Hi,I recently noticed quite a bad leak coming from the starboard underside where the 3 x u bolts come through the deck. On further inspection I realised some of the deck to hull bolts nuts were loose so I decided to take those few out for inspection and then carried on and also took out the channel that supports the deck in this area as it was quite badly corroded and the 3 x u bolts.I can replace/repair the channel no problem but when I withdrew the bolts there was black mucky gunky mess on them so I guess the sealant has over time degraded, and the hole's are also full of this stuff for want of a better word.So my query's are:. How do I get this stuff out of the holes? as it wet how can I dry it out?. Will the hull to deck joint be disturbed/rotted/damaged? if so how do I repair, . Once cleaned out can I simply reseal the bolts in? and how best to do this?. Will I have to do this with all of the bolts or if they don't leak don't touch them?I will go around them all and check no more have slack nuts on themP.S.I'm also hoping to paint the deck this year, for those of you who have done this did you mask of the bolt heads or remove them for a better finish.Was thinking to use international Toplac any thoughts?Quite exhaustive list of asks I know but any feedback would be greatly appreciated.regardsScottVega 891
Deck to hull joint, Need advice please?
- Thread starter johnsons185
- Start date
Hi Scott,from my experience I suggest for sure: Polyurethan bi-component paints, very strong specially to UVA rays.Do you have any pictures of that problem with u-bolt ?I'm planning to start a mew restoration project on an Vega I saw recently and I'm facing with the same problem.See u all.Stefano BastianelliItaly2016-01-13 13:14 GMT+01:00 johnsons185@... [AlbinVega] AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com:
Hey Scott, I recently tackled both projects you are referring to. There may very well be better solutions than mine but I was pleased with the technique I came up with. First of all, I was worried that if I masked the individual bolt heads and painted around them I would be inviting a lot of areas for the new paint to start chipping so I did remove all the through bolts. It's not easy, but I picked up a really heavy duty corded drill for about a hundred bucks. It had a powerful motor and was geared lower than ones I was used to. By using the supplied additional handle to get leverage with both hands I was able to back the bolts out despite the old gunked up butyl tape and the occasional warped bolt. Having a good pair of vice grips keeps someone else from having to hold the nuts down below. I used Alexseal paint for the deck and topsides and have been pleased with it for both spraying and rolling and tipping applications. As far as the deteriorating butyl tape, I (before painting) used a variety of tools to separate the hull to deck joint a couple feets worth at a time. I did this using whatever flat tools I could wedge in between being careful not to chip the fiberglass. I probably only raised it an inch but that was enough to scrape the old tape and replace it with a high quality new tape. Once again, I would raise a three foot section clean out old tape, replace with new tape and then move my tools down to a new section allowing the old section to seal back down. I was afraid if I painted first I would chip the new paint, but in painting afterwards the butyl tape creeps out making getting a good clean line with masking tape difficult... This is the butyl tape I bought Galleries by Compass Marine How To you were just doing that section it shouldn't take long, I folded the butyl tape to double thickness and then rolled it into a "snake" that I pushed into the clean hull to deck joint. Hope this helps. I believe I have a video of the process if you would be interested. Not sure where to put the video though. Maybe I could upload it to the vega Facebook group easily? Good luck, Richard vega 1863 Alpha Lyra
Lyric had a problem with the chain plats aka u-bolts aka wishbones lifting the deck. For the life of me I could not get them out. Hammering from underneath, heating, building a Spanish windlass above to try and pull them. Nothing moved them. I used a Makita veneer saw to cut a groove around the entire seam and glued it back together with an epoxy colloidal silica (Cabolsil) to thicken it.The wishbones were cut off flush with the deck and I fabricated chain plates for the stays. All in all it worked well.If I recall 5200 is for stuff you don't want to remove. So that deck joint should last forever! Is any one still using the bronze genoa track? I had a piece pull off and had to replace both sides. The Bronze track was drilled on 3 1/2 inch centers. I was able to knock those bolts out easy enough and plugged all but the first hole with wood dowels and epoxy. New rails are drilled on 4 inch centers so it was easy to start the track with a bolt through the first hole then use the bolt holes as guides drilling one hole at a time and working forward. I used 5200 as bedding and was told by a friend as I finished that I had just put down a permanent rail. The website says it can be removed mechanically but with a tensile strength of 700 PSI it's not going to peel off easily! WaltFrom: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comTo: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comDate: Thu, 14 Jan 2016 20:43:49 +0000Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Re: Deck to hull joint, Need advice please?
I ended up removing all the deck hardware, including bolts, and separated the entire deck from the hull all at the same time. I propped the deck up on 2x4 blocks every three or four feet. This gave me 3 1/2 inches between the hull and deck so I could get in there and clean out the old sealant and reapply the new. I used 3M's 5200 as the new sealant. I left guild bolts in place so the holes didn't become unaligned, had to use a hinged board to spread the hull back into place, etc. Check out the photos "Restoration Hull 709" picture #11. If your're thinking of going this route I could give you more detail. It was a big job. Mark C On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 10:11 AM, "streamfisherman100@... [AlbinVega]" AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com wrote:
Hey Scott, I recently tackled both projects you are referring to. There may very well be better solutions than mine but I was pleased with the technique I came up with. First of all, I was worried that if I masked the individual bolt heads and painted around them I would be inviting a lot of areas for the new paint to start chipping so I did remove all the through bolts. It's not easy, but I picked up a really heavy duty corded drill for about a hundred bucks. It had a powerful motor and was geared lower than ones I was used to. By using the supplied additional handle to get leverage with both hands I was able to back the bolts out despite the old gunked up butyl tape and the occasional warped bolt. Having a good pair of vice grips keeps someone else from having to hold the nuts down below. I used Alexseal paint for the deck and topsides and have been pleased with it for both spraying and rolling and tipping applications. As far as the deteriorating butyl tape, I (before painting) used a variety of tools to separate the hull to deck joint a couple feets worth at a time. I did this using whatever flat tools I could wedge in between being careful not to chip the fiberglass. I probably only raised it an inch but that was enough to scrape the old tape and replace it with a high quality new tape. Once again, I would raise a three foot section clean out old tape, replace with new tape and then move my tools down to a new section allowing the old section to seal back down. I was afraid if I painted first I would chip the new paint, but in painting afterwards the butyl tape creeps out making getting a good clean line with masking tape difficult... This is the butyl tape I bought Galleries by Compass Marine How To you were just doing that section it shouldn't take long, I folded the butyl!
tape to double thickness and then rolled it into a "snake" that I pushed into the clean hull to deck joint. Hope this helps. I believe I have a video of the process if you would be interested. Not sure where to put the video though. Maybe I could upload it to the vega Facebook group easily? Good luck, Richard vega 1863 Alpha Lyra
I ended up removing all the deck hardware, including bolts, and separated the entire deck from the hull all at the same time. I propped the deck up on 2x4 blocks every three or four feet. This gave me 3 1/2 inches between the hull and deck so I could get in there and clean out the old sealant and reapply the new. I used 3M's 5200 as the new sealant. I left guild bolts in place so the holes didn't become unaligned, had to use a hinged board to spread the hull back into place, etc. Check out the photos "Restoration Hull 709" picture #11. If your're thinking of going this route I could give you more detail. It was a big job. Mark C On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 10:11 AM, "streamfisherman100@... [AlbinVega]" AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com wrote:
Hey Scott, I recently tackled both projects you are referring to. There may very well be better solutions than mine but I was pleased with the technique I came up with. First of all, I was worried that if I masked the individual bolt heads and painted around them I would be inviting a lot of areas for the new paint to start chipping so I did remove all the through bolts. It's not easy, but I picked up a really heavy duty corded drill for about a hundred bucks. It had a powerful motor and was geared lower than ones I was used to. By using the supplied additional handle to get leverage with both hands I was able to back the bolts out despite the old gunked up butyl tape and the occasional warped bolt. Having a good pair of vice grips keeps someone else from having to hold the nuts down below. I used Alexseal paint for the deck and topsides and have been pleased with it for both spraying and rolling and tipping applications. As far as the deteriorating butyl tape, I (before painting) used a variety of tools to separate the hull to deck joint a couple feets worth at a time. I did this using whatever flat tools I could wedge in between being careful not to chip the fiberglass. I probably only raised it an inch but that was enough to scrape the old tape and replace it with a high quality new tape. Once again, I would raise a three foot section clean out old tape, replace with new tape and then move my tools down to a new section allowing the old section to seal back down. I was afraid if I painted first I would chip the new paint, but in painting afterwards the butyl tape creeps out making getting a good clean line with masking tape difficult... This is the butyl tape I bought Galleries by Compass Marine How To you were just doing that section it shouldn't take long, I folded the butyl!
tape to double thickness and then rolled it into a "snake" that I pushed into the clean hull to deck joint. Hope this helps. I believe I have a video of the process if you would be interested. Not sure where to put the video though. Maybe I could upload it to the vega Facebook group easily? Good luck, Richard vega 1863 Alpha Lyra