Deploying anchor on boat with bowsprit

[Ward H]

C30 w/anchor rollers on bowsprit.

We're having a blast sailing our new C30 and now we're getting ready to anchor out. Just for lunch and evenings on the water, for, now.
I'm just not sure how to deploy an anchor with the anchor rollers on the bowsprit.
My only previous experience was with our O'day 25 where I put the anchor under the pulpit and dropped it over the side, cleating the rode to a bow cleat.
There are two rollers on the bowsprit. Over each roller is a removable pin which appears to lock the rode into the roller.
Here's the anchor in the locker. The windlass is not operational at this time. That is on next year's project list.


Do I just open the locking pin, man handle the anchor over the roller, let it slide off into the water? When enough rode is out just cleat it off to a bow cleat and close the locking pin so it does not slide off the roller? I believe the cleat in the locker is just to secure the end of the rode.

The next work day at the boat I'll be pulling the anchor and rode out of the locker to inspect it. The anchor line appears to be new and has flags marking length.

I've read enough to understand anchor scope ratio, chain length, etc.

Maybe this should be in the C30 forum but I figured other boats have bowsprits so I posted it here.

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

Run it through the roller into the locker, and cleat it to the starboard cleat shown in your first image

 

[thinwater]

I'm not familiar with this boat, but isn't the deep area on the starboard side for storing the anchor vertically?

Otherwise, what you say is essentially correct. Chafe may determine where the rode should be secured.

 

[Gunni]

You should be able to rig the anchor into the anchor roller and have it ready to deploy by simply releasing an anchor lock. That looks like some type of modified forestay / headsail furler creation. You will also need to avoid hooking the bobstay with the anchor(s)

 

[capta]

The pin you speak of should be to hold the anchor on the roller when sailing, not at anchor. I do not see a chain stop on your boat.
Once the required scope is in the water I would leave the rode in the roller and tie the rode to the docking cleat on the side that the roller is on, adding whatever chafe gear is necessary to ensure that the anchor rode is not chafed. As you do not have a windlass with a gypsy, I guess you will not be getting an all chain rode, so ensuring that you have sufficient chafe gear is of prime importance.

 

[thinwater]

The pin you speak of should be to hold the anchor on the roller when sailing, not at anchor. I do not see a chain stop on your boat....

I believe what he meant forward pin, who's main function is to keep the rope from jumping out of the roller. If you keep your anchor on the roller it is easy to forget about this important function. The rope will quickly cut if it rides on top of the side plates. The secondary function--securing the anchor, is just that, secondary, since securing the anchor can be accomplished in other ways.

He mentioned securing the rope to a bow cleat.

 

[capta]

I believe what he meant forward pin, who's main function is to keep the rope from jumping out of the roller. If you keep your anchor on the roller it is easy to forget about this important function. The rope will quickly cut if it rides on top of the side plates. The secondary function--securing the anchor, is just that, secondary, since securing the anchor can be accomplished in other ways.

He mentioned securing the rope to a bow cleat.

If I was day sailing his boat, I would keep my anchor on the roller for emergency deployment, using the pin to keep it secure. I would not use the pin when anchored because, in an emergency, it would hamper rapid retrieval to undo it. I have never had an anchor line come off the roller, so it never came to mind to use the pin for that purpose.

 

[Benny17441]

That seems like a PO add-on contraption. The usual purpose of an anchor roller fixture is to be able to store the anchor on it and have it out ready to deploy. My best idea about the intentions of the installer is to make it easier to retrieve the anchor. Just drop as you normally would under the pulpit and when you get ready to bring it up just run the rode on the roller and pull until the shank comes up, grab the anchor and store. As you may not be storing the anchor on the roller just remove the pins and put them away for future use. Installing the rollers was probably the only way he could tail the windlass and guide the rode as the anchor comes up. I thought about a plow or claw perhaps to store on the roller but they don't look like they would clear the bowsprit rigging either.

 

[Ward H]

I'm not familiar with this boat, but isn't the deep area on the starboard side for storing the anchor vertically?

Hadn't noticed that before but sure looks like it. That would explain why the anchor doesn't sit well where it is. Thanks for pointing that out.

If possible I would like to leave the anchor on the sprit for easy deployment. I wonder if there is a hole in the anchor that the pin goes through?

Here's photo I found with a better view.

That seems like a PO add-on contraption.

I don't think so. The windlass is built in, switch is on the original distribution panel, the tunnel in the hatch leads to the rollers, etc.

I appreciate everyone's comments.

 

[justsomeguy]

I wonder if there is a hole in the anchor that the pin goes through?

You may have to drill your own.

 

[thinwater]

If I was day sailing his boat, I would keep my anchor on the roller for emergency deployment, using the pin to keep it secure. I would not use the pin when anchored because, in an emergency, it would hamper rapid retrieval to undo it. I have never had an anchor line come off the roller, so it never came to mind to use the pin for that purpose.

I hate to be contrary, but I think you are bringing big-boat solutions to a small boat problem. I've had boats where I wouldn't want to manhandle the anchor, but I've also had boats like this where it's just not a big deal.

First, he can deploy that anchor in about 3 seconds in an emergency. Simply throw it in, forget the roller, and cleat it off. Not pretty, but the loads are so low on a 30' boat he could easily reposition the rode later. A short length of line and a rolling hitch would make it easy in a blow. That said, this is something that will probably happen only once every so many years. Tossing it over the rail is fine.

Second, I'm pretty sure he can retrieve the anchor with the pin in place, just as you would. He only needs to remove the pin to stow the anchor in the locker. In fact, unless I am seeing things wrong, there is no reason he cannot keep the anchor on the roller if he would like, other than possible chafe on the bobstay. It would also be easy to simply reach over the bow and pickup the rode to stow it. It's a light anchor.

Finally, that pin was never intended to retain a pivoting fluke anchor, only to restrain the rode. The anchor would be retained on the roller by tensioning the rode and perhaps a lashing. I've never used a pin to restrain the anchor; I lock the chain. Much faster to release, and secure if the chain is tight (add a lashing off-shore).

Small boats don't have 45- to 80-pound anchors. They have 12- to 20-pound anchors. Judging from the size of the shoes, I'm guessing 13 pounds.

Ward can correct me if I am wrong.

 

[capta]

I Simply throw it in, forget the roller, and cleat it off.

I'd venture a guess there is also somewhere between 15' and 25' of chain in the mix, which would kinda make a mess of a toe rail or lifelines if one just tossed the anchor in willy-nilly, or at least there would be on any 30' boat I was operating.
But that's what this site is all about; the various ways we all do boatie things, giving those asking a question multiple options on the way they might do things.

 

[thinwater]

I'd venture a guess there is also somewhere between 15' and 25' of chain in the mix, which would kinda make a mess of a toe rail or lifelines if one just tossed the anchor in willy-nilly, or at least there would be on any 30' boat I was operating.
But that's what this site is all about; the various ways we all do boatie things, giving those asking a question multiple options on the way they might do things.

Again, you need to remember this is light gear. Simply ease the chain down with a gloved hand. It's only 20 pounds, including the chain. Like lowering a 1/2-full bucket that you can let run a little.

For what it is worth, the boat in my avitar has no roller. I simply pass the anchor through an opening and then lower. I do not need a roller as a fairlead because the rode is secured to a bridle (trimaran). A portion of the chain is covered to avoid scratching problems. It's not a big deal and I have done this quickly when the engine quit. The anchor was down before the boat began drifting backwards. I did something similar on another no-roller boat back in the 90s.

A little awkward, but you work with what you have. Anchoring was actually easier with my last boat. The anchor was 3 times as heavy and the rode was all chain, but there was a windlass and a nice roller and a chain lock.

 

[Gunni]

Thin water; I think you answered your own question - it is just easier with the anchor in a roller ready for deployment with a few instructions. When you need to deploy an anchor in crisis and you are the only guy on the boat capable of doing it right, you lose a skipper and gain a deck hand. I don’t even see this bridle you use, so I guess that needs to be rigged too.

 

[thinwater]

Thin water; I think you answered your own question - it is just easier with the anchor in a roller ready for deployment with a few instructions. When you need to deploy an anchor in crisis and you are the only guy on the boat capable of doing it right, you lose a skipper and gain a deck hand. I don’t even see this bridle you use, so I guess that needs to be rigged too.

No, you did not understand what I said, you heard what you wanted. For gosh sakes, it's a 13-pound anchor. Neither method is difficult and neither takes more than seconds. And who could not understand "lower the anchor?" There is no hardware to explain. Jeez. And any deckhand charged with lowering the anchor will need to understand when to ease rode, how fast, and how much scope.

As for how I actually rig the anchor with a bridle, that would require some explaining. But it will wait.

 

[SG]

First, I'm not sure about the sequence you'd use with the windlass. When you get to to that project, if you want some advice, take som pics with the anchor deployed.

Secondly, there is a difference between the lead in real storm conditions. You have provisions for two anchors, the second anchor (on the port side (where the lead from the windlass might be problematic) you can probably neglect.

The hole in the shank of the Danfoth style anchor may align with the pin above the roller? That might, when you have the anchor pulled up and stowed on the roller, secure the anchor? I can't tell if that works. You need to put it out there and take a picture. Also, I'm not sure about the lead from the roller yo the bow cleat. You need to watch chafe.


.

 

[Ward H]

Follow up.
Yesterday was a work day on the boat so I learned a few things about the anchor.
It appears to be a Danforth 14lb anchor but the dimensions are just a bit shy as what is shown on their site. There is 22' of chain, then 280' of rode with marked flags every 30'. The rode looks very clean but there was chaff at the 160' point so I cut it there. The bay depth is around 12' and anchorages are less than that so that will be plenty.
I'm glad I looked closely. The two shackles between the anchor and chain and one at the chain/rode were loose. I tightened and safety wired.

The anchor does sit nicely on the roller and the pin does lock it in place. The pin is bent a bit showing me that it has been carried there. There is also a wire pendant attached to the locker cleat with a snap on it that appears to be used to lock the chain for additional security.
Here it is in the roller.


There doesn't seem to be a way to get a fair lead for the line from the roller to a bow cleat. I'm thinking that once deployed the line is pulled to the outside of the pulpit rail, then lead to the bow cleat?
Here is another view.

From the chips in the gel coat on the side of the locker, I'm guessing it was usually just dumped over the side.
I think in an emergency that would be a faster way to deploy the anchor than messing with the pin to unlock it.
When I know I'm going to be using the anchor I may put it on the roller before I leave the slip but I'm thinking I'll just keep it in the locker and toss it over the side in an emergency.

The anchor just barely fits the molded in area on the side of the locker. I'm guessing it was made for a smaller lunch hook.
Here is how it looked after I cut the rode and stored the anchor in the locker.


I know I should carry a spare so I'm thinking a Fortress FX-11 as my main anchor and keeping this one as the spare.

Thanks for the suggestions and comments.

 

[Gunni]

Ward, I bend my anchor snubber( your rope rode) around the forward pulpit leg all the time, no problem, better lead for that sharp edge roller frame. Play with the layout.

Take a look at the Mantus and Vulcan. The Mantus breaks down for stowage.

 

[thinwater]

Looks fine to me. Keep it inside the rail; there is not real force with that tiny angle and the lead is better.

A conventional steel new generation anchor for a 30-foot boat would be ~ 20 pounds and a bit much to handle unless it was left on the roller. I would check the dimensions and then consider something like a 10kg Rocna for the primary. I would KEEP that on the roller and use the anchor you have now for the secondary; you even have a cool storage slot.

[BTW, I use a 13# Mantus and Fortress FX-11 for secondary on my F-24, which is MUCH lighter. On my 34-foot catamaran with much more windage, I used a 35# Manson and an FX-17 as secondary. These seemed about right for mid-Atlantic coastal cruising such as you are considering (same thing I did).]