delamination on cabin roof

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Aug 11, 2006
1,446
Hunter H260 Traverse City
Hi All I have a 30 foot 1977 Hunter that the cabin roof has delaminated. The top layer of fiberglass can be pushed down fairly easiy but it is still sturdy enough to stand on I would like to repair this but without taking the top layer off and replacing the core and etc., etc., Has anyone had any luck drilling holes in the top and saturating it with a 2 part epoxy like a "Git Rot" product. Any better ideas??? Thanks in advance for the help. George
 

Paul F

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Jun 3, 2004
827
Hunter 1980 - 33 Bradenton
Did it, worked well

After purchasing a 1980 33' I too had a soft spot on the deck. It was about 1x2 feet. I found after drilling a few holes to put the fiberglass "get rot" in that there seemed to be a space between the deck and the plywood core. The plywood core was solid, so by filling the space with fiberglass the deck firmed up. After using the "get rot" (actually used the West Marine version) I finished up with polyester fiberglass mix. The result when painted is much like the non skid deck surrounding the area. It was a fairly easy job with a satisfying result. I would recommed you do the work yourself. It was a good way for me to learn how to use fiberglass.
 
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Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Why the reluctance?

I am wondering why you would choose holes over a large cutout? I do not pretend to know which is better, just curious about your decision. I have delayed this work for the seven years that I have owned my 1979 H37C. I am sure the surveyor was right in his assessment of wet coring. I don't feel it but I am sure the areas around the mast step and chainplates have leaked in the past twenty-six years. I always thought it would be just as easy to glass in the removed panel as it would be to glass over a lot of holes. By cutting out a panel I could replace with a foam core instead of plywood or end-grain balsa. Or I could epoxy the coring before installation. Just thinking out loud here.
 
S

sailortonyb

Ed !!!

This is not meant to be sarcastic. Its just hard to say in type without the inflection in ones voice.But maybe the answer to why holes rather than cutting out a panel might be why you have been putting it off for seven years. I havent had to do this YET !!!!. But if i did, im pretty sure if the damage was not too extensive, I too would go with the holes. The main reason would be the time element. You could repair with the hole arrangement and virtually not lose any sailing time. Then if it didnt work, I would have to go to the cut out arrangement.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
One concern with holes. . .

would be not knowing the extent of the damage. Especially around the chainplates I think I want to know how extensive is the moisture damage. Granted it is more work and would cut into the sailing. But around here we get quite a few warm days in March and April before we launch. That is when I would do the work. Except for all the other projects!
 
Jun 4, 2004
133
- - Plymouth
Mast Step

I had a minor experience with this situation a few weeks after I launched my newly refurbished Hunter 25, 1976. I had it surveyed before I luanched it, the surveyor was impressed that my decks were solid given the year of the boat but he did warn that I would have to eventually repair my mast-step as he believe there was some rot. Being optimistic and realizing I had other more important repairs to attend to, I used his "eventually" description as "ok, I'll get to that issue next year", that was a mistake as my mast started to sink into the deck. I did some quick thinking and decided to consult this website. After some research and suggestions, I drilled HOLES into and surrounding the step and injected them with Git Rot. This worked great, the mast stopped receeding and I was able to continue on with my summer sailing. Warning, when you inject Git Rot into the holes it tends to sometimes shoot back out all over the deck. Make sure you check for residue, also advisable to cover holes with Marinetex and paint. Side note: I may do a more extensive repair and either inject additional Git Rot or cut my step out altogether and replace with a new piece of wood.
 

Royce

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May 17, 2004
8
Hunter 30_74-83 Corpus Christi, TX.
Done both

I have done the holes for small area (less than 1 sq ft.) and on the cabin top I had an area a little over 2 sq ft. I used a dremel tool and cut the top layer of glass off, cleaned the rotting balsa out and replaced with corcell and polyester resin and the old piece back on top. Added weight overnight, ground out the line to taper for glassing it back in, and finished with repainting the top. That was about 8 years ago with no more problems, and you can't see my patch. Hope this helps.
 
Aug 11, 2006
1,446
Hunter H260 Traverse City
What product is best to use

What product is best to use. My thoughts are that whatever it is must be a 2 part epoxy type filler but it must br "runny" enough so that it will flow and level itself within the structure. Most 2 part epoxies I have used were fairly thick consistency and would not flow smoothly into all the nooks and crannies. Any suggestions on what to use and where to get it. Thanks again. George
 
Feb 17, 2004
268
Hunter 30_74-83 Lower Salford, PA / Tolchester,MD marina
This seemed to work for me

On my '79 30' Hunter, I had extensive soft spots on the top side. I drilled very small holes on the inside in places that would not be noticed after this past winter lay-up. In the Spring, I drilled 1/4" holes from the topside. Believe me, the first two holes are the most difficult- after that you go to town. I drilled in a circular pattern from the the mast outward until I hit solid core. I covered the top and let dry for a week. I then went back and started filling using the two-part West system. I used a plastic needle to inject epoxy into the holes. This took way more expoxy than I thought and I had to go buy another gallon set-up. This took several week-ends as the holes required several fill-ups to come level with the deck. I filled each hole to leave a small mushroom top when dry. I then used an obital sander to sand down the topside, then I painted with Interlux one-part. The topside needed a re-paint anyway, and I was holding off until I did this expoxy job. Interesting was the expoxy found the small holes I drilled on the inside and filled these closed.
 
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