Lyric had a problem with the chain plats aka u-bolts aka wishbones lifting the deck. For the life of me I could not get them out. Hammering from underneath, heating, building a Spanish windlass above to try and pull them. Nothing moved them. I used a Makita veneer saw to cut a groove around the entire seam and glued it back together with an epoxy colloidal silica (Cabolsil) to thicken it.The wishbones were cut off flush with the deck and I fabricated chain plates for the stays. All in all it worked well.If I recall 5200 is for stuff you don't want to remove. So that deck joint should last forever! Is any one still using the bronze genoa track? I had a piece pull off and had to replace both sides. The Bronze track was drilled on 3 1/2 inch centers. I was able to knock those bolts out easy enough and plugged all but the first hole with wood dowels and epoxy. New rails are drilled on 4 inch centers so it was easy to start the track with a bolt through the first hole then use the bolt holes as guides drilling one hole at a time and working forward. I used 5200 as bedding and was told by a friend as I finished that I had just put down a permanent rail. The website says it can be removed mechanically but with a tensile strength of 700 PSI it's not going to peel off easily! WaltFrom:
AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comTo:
AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comDate: Thu, 14 Jan 2016 20:43:49 +0000Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Re: Deck to hull joint, Need advice please?
I ended up removing all the deck hardware, including bolts, and separated the entire deck from the hull all at the same time. I propped the deck up on 2x4 blocks every three or four feet. This gave me 3 1/2 inches between the hull and deck so I could get in there and clean out the old sealant and reapply the new. I used 3M's 5200 as the new sealant. I left guild bolts in place so the holes didn't become unaligned, had to use a hinged board to spread the hull back into place, etc. Check out the photos "Restoration Hull 709" picture #11. If your're thinking of going this route I could give you more detail. It was a big job. Mark C On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 10:11 AM, "streamfisherman100@... [AlbinVega]"
AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com wrote:
Hey Scott, I recently tackled both projects you are referring to. There may very well be better solutions than mine but I was pleased with the technique I came up with. First of all, I was worried that if I masked the individual bolt heads and painted around them I would be inviting a lot of areas for the new paint to start chipping so I did remove all the through bolts. It's not easy, but I picked up a really heavy duty corded drill for about a hundred bucks. It had a powerful motor and was geared lower than ones I was used to. By using the supplied additional handle to get leverage with both hands I was able to back the bolts out despite the old gunked up butyl tape and the occasional warped bolt. Having a good pair of vice grips keeps someone else from having to hold the nuts down below. I used Alexseal paint for the deck and topsides and have been pleased with it for both spraying and rolling and tipping applications. As far as the deteriorating butyl tape, I (before painting) used a variety of tools to separate the hull to deck joint a couple feets worth at a time. I did this using whatever flat tools I could wedge in between being careful not to chip the fiberglass. I probably only raised it an inch but that was enough to scrape the old tape and replace it with a high quality new tape. Once again, I would raise a three foot section clean out old tape, replace with new tape and then move my tools down to a new section allowing the old section to seal back down. I was afraid if I painted first I would chip the new paint, but in painting afterwards the butyl tape creeps out making getting a good clean line with masking tape difficult... This is the butyl tape I bought
Galleries by Compass Marine How To you were just doing that section it shouldn't take long, I folded the butyl!
tape to double thickness and then rolled it into a "snake" that I pushed into the clean hull to deck joint. Hope this helps. I believe I have a video of the process if you would be interested. Not sure where to put the video though. Maybe I could upload it to the vega Facebook group easily? Good luck, Richard vega 1863 Alpha Lyra