The rubrail that I was talking about was the same as what Rudy supplies for the DS and the Widgeon and might be too small for the 19, then again.... it should fit. It is a rubber extrusion and is $4.85ft. Not cheap.... but not excessive.
Deck to hull separation repair
- Thread starter oliversdad
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Thanks Sunbird,That looks like it would work.I may very well end up using if I can't get her glued up tight.I really can't complain about a few bucks here and there.If I remember correctly the Daysailer has a very similar deck lip.
ThanksTrinka, I may consider Aluminum.I like the look.First things first though,I need to tend to this repair and see how I make out.
Well,I finally got around to this repair.I ended up using a cake frosting spreader and put sticky 80 grit sandpaper on both sides.Worked this "tool" up and down into lip joint and successfully cleaned out enough old adhesive to clamp up the joint tight.Then I was able to squeeze plenty of 5200 in.It now sits curing for a few days.I'll post some pics when I get a chance.Thanks for all the friendly advise.
Here's a shot of my handiwork.Going to let the 5200 cure for a week then remove the clamps.You can see the new compass installed my buddy gave me that he had laying around.I owe him one.:dance:
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That is a sweet little boat! She looks just like brand spanking new in that picture.
I would seriously think about buying an Aluminum gunwale molding with the rubber insert for this boat though. That way, you could sail right up to a padded dock without bothering with fenders. I do this all the time with my O'Day 222. If your boat ever bounces off something hard like a navigation buoy, the molding would take the shock and prevent serious damage to that seam that goes around the boat. I hate to tell you how many of those darn things I've hit. If you've ever sailed in a river with a current, it seems as though these steel monsters just draw a boat to them like a magnet.
Joe
Thanks Joe,I am still considering molding as I do not want this repair to open up again.Through bolting on a molding would tighten her up permanently.
What they did on my 1986 O'Day 222 was install flat head stainless steel wood screws to hold the seam closed and they countersunk the screw heads a little. Each screw and screw head was caulked over. Then they installed the molding over that and each screw was also caulked. The rubber was inserted in the center of the stern and goes all the way around the boat and butts up to one another with a screw through each rubber where they butt up. There's some great Youtubes on the web that can teach you how to install these moldings.
Joe
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Thanks again Joe.I may have to give this repair a chance before going all out with rubrail as sailing weather is upon us here in Ct..I've yet to redo the bottom, centerboard pin and pennant replacement.Priorities first for now, but I appreciate your suggestions and may revisit this thread should that seam open up again. Cheers,Barry
Cheers,Barry
Good news,The 5200 worked very well and is holding fast.Looks like original fit.I left the clamps on for about a week to fully cure.Not so much as a creek when clamps were undone.5200 is amazing stuff!
Don't get to fond of it. It can be miserable stuff if you ever have to remove a piece of hardware that was bonded with that stuff.Good news,The 5200 worked very well and is holding fast.Looks like original fit.I left the clamps on for about a week to fully cure.Not so much as a creek when clamps were undone.5200 is amazing stuff!
I usually use 3-M 4000 when I can find it or 3-M 4200 for metal or wood bonded to fiberglass. For plastic deck plates, port lights, and hatches, I use Dow Corning 795.
I used BoatLife Boat Caulk the other day to seal my galley pump faucet next to my sink. The 4200 is just a little too strong for that particular application. Last year I used 3-4200 for it and I ripped out a little veneer from the board in the back of my sink trying to remove this galley pump.
To remove or not to remove?
I'm a new owner of a 1984 DS II Thanks for the great advice here. I've got a similar issue with the deck/to/hull joint - not as pronounced of a gap as yours, oliversdad, but more of the joint is compromised. sunbird: did you clear out any of the existing bond before adding more? I was wondering if I need to clean any of this out, or if pumping in an appropriate adhesive (5200?) would suffice?
I'm a new owner of a 1984 DS II
Thanks for the great advice here. I've got a similar issue with the deck/to/hull joint - not as pronounced of a gap as yours, oliversdad, but more of the joint is compromised. sunbird: did you clear out any of the existing bond before adding more? I was wondering if I need to clean any of this out, or if pumping in an appropriate adhesive (5200?) would suffice?Attachments
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