I've got to replace the 12v deep cycle battery on my boat. Want to know what's my best bet, weighing cost against performance. Also interested in best option for charging considering I'll be sitting on a mooring most of the week with no access to shore power, and I just can't get enough of a charge off the 8 hp Honda 4 stroke. Here too, value is a concern. Any insights would be appreciated.
Deep Cycle Battery Question
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Can you provide more detailed information around DC requirements and usage (i.e. lights, GPS, Stereo, refrigerator etc). Also - what do you have for charging? Solar, alternator, charger, etc. Finally, what type of sailing do you do between charges (day sails, weekend or cruise)?
Can you provide more detailed information around DC requirements and usage (i.e. lights, GPS, Stereo, refrigerator etc). Also - what do you have for charging? Solar, alternator, charger, etc. Finally, what type of sailing do you do between charges (day sails, weekend or cruise)?
It depends
Bang for the buck wet cells have it cold. They do take more maintenance though like weekly checking of the cell fluid levels. They also require no alternator/regulator adjustments as every one I've seen is set up to charge wet cells. The other types of batteries should (not an absolute requirement though) have the charging voltages tweaked for max battery life. As for designing the electrical load-storage-production system, you might want to try the excel spreadsheet I made for myself. Drop me a line at roosaw@verizon.net for a copy.
Bang for the buck wet cells have it cold. They do take more maintenance though like weekly checking of the cell fluid levels. They also require no alternator/regulator adjustments as every one I've seen is set up to charge wet cells. The other types of batteries should (not an absolute requirement though) have the charging voltages tweaked for max battery life. As for designing the electrical load-storage-production system, you might want to try the excel spreadsheet I made for myself. Drop me a line at roosaw@verizon.net for a copy.
Keep it simple
1. Do an energy budget as recommended by Bill. You can find one at West Marine Advisors online. That'll tell you how large a bank you need based on your use. 2. On a mooring with your outboard your best bet is a small solar panel. 5 watts may do, but an 11 watt or larger would work better. Determine if you need a solar charger controller based on the size of your panel and the size of your battery bank. Also see WM Advisors, they have good material both online and in their catalogs.
1. Do an energy budget as recommended by Bill. You can find one at West Marine Advisors online. That'll tell you how large a bank you need based on your use. 2. On a mooring with your outboard your best bet is a small solar panel. 5 watts may do, but an 11 watt or larger would work better. Determine if you need a solar charger controller based on the size of your panel and the size of your battery bank. Also see WM Advisors, they have good material both online and in their catalogs.
Best bet is golf cart batteries from Sam Club
Your best solution is the golf cart batteries that sams club sells for 64 dollars. They are six volts so you will need two and a connect between the two. They have the same spec as the T-105 which are almost indestructable. Lots of reserve so you would not be pushing these things much. Because you have two they are not so heavy to replace when the time comes also. I believe they are about 60lbs each. Just a satisfied customer.
Your best solution is the golf cart batteries that sams club sells for 64 dollars. They are six volts so you will need two and a connect between the two. They have the same spec as the T-105 which are almost indestructable. Lots of reserve so you would not be pushing these things much. Because you have two they are not so heavy to replace when the time comes also. I believe they are about 60lbs each. Just a satisfied customer.
Kirkland Batteries at Costco don't Cost Much
I paid $53 for mine, a Kirkland battery from Costco. People have told me the Kirkland brand's manufacturer is good. All I know is it was real cheap and works so far.
I paid $53 for mine, a Kirkland battery from Costco. People have told me the Kirkland brand's manufacturer is good. All I know is it was real cheap and works so far.
I'll bet'cha
I don't know for sure, but I would bet that the company that makes the batteries that are sold at Costco is the same company that makes the Batteries that are sold at Sears, Kragen, West Marine, Boater's World and everywhere else.
I don't know for sure, but I would bet that the company that makes the batteries that are sold at Costco is the same company that makes the Batteries that are sold at Sears, Kragen, West Marine, Boater's World and everywhere else.
Lead Technologies for marine
In terms of good better best it would be wet,agm,gel. Flooded gives the biggest bang for the buck. I think the other folks have it right with costco. I would look into wind for battery charging. It may be right for your application but, solar may be right too. I see allot of boats on moorings with both. Hey - I guess you can never get enough charge, right!
In terms of good better best it would be wet,agm,gel. Flooded gives the biggest bang for the buck. I think the other folks have it right with costco. I would look into wind for battery charging. It may be right for your application but, solar may be right too. I see allot of boats on moorings with both. Hey - I guess you can never get enough charge, right!
Depends on what you consider best bang.
If cheap flooded batteries last for 2 years and you pay $60 ea and you 2 of them that we cost you about $60 per year. (2 x $60 = $120 x 5 yrs = $600 for 10 years. If you purchase Gels for $175 ea and you need two of them to produce 200 ah and they last for 10 years that will cost you about $35 per year. (2 x $175 = $350 for 10 years) If you purchase Gel or AGM you are also going to have no maintenance for the entire period (no distilled water, no battery terminal cleaning etc). These batteries will also hold a charge much better than flooded batteries when left unattended. Some owners get more life out of their cheapo batteries than this so the numbers may change. My experience says go with a good charging system regardless of what you decide to do. You may want to look at adding a good sized solar panel too.
If cheap flooded batteries last for 2 years and you pay $60 ea and you 2 of them that we cost you about $60 per year. (2 x $60 = $120 x 5 yrs = $600 for 10 years. If you purchase Gels for $175 ea and you need two of them to produce 200 ah and they last for 10 years that will cost you about $35 per year. (2 x $175 = $350 for 10 years) If you purchase Gel or AGM you are also going to have no maintenance for the entire period (no distilled water, no battery terminal cleaning etc). These batteries will also hold a charge much better than flooded batteries when left unattended. Some owners get more life out of their cheapo batteries than this so the numbers may change. My experience says go with a good charging system regardless of what you decide to do. You may want to look at adding a good sized solar panel too.
Is there any source of info that identifies....
the manufacturer of Costco or Sam's batteries? I'm in the market, and I'm weighing the best performance/value of Costco, Sam's, or US Battery brand T-105 equivalents. I've had relatively poor performance from Excide so if they make the Costco/Sam's I would avoid them. I don't have a membership to Costco or Sam's but I have relatives or friends that do. The US Battery model US-2200 is the T-105 equivalent and can be had in my neck of the woods for $84 plus tax. The best I can find on Trojan T-105 is about $120 plus tax for each. Anyone have any good/bad comments about US Battery?
the manufacturer of Costco or Sam's batteries? I'm in the market, and I'm weighing the best performance/value of Costco, Sam's, or US Battery brand T-105 equivalents. I've had relatively poor performance from Excide so if they make the Costco/Sam's I would avoid them. I don't have a membership to Costco or Sam's but I have relatives or friends that do. The US Battery model US-2200 is the T-105 equivalent and can be had in my neck of the woods for $84 plus tax. The best I can find on Trojan T-105 is about $120 plus tax for each. Anyone have any good/bad comments about US Battery?
Yahoo says Johnson Controls Makes Costco Batteries
Per this website, Johnson Controls makes Costco batteries: http://shopping.yahoo.com/premium/consumerreports/silver.html?id=95700426 Here is the text: All car batteries aren�t created equal. A battery�s size, rated capacity, and its age help determine how it will perform. The time to think about buying a new auto battery is before the old one fails. Once you�re stranded by a dead battery, you probably won�t want to spend time shopping around for another. At the first sign that your current battery is growing weaker, have a garage perform a �load test� to see if it�s holding a charge properly. If it isn�t, find a new battery. WHAT'S AVAILABLE Most auto batteries are made by just three manufacturers, Delphi, Exide, and Johnson Controls Industries. Each makes batteries sold under several different brand names. Delphi makes ACDelco and some EverStart (Wal-Mart) models. Exide makes Champion, Exide, Napa, and some EverStart batteries. Johnson Controls makes Diehard (Sears), Duralast (AutoZone), Interstate, Kirkland (Costco), Motorcraft (Ford), and some EverStarts. Service centers such as Firestone, Goodyear, Pep Boys, and Sears tend to have a large, fresh inventory and relatively low prices. They also handle installation. Stores such as Kmart, Target, Trak Auto, and Wal-Mart may have the lowest prices, but not all of them can install a battery for you. Installing a battery yourself is not technically difficult but it can be cumbersome and you have to dispose of the old battery properly. Service stations and tune-up shops sell batteries as well, and they offer convenient and comprehensive service, but their selection tends to be limited and their stock may not be fresh. For cars and trucks still under warranty, a franchised dealer is your first choice, particularly if the vehicle warranty covers the battery. For older vehicles, though, a dealership is probably the last resort--it�s the most expensive service venue. The two most crucial factors in choosing a battery are its �group size� and �cold-cranking amps,� or CCA. Group size. A group size defines the battery�s outside dimensions and the placement of the terminals on them. For instance, group size 75 fits mainly General Motors cars. Size 65 applies to most large Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury products. Newer Hondas, Nissans, and Toyotas use size 35. Most Chryslers use 34. You�ll also see combinations like 34/78, which has two sets of terminals and will fit either Chryslers or some GM models. Choose the group size recommended by your car�s manufacturer. (Reference guides at places where batteries are sold can tell you which group size your car needs.) The wrong size may not fit securely. Cold-cranking amps. CCA is a measure of a battery�s ability to start a car in cold weather, when thickened engine oil and slowed chemical reactions make starting hardest. CCAs denote how much current the battery can deliver to the starter at 0� F. Don�t confuse CCA with CA, which stands for Cranking Amps. That�s a measure taken at 32� instead of 0� and is typically much higher than the CCA rating. IMPORTANT FEATURES Reserve capacity is another important measure of battery quality. It indicates how many minutes your car might run using the battery alone, should the car�s alternator fail. You may have to check product literature rather than the battery�s labeling to find the reserve capacity. Buy a fresh battery--one manufactured less than six months earlier. Batteries are stamped with a date code, either on the battery�s case or an attached label. The vital information is usually in the first two characters--a letter and a digit. Most codes start with the letter indicating the month: A for January, B for February, and so forth. The digit denotes the year--say 0 for 2000. For example, B3 stands for February 2003. Like CA ratings, battery warranties can sound better than they are. You�ll see two numbers: one for the total warranty period and one for the free-replacement period (usually three months to three years). The free-replacement period is key. If the old battery fails after this period expires, you get only a prorated credit toward a new battery. HOW TO CHOOSE Check the battery group size and CCA for your vehicle. Not every brand comes in every CCA level. To get the brand you want, you may need to go a bit above your car�s CCA requirements. Steer clear of batteries with a CCA rating below the one specified for your vehicle, as well as those rated 200 amps or more higher than the specified rating. It�s a waste of money to go too high. Buy a battery with the longest reserve capacity you can find. If it�s not printed on the battery (and it usually isn�t), ask store personnel or check product literature. Should your car�s charging system fail, a longer capacity can make the difference between driving to safety and getting stuck. For the latest information on this and many other products and services, visit www.ConsumerReports.org. Click here to try ConsumerReports.org FREE for 30 days. Copyright � 2002-2006 Consumers Union of U.S., Inc. All of the above text is provided by Consumers Union. Yahoo! disclaims any liability for the content provided above.
Per this website, Johnson Controls makes Costco batteries: http://shopping.yahoo.com/premium/consumerreports/silver.html?id=95700426 Here is the text: All car batteries aren�t created equal. A battery�s size, rated capacity, and its age help determine how it will perform. The time to think about buying a new auto battery is before the old one fails. Once you�re stranded by a dead battery, you probably won�t want to spend time shopping around for another. At the first sign that your current battery is growing weaker, have a garage perform a �load test� to see if it�s holding a charge properly. If it isn�t, find a new battery. WHAT'S AVAILABLE Most auto batteries are made by just three manufacturers, Delphi, Exide, and Johnson Controls Industries. Each makes batteries sold under several different brand names. Delphi makes ACDelco and some EverStart (Wal-Mart) models. Exide makes Champion, Exide, Napa, and some EverStart batteries. Johnson Controls makes Diehard (Sears), Duralast (AutoZone), Interstate, Kirkland (Costco), Motorcraft (Ford), and some EverStarts. Service centers such as Firestone, Goodyear, Pep Boys, and Sears tend to have a large, fresh inventory and relatively low prices. They also handle installation. Stores such as Kmart, Target, Trak Auto, and Wal-Mart may have the lowest prices, but not all of them can install a battery for you. Installing a battery yourself is not technically difficult but it can be cumbersome and you have to dispose of the old battery properly. Service stations and tune-up shops sell batteries as well, and they offer convenient and comprehensive service, but their selection tends to be limited and their stock may not be fresh. For cars and trucks still under warranty, a franchised dealer is your first choice, particularly if the vehicle warranty covers the battery. For older vehicles, though, a dealership is probably the last resort--it�s the most expensive service venue. The two most crucial factors in choosing a battery are its �group size� and �cold-cranking amps,� or CCA. Group size. A group size defines the battery�s outside dimensions and the placement of the terminals on them. For instance, group size 75 fits mainly General Motors cars. Size 65 applies to most large Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury products. Newer Hondas, Nissans, and Toyotas use size 35. Most Chryslers use 34. You�ll also see combinations like 34/78, which has two sets of terminals and will fit either Chryslers or some GM models. Choose the group size recommended by your car�s manufacturer. (Reference guides at places where batteries are sold can tell you which group size your car needs.) The wrong size may not fit securely. Cold-cranking amps. CCA is a measure of a battery�s ability to start a car in cold weather, when thickened engine oil and slowed chemical reactions make starting hardest. CCAs denote how much current the battery can deliver to the starter at 0� F. Don�t confuse CCA with CA, which stands for Cranking Amps. That�s a measure taken at 32� instead of 0� and is typically much higher than the CCA rating. IMPORTANT FEATURES Reserve capacity is another important measure of battery quality. It indicates how many minutes your car might run using the battery alone, should the car�s alternator fail. You may have to check product literature rather than the battery�s labeling to find the reserve capacity. Buy a fresh battery--one manufactured less than six months earlier. Batteries are stamped with a date code, either on the battery�s case or an attached label. The vital information is usually in the first two characters--a letter and a digit. Most codes start with the letter indicating the month: A for January, B for February, and so forth. The digit denotes the year--say 0 for 2000. For example, B3 stands for February 2003. Like CA ratings, battery warranties can sound better than they are. You�ll see two numbers: one for the total warranty period and one for the free-replacement period (usually three months to three years). The free-replacement period is key. If the old battery fails after this period expires, you get only a prorated credit toward a new battery. HOW TO CHOOSE Check the battery group size and CCA for your vehicle. Not every brand comes in every CCA level. To get the brand you want, you may need to go a bit above your car�s CCA requirements. Steer clear of batteries with a CCA rating below the one specified for your vehicle, as well as those rated 200 amps or more higher than the specified rating. It�s a waste of money to go too high. Buy a battery with the longest reserve capacity you can find. If it�s not printed on the battery (and it usually isn�t), ask store personnel or check product literature. Should your car�s charging system fail, a longer capacity can make the difference between driving to safety and getting stuck. For the latest information on this and many other products and services, visit www.ConsumerReports.org. Click here to try ConsumerReports.org FREE for 30 days. Copyright � 2002-2006 Consumers Union of U.S., Inc. All of the above text is provided by Consumers Union. Yahoo! disclaims any liability for the content provided above.
Yes, perform an energy budget to determine
your needs. Calculate your usage in ampere/hours and calculate your ability to recharge those ampere/hour. A battery should not be discharged beyond 50% of its rated ampere/hour capacity before recharging. You do the math and it will give you an idea of the battery size that you may need and your needs regarding recharging capabilities. Moorings are hard on batteries as from time to time they will get discharged in excess of 50% and at times will not be allowed to reach 100% charge. Get an inexpensive battery at Wal-Mart or Costco and play with it until you get your system right then you can look into a quality battery for the long haul.
your needs. Calculate your usage in ampere/hours and calculate your ability to recharge those ampere/hour. A battery should not be discharged beyond 50% of its rated ampere/hour capacity before recharging. You do the math and it will give you an idea of the battery size that you may need and your needs regarding recharging capabilities. Moorings are hard on batteries as from time to time they will get discharged in excess of 50% and at times will not be allowed to reach 100% charge. Get an inexpensive battery at Wal-Mart or Costco and play with it until you get your system right then you can look into a quality battery for the long haul.
Energy Audit
I've tried to do the energy audit as suggested but I can't make any sense out of the answer (actually seems way too big for what I use.) I'm certain my useage is meager and a single 12v should suffice, provided I can keep it charged and don't drain it to low. I've no refridge, my outboard is pull start, my VHF and GPS are handhelds. My ONLY power needs are the depth sounder and CD player. I'd love to use my freshwater pump, but never do. The boat's got 3 12v lights which are never used. Haven't done any overnights yet (but I will, I promise).
I've tried to do the energy audit as suggested but I can't make any sense out of the answer (actually seems way too big for what I use.) I'm certain my useage is meager and a single 12v should suffice, provided I can keep it charged and don't drain it to low. I've no refridge, my outboard is pull start, my VHF and GPS are handhelds. My ONLY power needs are the depth sounder and CD player. I'd love to use my freshwater pump, but never do. The boat's got 3 12v lights which are never used. Haven't done any overnights yet (but I will, I promise).
Unless we can see your calculations
there's no way for us to help with the answer you are getting.
there's no way for us to help with the answer you are getting.
energy audit
excerpt from the BoatUS site which you can find to review the entire article on how to perform an audit: "To determine the size and number of batteries you'll need, let's look again at the chart. This time, we'll be adding up the amps for each appliance: in our example, the sum is 397 amp hours. We still want that waffle iron-what does it cost in battery power? You can determine the amp hours drawn by any appliance by using this formula (always round up): AC watts x 1.1 x Hours of Use 12 Example: For a 13" TV: 50 watts x 1.1 x 2 hours= 9 amp hours 12 Notice (by rounding up) the formula answer is the same as that given in the chart! If the data plate lists AC amps rather than watts, no problem, just use a different formula: AC Amps x 10 x 1.1 x Hours of Use= Amp hours In the earlier example, we figured that you needed 397 amps to meet your power requirements. So, simply check the chart below to determine the type and number of batteries you need to reach a capacity of 397 amps, right? Well, almost. Nothing's perfect, and batteries are no exception. Batteries enjoy a subtropical 77¡, and hotter or colder conditions can reduce their efficiency by 20-50%. So instead of selecting batteries having a 397-amp capacity, play it safe and look for 50% more amps, in this case, a total of 595.5."
excerpt from the BoatUS site which you can find to review the entire article on how to perform an audit: "To determine the size and number of batteries you'll need, let's look again at the chart. This time, we'll be adding up the amps for each appliance: in our example, the sum is 397 amp hours. We still want that waffle iron-what does it cost in battery power? You can determine the amp hours drawn by any appliance by using this formula (always round up): AC watts x 1.1 x Hours of Use 12 Example: For a 13" TV: 50 watts x 1.1 x 2 hours= 9 amp hours 12 Notice (by rounding up) the formula answer is the same as that given in the chart! If the data plate lists AC amps rather than watts, no problem, just use a different formula: AC Amps x 10 x 1.1 x Hours of Use= Amp hours In the earlier example, we figured that you needed 397 amps to meet your power requirements. So, simply check the chart below to determine the type and number of batteries you need to reach a capacity of 397 amps, right? Well, almost. Nothing's perfect, and batteries are no exception. Batteries enjoy a subtropical 77¡, and hotter or colder conditions can reduce their efficiency by 20-50%. So instead of selecting batteries having a 397-amp capacity, play it safe and look for 50% more amps, in this case, a total of 595.5."
Solar!!!!!
Just replaced a D-C 12V battery--Canadian Tire--$160.00 +/- Last one lasted 4 years... Math: $40.00 per annum... Replaced a 5 Watt Solar Panel under 5 year warranty--original cost $60.00 I run lights, radio, Depth, Inverter, Lap Top-DVD & docs, VHF, when each is needed. Never all at once... Have always had enough power. But i'm never wasteful...even have candles for special affects...Have heard the G-Cart's are good too. However, we're not talking 1,000$ unless yer floating a $100,000+/- 'Yatch' with AC, frig, freezer, elec-can-openers & tooth brushes...
Solar is my choice... it's sooo cool & eco... Roger
Just replaced a D-C 12V battery--Canadian Tire--$160.00 +/- Last one lasted 4 years... Math: $40.00 per annum... Replaced a 5 Watt Solar Panel under 5 year warranty--original cost $60.00 I run lights, radio, Depth, Inverter, Lap Top-DVD & docs, VHF, when each is needed. Never all at once... Have always had enough power. But i'm never wasteful...even have candles for special affects...Have heard the G-Cart's are good too. However, we're not talking 1,000$ unless yer floating a $100,000+/- 'Yatch' with AC, frig, freezer, elec-can-openers & tooth brushes...
Solar is my choice... it's sooo cool & eco... Rogerlight electrical needs
Your electrical needs are quite light by most standards, and the current capacity of a car battery would suffice. However, current capacity is not the only consideration you need to make. Because you're loads are light, you probably won't dig that deep into capacity of the battery, unless you run that CD player all day long and then run the lights in the evening. In that case, even the car battery works, but then you need some way to charge the battery back up. It may take 5-6 hours of running the 8 horse to get that back (that's a stab in the dark at the capabilities of your alternator). Another consideration, perhaps more importantly, is the design of the battery. This is a deep-cycle application, whether you cycle all that deeply or not. Running the lights for 2 hours and the cd player will drain the battery much more than 15 seconds of cranking a starter motor. Batteries designed for such cycling will have heavier plates that can withstand it. Starting batteries have thin plates suitable to producing large currents for short periods, but are not actually durable enough to endure the chemical reaction of a bonafide discharge. The plates literally fall to pieces. In fact, I used a 345 CCA starting battery to power a spare bilge pump. It was trash after no more than 20 uses, with a prompt recharge on regulated charger after each use. Now in your case, the depth of discharge is low, so dual purpose batteries fit the bill very economically. A group 24 or 27 battery is plenty battery. As far as brands are concerned, there is a difference in the quality of construction, and it makes a difference. Batteries designed for marine use will have even stronger, denser plates to withstand the rigors life on a boat. If you get tossed around a bit, the battery feels it, too. As for charging, because I anticipate your demands being so low, you will not discharge the battery all that much, and in a high state of charge, the battery's rate of charge acceptance is quite low. Sitting on a mooring, something that keeps a steady trickle charge will suffice, unless you're out there using juice daily. The small solar panel that has been suggested is good starting point and probably all you need, so I won't suggest any more. This also makes a difference on your battery selection. Wet-cells can take some overcharge at the expense of electrolyte which is simply refilled. They're also most bang for the buck. AGMs and gel-cells can take a higher rate of charge. But suppose you could provide a good heavy charge when you needed to, then that would require some sort of charge regulator. AGMs and gel-cells are not refillable. So while they don't gas like a wet-cell, what they do gas is not replaceable, eventually destroying the battery. To keep it simple, always the best course of action, stick with the trickle charger and wet-cell dual purpose/deep-cycle. This may be a long-winded version of saying very little, of that which may have already been said, or that you already knew, but I think battery selection is one of the most important for your boat. Besides paying dividends when you pick the right battery for the job, then taking care of it, a battery is crucial piece of gear. While you have a pull-start now, think about how difficult it is to get a jumpstart in the middle of seemingly nowhere. Get a good understanding of batteries now, and you'll be set later on.
Your electrical needs are quite light by most standards, and the current capacity of a car battery would suffice. However, current capacity is not the only consideration you need to make. Because you're loads are light, you probably won't dig that deep into capacity of the battery, unless you run that CD player all day long and then run the lights in the evening. In that case, even the car battery works, but then you need some way to charge the battery back up. It may take 5-6 hours of running the 8 horse to get that back (that's a stab in the dark at the capabilities of your alternator). Another consideration, perhaps more importantly, is the design of the battery. This is a deep-cycle application, whether you cycle all that deeply or not. Running the lights for 2 hours and the cd player will drain the battery much more than 15 seconds of cranking a starter motor. Batteries designed for such cycling will have heavier plates that can withstand it. Starting batteries have thin plates suitable to producing large currents for short periods, but are not actually durable enough to endure the chemical reaction of a bonafide discharge. The plates literally fall to pieces. In fact, I used a 345 CCA starting battery to power a spare bilge pump. It was trash after no more than 20 uses, with a prompt recharge on regulated charger after each use. Now in your case, the depth of discharge is low, so dual purpose batteries fit the bill very economically. A group 24 or 27 battery is plenty battery. As far as brands are concerned, there is a difference in the quality of construction, and it makes a difference. Batteries designed for marine use will have even stronger, denser plates to withstand the rigors life on a boat. If you get tossed around a bit, the battery feels it, too. As for charging, because I anticipate your demands being so low, you will not discharge the battery all that much, and in a high state of charge, the battery's rate of charge acceptance is quite low. Sitting on a mooring, something that keeps a steady trickle charge will suffice, unless you're out there using juice daily. The small solar panel that has been suggested is good starting point and probably all you need, so I won't suggest any more. This also makes a difference on your battery selection. Wet-cells can take some overcharge at the expense of electrolyte which is simply refilled. They're also most bang for the buck. AGMs and gel-cells can take a higher rate of charge. But suppose you could provide a good heavy charge when you needed to, then that would require some sort of charge regulator. AGMs and gel-cells are not refillable. So while they don't gas like a wet-cell, what they do gas is not replaceable, eventually destroying the battery. To keep it simple, always the best course of action, stick with the trickle charger and wet-cell dual purpose/deep-cycle. This may be a long-winded version of saying very little, of that which may have already been said, or that you already knew, but I think battery selection is one of the most important for your boat. Besides paying dividends when you pick the right battery for the job, then taking care of it, a battery is crucial piece of gear. While you have a pull-start now, think about how difficult it is to get a jumpstart in the middle of seemingly nowhere. Get a good understanding of batteries now, and you'll be set later on.
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