deep cycle dieing question

[Roger (Ninette Manitoba)]

My deep cycle battery is only 3 years old, but has experienced some fluid loss from being tossed about at the slip. I replaced the fluid, but cannot seem to keep the battery charged up like it used to. Currently, I can bring it up to 13.64 volts on a trickle charger but by the next day (and without any load) the battery is only reading 12.44 volts. My records indicate that when the battery was a year old it would take 5 months to discharge to this same level. Am I expecting too much from my three year old battery, or is it telling me it is time for a replacement soon?

BTW I keep it stored inside each winter.

Looking forward to your comments and ideas.

 

[Steve Dion]

Roger:

Not all batteries are created equal (regardless of who mfg them). Many of the inexpensive batteries are only good for 2-3 years depending on your maintenance & charging system.

I suggest that you give your battery a full charge and have it load tested. That is usually the real test.

PS: I think your battery is probably at the end of it's life.

 

[Joseph Shirley]

Try an Equalization charge

I don't think you are expecting too much from your battery but you may be expecting too much from your trickle charger. A good marine battery charger will charge a flooded type battery at about 14.4 volts (absorption voltage) and once every few months your battery should get an equalization charge of more than 15 volts to knock the crud off the plates. Your charging voltage is barely above the float voltage of about 13.5 volts so it's mostly just holding your battery without contributing much to boosting its reserve.

Good luck

Joe S

 

[Stu Jackson]

Download and read the Ample Power Primer at www.amplepower.com

 

[Bob S]

Ample Power

Stu, You are definitely one of the more knowledgeable when it comes to electrical systems. I have read the Ample Power web site and am now reading Nigel Calder " Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual". There are so many products out there it can be confusing. Are Ample Power products worth the extra money? It seams their alternators can really push out the amp sespecially at low rpm. I can get a Balmar Max Charge for $307.45 where Ample Power's Smart Alt. Reg, 12V, P-type, #SARV3-12P is $449.00. I'm sad to say the boat will be on the hard sometime in October and I am planning my electrical upgrades as soon as she comes out. There should be some good deals during the Annapolis Boat Show.

Bob

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Re: Ample Power

Bob
Stu is quite knowledgeable but in his absence, I would suggest you take a step back in that, before investing substantial money in a charging system, you consider your battery bank as one limiting factor. It makes no sense to create a large and fast charging capacity unless your battery bank is matched accordingly.

As one ex of the above, a battery can only accept a charge at a rate which is a function of it's capacity - the size of the bank therefore determines your charging needs and design.

We're getting off the original post so you might want to post a new threat regarding your question or delve more fully into some of the reading material referenced here, all of which thoroughly cover the concept of the entire electrical system.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Ample back

Bob,

In general, you get what you pay for, except for the "bargain price, perfect performance" of our Blue Circle 100A alternator which was all of $140 two or three years ago. But a high output alternator which is good at low rpm for more $$ means you "must" already know that your chosen cruising is being on the hook for long periods of time, because that'd be the only reason to want one. OTOH, if you motor a lot or plug in a lot, that's not a model for you and you'd be wasting your money even looking at it. Like Don said, it's a system.

And I continue to recommend Ample Power, because the question was about batteries and equalization and their primer is the BEST and most accessible battery discussion I have seen, short of Calder's "ripping batteries apart for pictures" section!.

 

[Roger (Ninette Manitoba)]

Thanks for your opinions all

I placed a 15 amp charger on it for a couple of days and it seems to be holding. I have no way to load test it on my workshop bench, but will continue to top up the battery over the winter. If in the spring, I notice that it is not holding a charge under modest load, I will replace.

 

[Steve Dion]

Re: Thanks for your opinions all

Roger:

Take that battery down to your local Napa store or other auto parts store. They can load test it for you. It will give you an idea if you should junk the battery or nurse it along for another winter.

 

[seadaddler]

Just did it

I just had to replace one of two 4d's because it was not holding a charge and did put a load test on it when it did show it was bad.
Try putting some type of gauge on it once you give it a full charge than check it each day,it should hold a charge for a long time with out any kind of connecting anything to it,if you charge it and store for the winter it should hold it's charge.
I think my battery went bad because it was always being charged too much and fluid ran low,I did check fluid one a month but some how it ran low.
Nick

 

[higgs]

Fluid loss

You say that you have lost fluid from being tossed around at your slip. Fluid should not be lost because the boat is getting tossed around. What happens when your heeled 30 degrees and pound into some seas? Have you found a puddle of electrolyte under your battery?

Perhaps your trickle charger was boiling the fluid out?

 

[Roger (Ninette Manitoba)]

doubting boiling over

I only use a solar panel (6.5 watts) to charge the battery while on board, so I doubt that would have the ability to boil it over. It may have only been condensation, but one side of the battery was wet, and at another time one cell was down in fluid although not dry, which lead me to believe that the fluid was spilling out. Also my finger tips were a bit tender after I touched the side of the wet battery which led me to assume it was battery acid.

I have checked the battery with a meter for a few evenings now and the voltage drop is only 0.02 down from yesterday. Today it is sitting at 12.36 volts. I'll keep checking over the next week or so, then bring it down to my NAPA store for a load test. Thanks all for your thoughts on this matter.

I bought an sg tester today and measuered each cell. None were in the 'deficit' or 'recharge' category, but none were in the good range either, which leaves the 'fair' category. On average the cells registered 1.225 which according to the idiot guide on the back of the packaging for the tester means fair... cell needs attention. I'm not sure what that means, but I'm sure buying it roses isn't the answer.