84 H31 My first attempt to get the starboard fixed port out, and....you guessed it.....5200, about a tube of it globbed everywhere. Just got back from the emergency room getting my hand stitched up from the knife slipping while wrestling 5200. I removed the screws from the inside trim, and cracked it up a bit getting it off. I can't get the outside trim off, and I think I know why. I suspect that the frame and the outside trim are molded together, thus, the frame might wrap around the lexan, and then slips into the cut out from the outside of the boat. Am I way off here? Hope to get some help from you guys so as to tackle it again after my hand mends. Would kill for some pictures. Thanks much
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fixed ports
Gary, I took mine out and I sympathze if yours are he same, it just took perseverance. I used a thin knife, and slit between the frame and the hull, and then a razor knife and slit between the frame and the cutout on the inside. The frames around the plexi are fused together in two places, I used a thin coping saw blade and split the fused area. Ibce again it took some patience and a sharp knife between the plexi and the fram to seperate the two. Once done, I cut new lexan and used silicone in the frame to hold the plexi (it just fills the void in the recesses of the frame. I used 101 to put the frames with the new lexan back in. I used white (tinted) epoxy to fuse the frames back together before putting them in. Sorry I didnt take pictures
Gary, I took mine out and I sympathze if yours are he same, it just took perseverance. I used a thin knife, and slit between the frame and the hull, and then a razor knife and slit between the frame and the cutout on the inside. The frames around the plexi are fused together in two places, I used a thin coping saw blade and split the fused area. Ibce again it took some patience and a sharp knife between the plexi and the fram to seperate the two. Once done, I cut new lexan and used silicone in the frame to hold the plexi (it just fills the void in the recesses of the frame. I used 101 to put the frames with the new lexan back in. I used white (tinted) epoxy to fuse the frames back together before putting them in. Sorry I didnt take pictures
fixed frames
marks plastics can make replacent frames, I removed mine by running fishing line through the and just popping them out, resealed with boatlife and no leaks!
marks plastics can make replacent frames, I removed mine by running fishing line through the and just popping them out, resealed with boatlife and no leaks!
Got it out. What do you think? Pic
Managed to get it out in spite of bandaged hand. Do not like what I found......plywood core was worst than I thought. Now what? I read in the archives that someone used "marine tex" to fill the void where rotten plywood was. Once that's done, I am inclined to have a new lexan window cut oversized and mount it on the outside of the deck (I've seen this done in archives). Then, mill some teak trim to trim out the inside. This way I can ditch the frames, and cheap plastic trim, which is broken now anyway. Ideas appreciated.
Managed to get it out in spite of bandaged hand. Do not like what I found......plywood core was worst than I thought. Now what? I read in the archives that someone used "marine tex" to fill the void where rotten plywood was. Once that's done, I am inclined to have a new lexan window cut oversized and mount it on the outside of the deck (I've seen this done in archives). Then, mill some teak trim to trim out the inside. This way I can ditch the frames, and cheap plastic trim, which is broken now anyway. Ideas appreciated.
That's the way to go
Remove what you can of the rotten wood core. Then pickup some MinWax wood hardener @ your local home center and a bunch throw away brushes. MinWax wood hardener it like super glue, keep appyling till the wood core won't take any more. MinWax wood hardener will make the punky wood core rock hard. C-clamp around the opening to bring the fiberglass back to original width and fill with a expoy filler. I used automotive body filler "Bondo". The upper section was a little tricky, used duct tape to hold Bondo up till it set. File and sand smooth and refill where needed. Make up some outside corner wood trim to fit flush with the outside fiberglass. Make up a cardboard templet that will fit your area and have ports made out of smoke lexon, I used 3/8". Get some black contact paper larger then your new lexon ports. Apply contact paper first to the outside, placed lexon over contact paper and trim to match. This will keep the smoke color of the lexon uniform after the install. Predrill all holes for your screws. Masking tape around inside and outside for easy cleanup. Apply sealant to boat and screw evenly but not tight. Let sealant setup overnight, then tighten down. Use a razor knife to trim sealant (WATCH THOSE FINGERS!) and remove masking tape.
Remove what you can of the rotten wood core. Then pickup some MinWax wood hardener @ your local home center and a bunch throw away brushes. MinWax wood hardener it like super glue, keep appyling till the wood core won't take any more. MinWax wood hardener will make the punky wood core rock hard. C-clamp around the opening to bring the fiberglass back to original width and fill with a expoy filler. I used automotive body filler "Bondo". The upper section was a little tricky, used duct tape to hold Bondo up till it set. File and sand smooth and refill where needed. Make up some outside corner wood trim to fit flush with the outside fiberglass. Make up a cardboard templet that will fit your area and have ports made out of smoke lexon, I used 3/8". Get some black contact paper larger then your new lexon ports. Apply contact paper first to the outside, placed lexon over contact paper and trim to match. This will keep the smoke color of the lexon uniform after the install. Predrill all holes for your screws. Masking tape around inside and outside for easy cleanup. Apply sealant to boat and screw evenly but not tight. Let sealant setup overnight, then tighten down. Use a razor knife to trim sealant (WATCH THOSE FINGERS!) and remove masking tape.
Patrick...Question
This is exactly what I was hoping to do. Great to see that it's doable. Questions....Did you "pour" the wood hardner into the hollow areas? Don't quite follow you on the contact paper. It would prevent a bond between the lexan and the deck, right? How did you square off the inside? Very neat job. Thanks for the help.....Gary
This is exactly what I was hoping to do. Great to see that it's doable. Questions....Did you "pour" the wood hardner into the hollow areas? Don't quite follow you on the contact paper. It would prevent a bond between the lexan and the deck, right? How did you square off the inside? Very neat job. Thanks for the help.....Gary
Ok here we go...
Wood hardner, that what the throw away brushes are for. Keep painting the plywood core with them. They also turn into rocks after 5 min. You'll need a few. Is your fix port plastic window the same size and shape as the opening? Mind was not. I started out with a square opening. The front part of my fix port covers the fiberglass of the cabin. Thats why I used the contact paper (vinyl) to hide the white of the fiberglass. Even if you use a black sealant, you'll see two tones of colors. Found that out the hard way. If you clean the fibergalss with acetone or MEK the sticky stuff on the contact paper will bond to the fiberglass. Mind has been on for 3 years now, no leaks. By the way we have talked before, issue of trapped water in bilge and where to drill.
Wood hardner, that what the throw away brushes are for. Keep painting the plywood core with them. They also turn into rocks after 5 min. You'll need a few. Is your fix port plastic window the same size and shape as the opening? Mind was not. I started out with a square opening. The front part of my fix port covers the fiberglass of the cabin. Thats why I used the contact paper (vinyl) to hide the white of the fiberglass. Even if you use a black sealant, you'll see two tones of colors. Found that out the hard way. If you clean the fibergalss with acetone or MEK the sticky stuff on the contact paper will bond to the fiberglass. Mind has been on for 3 years now, no leaks. By the way we have talked before, issue of trapped water in bilge and where to drill.
Yes, I've attended ........
the "Patrick course of H31 mods" before. You've always been a good source of info for which I'm grateful. Now......some of my hollow areas are "real hollow", and I don't know if I can reach the plywood with a brush. In these areas I might have to rely on filler. I see from your pic that your boat is a newer model ("U" shape setee) than my 84. My opening is the same "pointed" shape as the window. Didn't realize that the newer models had a square one. That's OK though, It'll just be a little more of a challenge cutting the trim. I see what you mean about the contact paper now. Thanks again....Gary
the "Patrick course of H31 mods" before. You've always been a good source of info for which I'm grateful. Now......some of my hollow areas are "real hollow", and I don't know if I can reach the plywood with a brush. In these areas I might have to rely on filler. I see from your pic that your boat is a newer model ("U" shape setee) than my 84. My opening is the same "pointed" shape as the window. Didn't realize that the newer models had a square one. That's OK though, It'll just be a little more of a challenge cutting the trim. I see what you mean about the contact paper now. Thanks again....Gary
Almost got it done....
Got one fixed port out, scraped out loose wood flakes and hardened the rest with wood hardener. Bondoed the void flush with the inside edge, and all worked pretty good. Will hopefully get the new plexiglas window installed tomorrow. For the archives, I think I found my worst leak......the screw holes that fasten the narrow teak strip that runs over the ports. I took it off and it will not go back on. It's just another thing to maintain when you could otherwise go sailing. I think I'll even forgo installing the striping down the side. I watered down the starboard side of the boat and NO LEAKS. Hope my luck holds up on the port side. Appreciate the help....Gary
Got one fixed port out, scraped out loose wood flakes and hardened the rest with wood hardener. Bondoed the void flush with the inside edge, and all worked pretty good. Will hopefully get the new plexiglas window installed tomorrow. For the archives, I think I found my worst leak......the screw holes that fasten the narrow teak strip that runs over the ports. I took it off and it will not go back on. It's just another thing to maintain when you could otherwise go sailing. I think I'll even forgo installing the striping down the side. I watered down the starboard side of the boat and NO LEAKS. Hope my luck holds up on the port side. Appreciate the help....Gary
Spray Hood Screws
Gary Also check your spray hood screw for tightness. Rain water will collect in a few low areas under the spray hood (right over the fix ports) if the screws are loose it leaks out the fix ports.
Gary Also check your spray hood screw for tightness. Rain water will collect in a few low areas under the spray hood (right over the fix ports) if the screws are loose it leaks out the fix ports.
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