Delete Me

[Franklin]

editing this to clear me of legal issues. Please delete this thread.

 

[JamesG161]

Just a few overall thought on chainplates design.
1) the metal is the tension force distributor over a large area. Like a washer spreads the load over a wider area. A force is Pounds of Force/Square Inch of load distribution.
2) The ability of the Fiberglass hull to hold that metal depends on the thickness, as you described as "core".
3) Fiberglass resin does "stick" to metal. The fiber mat in the resin is the reinforcement.
4) Hull reinforcement has to be opposed to the tension pull of the plate. Normally above the plate.

You might check the designer of your review boat, for it chainplate design.
Jim...

 

[JamesG161]

Would you fiberglass a chainplate to the top of a cored deck without thru-bolting it with a good sized backing plate? That is really what we are talking about....no backing plate.

Not me!

If I understand correctly, the tension pull will be on the fiberglass on top or what I call the "weather deck".
If that is true, then the tension is relying sole on the the adhesion to the Deck and NOT on the core thickness.

Through bolting to a under weather deck plate, would be very much stronger, indeed.

Now of course if the boat is a small 12' foot boat with low forces, perhaps.
Jim...

 

[JamesG161]

'lets run it through the deck and fiberglass it to the inside of the hull'.

If the rigger laid up a few more layers of Fiberglass in the inside then used a big plate over the new layers, perhaps that would work, if in addition to the original design.

But when we do this type of forces on industrial Fiberglass work, there are thickness formulas to assure we do the work at 150% of maximum forces expected.
These are done by structural engineer who are Fiberglass experts.
I know you don't want a lecture from me on that but...

There are a multitude of Resin and mat combinations.
JIm...