Depth sounder

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Mark Miller

I need to replace a dead depth sounder on my Hunter 26.5. It has a through hull transducer. Is it possible and how do I change the transducer while the boat is in the water? Also are most depth sounder units that say dash mount ok to mount on the outside in the cockpit? Any ideas??
 
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Doug

Thru hull

Two kinds of transducers. Transom mount, not recommended and thru hull like you currently have, much better as you are not drilling and screwing into your transom. As the key to good bedding lies in dry, clean surface, you must remove the boat to replace (not to mention you would sink). Fast and easy replacement normally if same hole size. Running the cable can be a bear sometimes. Doug
 
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Leslie Thompson

Maybe a puck

You do have to haul her out to replace a thru-transducer. You could also see if the mfgr has a puck style transducer. This simply mounts with epoxy to the inside hull and transmit the sonar signal thru the hull. A lot less worry with this style. Would not suggest a transom mount, simply because of the tumble of the stern. It would be hard to mount without producing bubbles in the water, which make the depth sounder go crazy
 
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jolie

Gurgle, gurgle, gurgle...

Just for everyone's information: My speed transducer can easily be pulled out while the boat is in the water. HUNTER has an installed flap in the thru hull that conveniently closes when the transducer is pulled out.
 
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Gene Barton s/v Paradigm

Depth and Speed Transducers

The flap on the speed transducer is nice. I pull the transducer and replace it with the solid plug after every sail - keeps the transducer paddlewheel from fouling with little critters in between sails. Takes on about a cup of water, easily sponged up. But the depth transducer has no such flap. You have to haul to replace it.
 
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Bob England

It takes a lot of water to sink a boat

I've been having trouble with my boat speed instrument, and have taken the paddle wheel transducer out and in several times. My through hull does not have the flap that other posts have mentioned. I have a "blank" plug that fits the hole, and I exchange the paddle wheel plug for the blank plug as quickly as possible. I get a water spout while the plug is out, but it's for only a fraction of a second, and only a few liters of water comes in -- easy to clean up with a sponge. Just don't have a heart attack during the couple of seconds it takes to secure the plug back in! It seems like a waste of money to haul a boat just to change the transducer, as long as you have a blank plug for the hole -- you all do have the blank plugs in case of an emergency, don't you??
 
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Edmund Shanahan

Removal

I have actually helped in the installation of a thru hull for salt water intake on an AC installation while the boat was wet. Obviously, a lot of planning, extra hands, the right tools, etc., are required. After the hole was made in the boat, a large diameter hose was held over the hole effectively raising the the waterline inside the hose. That kept the owners blood pressure in check. Another hose was snaked through the first, out the hole, and up to the surface, where another set of hands grabbed it, inserted it into the bronze tailpiece, applied the appropriate water setting polysulfide, and the hose was then retracted from inside the boat, pulling the fitting along with it. Inside the hole it arrived, ready for another set of hands to grab it. The wood bedding block and coupling nut were already down the hose with plenty of "gunk". The wood bedding and nut were appropriately secured to the through hull fitting. The rest of the operation should make sense. I have seen this done twice, and am impressed with how well it worked. It takes guts though. In your case, however, their are two problems, one the removal of the old, and since the depth sounder is solid, creating a way to pull the new sounder back through the old hole. The first problem, outside of the sheer force of removing the transducer, is removing the old bedding compound. If that is poorly done, no amount of fresh stuff will keep the job from leaking. On the second, you do have the wire to use, but that would be too loose below the waterline. You can't have the new fitting bouncing around all over depositng the bedding compound everywhere except where it is needed the most. Given this, a haul out and hold in a cradle would make the most sense. You don't need to wash, or block, and a marina should haul and hold while you exchange the fitting very cheaply. And without the worry and anxiety.
 
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Bob England

Transducer vs. thruhull

Wow! It was pretty exciting reading about creating a new thruhull while the boat was in the water. Very cleverly done. However, I believe the original question was how to replace a transducer. Assuming that the new transducer is a replacement for the old, and the thruhull is intact, the answer is easy -- unscrew the locking ring at the top of the thruhull, pull out the old transducer, stick in the new transducer (or a blanking plug), tighten the locking ring, and mop up the little bit of water that came in. Done. A one man job. This works without the special flap that some new thruhulls have, you just get a little more water in.
 
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Dakota Jim Russell

Bob is right - can be one while in the water

Bob is right - it all can be done while in the water if it is an exact replacement. The little bit of water that comes into the boat is not a bad mental preparation to prepare one for bigger problems later. As he says, it takes alot of water to sink a boat. And this little exercise isn't a bad way to learn to be cool while water is flowing into the boat. The biggest problem may be if the unit has been bottom painted to the point that it is really stuck. However, like Bob, I have removed the knotmeter paddle wheel with no problem. Done that several times when I haul the 340 on my trailer. Jim
 
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Mike Ross

Temporary fix

Since its late in the season, and your probably going to be pulling the boat soon, you can try what I did last year. Just take the replacement thru-hull transducer and put it in a ziplock bag full of water. Then just place the bag near where the existing transducer is located, making sure there are no bubbles between the transducer and the hull. As long the the hull is solid fiberglass (not cored) you should have no problems - I beleive the 26.5 is solid. A technician at Standard/horizon told me it may limit the range to 150', a non-issue for me. If nothing else, this is easy to try. good luck, Mike
 
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