu, I know you want to, and I will learn something - you've not steered me wrong yet!

marchem · Apr 27, 2016

KZW said:
So, take the while plug out of the handle, put it in the through hull from the outside, tying a line to something so it doesn't disappear, remove the through hull, lubricate it, and put the whole thing back???
I've been cycling all my through hulls six times each month during monthly maintenance. Twice a year I take a dowel with a dab of superlube gel on it, push it into the through hull (from the outside) until it contacts the through hull, mash it down, and then operate the through hull. It seems to work, but I'm sure I will be told how to do it better in the next post.

Go ahead Stu, I know you want to, and I will learn something - you've not steered me wrong yet!

From the outside? Of course, Florida!!

BC Bernie · Oct 22, 2017

I have never done the lube before. Bought the Marelube paste. Does anyone know if it can be done with the boat in the water?

KZW · Oct 22, 2017

I pull the seacocks and lube them whenever the boat is out of the water for a bottom job. I'm not willing to take the seacocks off with the boat in the water. The one for the sink and the one for the A/C are just a real pain to reach. I do use a dowel and lube them from the outside every six months. I use Superlube gel. Seems to work well. I dive on the boat on the first weekend of the month to clean the hull and prop. (Sometimes I skip January and February).

marchem · Oct 23, 2017

I sent an email to Forespar asking them what size the o-rings are for the Series 93 Marelon valves on our C310 (and probably most C310s). In reply they sent me a bunch of rebuild kits and a tube of Marlube, no charge. While the boat was hauled out two weeks ago I pulled all of the handles off, cleaned everything, put new greased o-rings in, and got as much Marelube on the ball as I could while operating the valve. Here's the instructions they sent with the parts.

I'm still working of the o-ring sizes. Doesn't hurt to have a few of them on hand, just in case....

marchem · Oct 23, 2017

BC Bernie said:
I have never done the lube before. Bought the Marelube paste. Does anyone know if it can be done with the boat in the water?

Sure. The best way is to stick the white plug (or similar) in from outside. Then you can take off the hose and exercise the valve while applying lube. You could also apply the lube from the outside, with a dowel or similar. But not so easy in cold water. You can also leave the valve closed, remove the hose, stick some grease on the exposed ball, put the hose back on, and exercise the valve. Not as effective, but better than nothing.

JimInPB · Oct 23, 2017

I'm thinking that a plug with a Zerk fitting in the middle of it might be a handy addition to the tool box.

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