T,
Never try & mount a puck in the bow man.
Your cockpit area stays in the water, your bow does not. Transducers do NOT like air.
Put it as close to the centerline as possible somewhere under your companionway, this & the cockpit is the best & deepest part of your hull, that's the reading that is most important.
Take a zip lock bag I/3 full of water. With the unit turned on & located on the bottom of the bag, find a spot that gives you a good read against your inside hull. If there are any air pockets in the hull you will not get a solid read. It has to be laying flush with the inside hull or if any air is underneath, you'll get the same response as when it was at the bow.
You don't have to epoxy it in, a decent caulk will work just as well (NO AIR POCKETS IN THE CAULK). You will know when you're in the right spot.
You're now located just after the keel & this is where it needs to be pal. We're not building a watch, were looking for a sound blip bouncing off the bottom. If you have grass under you, this may also give you a false read (this is normal) but, not to fret.
I've put alot of these in but, whoever told you to locate it at the bow, needs additional training. Alot of powerboaters make the same mistake of locating on the bow or off their transom. It can however, really be a breeze to locate properly.
When relocated, there should be a depth offset option in your bottom finder. Let's say you can closely judge the difference between your keel depth & where it is level is on your hull (the water line), If you can measure or calculate how deep you float as opposed to the keel bottom, that's the offset you punch into your bottom finder, If the difference is a foot, that's your offset.
Let's say you draw 4 feet. You then find that the true distance from the waterline to keel is a foot less, you offset will be MINUS 1 foot (a three foot difference, not four). Now you have the true depth of your keel. No more guess work.
Let us know how this works out for you.
CR