From time to time we like to use a second anchor when we're out cruising. We like to find out of the way anchorages that others may pass over because they are hard to get into or have really limited swing room, and a second anchor can be very helpful. Unfortunately our Hunter 335 has only one bow roller and our primary anchor, a 35 pound CQR sits on it. Deploying and especiallly retrieving our secondary anchor, a 17 pound Danforth isn't easy. We've tried using the dinghy, deploying and recovering off the swim platform, hauling it up over the toe rail--no option has worked well and they all seem hard on Shibumi and/or my back. Before I look into a custom modification to the stem to incorporate two bow rollers (I'm not sure this is even possible), does anyone have any bright ideas here? Thanks for your help. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
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bow sprit
with double rollers, any sailboat over 25ft that is not set up thus is badly lacking. IMHO
with double rollers, any sailboat over 25ft that is not set up thus is badly lacking. IMHO
Bright Ideas
Sounds like you've tried most every method of chunkin and haulin so I'll approach from a different angle. Have you thought about upgrading your primary Anchor? While the 35 CQR is more than adequate, would a 45 cqr with heaver chain and/or kellet combination allow you to reduce scope enough? And there's always the Fortress 10 pounder that claims to handle a 1250lb load.
Sounds like you've tried most every method of chunkin and haulin so I'll approach from a different angle. Have you thought about upgrading your primary Anchor? While the 35 CQR is more than adequate, would a 45 cqr with heaver chain and/or kellet combination allow you to reduce scope enough? And there's always the Fortress 10 pounder that claims to handle a 1250lb load.
I agree...
with Andy on the Fortress idea. I had one on my first boat, and because of it's light weight, it was really easy to deploy and retrieve. I never had any trouble with it's holding power either. The only drawback I see is if you add a lot of chain to it, it's going to pretty much put you back where you started. You did say it was for a second hook though, so maybe you could put the recommended length of chain on there and add a longer piece when needed.
with Andy on the Fortress idea. I had one on my first boat, and because of it's light weight, it was really easy to deploy and retrieve. I never had any trouble with it's holding power either. The only drawback I see is if you add a lot of chain to it, it's going to pretty much put you back where you started. You did say it was for a second hook though, so maybe you could put the recommended length of chain on there and add a longer piece when needed.
Gary, I'm not a fan of CQRs.There are snaps of
the anchor system of our h34 rebuild on our web site. I just added some pictures of our new windlass setup too. Maybe they'll help you. As I see it, our problem is anchoring in the northwest.(mud and rock, not to mention tidal range) It's tuff! Two hooks is the only way to go. I use a Fortress for our second anchor too. I bent a prior one. Hey, two anchors is lots of work! I sure sleep better with two in the water though. The only suggestion that I have would be to be sure and have enough rode on both hooks so you can go from one drop point to the next and have good scoop after centering. I think that 35lb CQR is too much weight for too little holding power. I would go to a lighter Bruce to catch a rock up here. Good luck
the anchor system of our h34 rebuild on our web site. I just added some pictures of our new windlass setup too. Maybe they'll help you. As I see it, our problem is anchoring in the northwest.(mud and rock, not to mention tidal range) It's tuff! Two hooks is the only way to go. I use a Fortress for our second anchor too. I bent a prior one. Hey, two anchors is lots of work! I sure sleep better with two in the water though. The only suggestion that I have would be to be sure and have enough rode on both hooks so you can go from one drop point to the next and have good scoop after centering. I think that 35lb CQR is too much weight for too little holding power. I would go to a lighter Bruce to catch a rock up here. Good luck
Fred, great Pics. I like your double roller
I know you brought it to a local machine shop, but do you mind me asking how much they charged you for something like that? I'm thinking of some work maybe like that and I'd like to get an idea. I know the price for this type of stuff is very regional and costs would vary all over, but I need a ballpark to work from.
I know you brought it to a local machine shop, but do you mind me asking how much they charged you for something like that? I'm thinking of some work maybe like that and I'd like to get an idea. I know the price for this type of stuff is very regional and costs would vary all over, but I need a ballpark to work from.
Another POV
I maintain that in nice, sticky, Pacific NW mud, holding power is not the issue. With great bottoms and so many protected anchorages, we do not have the classic problem of the Carribean: sand bottom, exposed anchorage, and breezy nights. IMHO, the Danforth-designs (which include the Fortress) were designed for such tropical conditions. What makes NW anchoring tough is (1) tidal range and (2) current. It is common that overnight your situation will change 100%: 12' or more added depth and 180 degree swing! Given that set of problems, I'll take an easy-setting plow every time. The Bruce is my fave, with the Delta a close second. Here's why a Bruce: World's easiest anchor to set. Sets all by itself if the current swing pulls it out overnight. Great in mud. Works with short scope; ideal for deeper anchorages where you can't even think of going 7 to 1. My Bruce has been rock-steady at 3 to 1 even in windy conditions. Heck, even on a stern tie when the wind was _broadside_ to my boat. In addition... almost every boat I've ever seen drag in the PNW has been using a Danforth-type anchor. Because they didn't set it right the first time. Or it pulled out when the current changed and didn't re-set. I wouldn't take one as a gift. Their holding power is terrific but over-valued in these waters, IMHO. My ideal PNW boat has two plow anchors: one a size larger than required with lots of (maybe all) chain. The second anchor is another plow one size less than required, one boat length chain, to use a lunch hook. The stern locker has a Fortress in it for use as a stern anchor, or just in case I do need that holding power, i.e. fluke storm. A terrible config for the Caribbean, but it works here. Done. *box
I maintain that in nice, sticky, Pacific NW mud, holding power is not the issue. With great bottoms and so many protected anchorages, we do not have the classic problem of the Carribean: sand bottom, exposed anchorage, and breezy nights. IMHO, the Danforth-designs (which include the Fortress) were designed for such tropical conditions. What makes NW anchoring tough is (1) tidal range and (2) current. It is common that overnight your situation will change 100%: 12' or more added depth and 180 degree swing! Given that set of problems, I'll take an easy-setting plow every time. The Bruce is my fave, with the Delta a close second. Here's why a Bruce: World's easiest anchor to set. Sets all by itself if the current swing pulls it out overnight. Great in mud. Works with short scope; ideal for deeper anchorages where you can't even think of going 7 to 1. My Bruce has been rock-steady at 3 to 1 even in windy conditions. Heck, even on a stern tie when the wind was _broadside_ to my boat. In addition... almost every boat I've ever seen drag in the PNW has been using a Danforth-type anchor. Because they didn't set it right the first time. Or it pulled out when the current changed and didn't re-set. I wouldn't take one as a gift. Their holding power is terrific but over-valued in these waters, IMHO. My ideal PNW boat has two plow anchors: one a size larger than required with lots of (maybe all) chain. The second anchor is another plow one size less than required, one boat length chain, to use a lunch hook. The stern locker has a Fortress in it for use as a stern anchor, or just in case I do need that holding power, i.e. fluke storm. A terrible config for the Caribbean, but it works here. Done. *box
Tom S. thank you. Your very kind
I shopped around. The first quote was $600.00. I walked. I tried a second shop recommended by the PYI guys. It was in their basement. That fellow said $300.00, give or take. He got the job. I still thought it was a little high. After the work, I then took the unit to the shop that was doing my rail work and had it pacified in their tank. The treatment removes the welding 'blue' and the potential for rusting. That was another $45.00. It was money well spent. Just the symmetrical appearance is worth the cash to me. Pretty silly. Anyhow, no more reeving two anchor lines through the same roller. The hardest part was getting the stemhead off. The four screws holding the strap to the front of the bow had to be removed with a 250 ft.LB impact wrench. There is no backing plate with nuts in front of the anchor locker. Just turn the screws. It was tough. I wanted to duplicate the original only because of aesthetics. You can add a second roller for much less,,,nah, no way.
I shopped around. The first quote was $600.00. I walked. I tried a second shop recommended by the PYI guys. It was in their basement. That fellow said $300.00, give or take. He got the job. I still thought it was a little high. After the work, I then took the unit to the shop that was doing my rail work and had it pacified in their tank. The treatment removes the welding 'blue' and the potential for rusting. That was another $45.00. It was money well spent. Just the symmetrical appearance is worth the cash to me. Pretty silly. Anyhow, no more reeving two anchor lines through the same roller. The hardest part was getting the stemhead off. The four screws holding the strap to the front of the bow had to be removed with a 250 ft.LB impact wrench. There is no backing plate with nuts in front of the anchor locker. Just turn the screws. It was tough. I wanted to duplicate the original only because of aesthetics. You can add a second roller for much less,,,nah, no way.
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