I have a 1974 Hunter 25 I've acquired for a dollar (no lie!), obviously she's in pretty bad shape. Since I've done extensive fiberglass work in the past, and my father is a master carpenter I've no worries about bringing her up to ship-shape. My question is this; what is the strength of the foredeck supposed to support. I've no experience with a boat with this thin of a top deck and the foredeck fore of the hatch is very flexible. I've done some coring to check the balsa between the skins and it seems dry and ok. Is this just some delamination or will I have to cut and replace the core. As it stands I don't want to redo the finish until I stiffen that foredeck, else the finish will crack as soon as some weight is applied. (For referrence I weigh 170 lbs) I'd appreciate any knowledge from other '74 owners cause I know the deck shape is different from the later models. Thanks Erik deValk
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Deck Observations
The deck on my 1974 Hunter appears very rigid. I weigh about 150 and I can walk the length without any noticable flex or give save for the forward hatch which compresses to the rubber gasket. Sorry I can't give you any further info but I would suggest asking your local marine surveyor for some assistance.
The deck on my 1974 Hunter appears very rigid. I weigh about 150 and I can walk the length without any noticable flex or give save for the forward hatch which compresses to the rubber gasket. Sorry I can't give you any further info but I would suggest asking your local marine surveyor for some assistance.
You have a big mess on your hands.
I also own a '74 H25. I was in the same boat that you are now in (ha ha). I had an additional problem, the boat had filled with water for several years in addition to delaminating problem on the deck all of the word work below was shot. There is a skin on FG above and below a balsa core that makes up the deck. I removed the lower skin, I started in the middle and worked my way out. Then I removed all of the balsa core and replaced it with wooden planks, I fastened the planks to the upper skin with a FG resin putty. This was easier for me than putting up balsa core again(you can purchase coring through Defender Marine) because I was also replacing all of the interior at the same time. If you use balsa coring you will need to replace the lower skin after all of your coring was resined into place. This is a long and messy process, if you are going to do it there are several books available on repairing delaminated decks(this is a common problem with older boats). Research it carefully buy the best material (epoxy resin instead of polyester resin) and you will only have to do it once. The primary reason decks delaminate is the water gets in between the FG skins, check and make sure everything is bedded properly topside. The H25 is a great boat and for your initial investment she will be worth the work to bring her back to life. I have some pictures of Essayons in the archives check her out! Dan Pitman s/v Essayons
I also own a '74 H25. I was in the same boat that you are now in (ha ha). I had an additional problem, the boat had filled with water for several years in addition to delaminating problem on the deck all of the word work below was shot. There is a skin on FG above and below a balsa core that makes up the deck. I removed the lower skin, I started in the middle and worked my way out. Then I removed all of the balsa core and replaced it with wooden planks, I fastened the planks to the upper skin with a FG resin putty. This was easier for me than putting up balsa core again(you can purchase coring through Defender Marine) because I was also replacing all of the interior at the same time. If you use balsa coring you will need to replace the lower skin after all of your coring was resined into place. This is a long and messy process, if you are going to do it there are several books available on repairing delaminated decks(this is a common problem with older boats). Research it carefully buy the best material (epoxy resin instead of polyester resin) and you will only have to do it once. The primary reason decks delaminate is the water gets in between the FG skins, check and make sure everything is bedded properly topside. The H25 is a great boat and for your initial investment she will be worth the work to bring her back to life. I have some pictures of Essayons in the archives check her out! Dan Pitman s/v Essayons
Thanks Dan
Seems we're literally in the same boat, I'm also in the process of replacing all the interior woodwork for exactly the same reasons. I'm curious as to your choice of wood planking on the headliner as opposed to coring and reskining. My deck is only soft to the forehatch (which is being replaced as well, probably the cause since it leaks like a sieve.) and I'm on a fairly tight budget so I'm looking for the most economical way to get Genesis shipshape. I'm also curious as to the type of wood you used to rebuild the bulkheads and berths, I've been considering 1/2" marine ply but some sources say the Type I hardwood ply is acceptable as well. Since I'm putting the work into it I'd like it to have a nice finished surface and I'd like to know your solution. As I do the repairs and refits I plan to post pictures of all the work I do to help others save their old treasures.
Seems we're literally in the same boat, I'm also in the process of replacing all the interior woodwork for exactly the same reasons. I'm curious as to your choice of wood planking on the headliner as opposed to coring and reskining. My deck is only soft to the forehatch (which is being replaced as well, probably the cause since it leaks like a sieve.) and I'm on a fairly tight budget so I'm looking for the most economical way to get Genesis shipshape. I'm also curious as to the type of wood you used to rebuild the bulkheads and berths, I've been considering 1/2" marine ply but some sources say the Type I hardwood ply is acceptable as well. Since I'm putting the work into it I'd like it to have a nice finished surface and I'd like to know your solution. As I do the repairs and refits I plan to post pictures of all the work I do to help others save their old treasures.
Drop me a line.
Hello Erik, Drop me a line at daniel_pitman@hotmail.com . I will try and give you the details of what I did to restore my h25(writing Q+A's in this type of forum is time consuming). Send me some pictures of the interior woodwork in it's current state if possible. Talk to ya soon. Dan Pitman s/v Essayons
Hello Erik, Drop me a line at daniel_pitman@hotmail.com . I will try and give you the details of what I did to restore my h25(writing Q+A's in this type of forum is time consuming). Send me some pictures of the interior woodwork in it's current state if possible. Talk to ya soon. Dan Pitman s/v Essayons
You were robbed!
Erik- Was your boat for sale for a long time on Long Island? He was asking $2,000? If it's the same one, I was trying to talk a friend into buying it. Anyway, I think you were robbed for $1. I rec'd my 1974 Hunter 25 for $0 last year, thus, the name "Freebie". It's pretty funny if you ask me. On my maiden voyage, I topped off the 6 gallon gas tank, the price was just under $3.00, I looked at my wife and said, "Jeez, this boat is costing an arm and a leg already." Anyway, I have the same boat, and am willing to talk shop anytime. The foredeck is soft on both sides of the mast, and I plan to tackle that bear in a few weeks. If your core is dry, I'd suggest some structural stringers fiberglassed to the bottom deck, with a couple layers of fiberglass mat. I'm sure we'll be in touch. Also... Dan - "Essayons" is beautiful. Do you have an inboard? Did you install the wheel? Ike "Freebie"
Erik- Was your boat for sale for a long time on Long Island? He was asking $2,000? If it's the same one, I was trying to talk a friend into buying it. Anyway, I think you were robbed for $1. I rec'd my 1974 Hunter 25 for $0 last year, thus, the name "Freebie". It's pretty funny if you ask me. On my maiden voyage, I topped off the 6 gallon gas tank, the price was just under $3.00, I looked at my wife and said, "Jeez, this boat is costing an arm and a leg already." Anyway, I have the same boat, and am willing to talk shop anytime. The foredeck is soft on both sides of the mast, and I plan to tackle that bear in a few weeks. If your core is dry, I'd suggest some structural stringers fiberglassed to the bottom deck, with a couple layers of fiberglass mat. I'm sure we'll be in touch. Also... Dan - "Essayons" is beautiful. Do you have an inboard? Did you install the wheel? Ike "Freebie"
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