im would like to install cockpit shower in my 79 cat 30 .
has anybody ever installed one?any ideas.
has anybody ever installed one?any ideas.
deck shower install
- Thread starter warner82
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Warner,
it's quite simple. Just find a location in your water supply hose that will allow you to cut & install a barbed tee to fish a 1/2" hose from.
After finding a location you will need to fish the hose in thru your port side lazarette. Here you will need to find some space to rout it into the deep lazarette. or you may need to cut thru your lazarette wall bebind the two drawers next to the companion way. But you can unscrew the whole cabinet frame for room to work. (I ran my line up high right under the lazarette lid along the inner wall) or you can run it down low in the lazarette. Support the hose along the inner wall.
Also it's a good idea to put in an inline valve in case you need to work on the shower. It's also a safety feature as a positive shutoff. Run this back to anywhere on the verticle wall to the area where the aft lazarette meets the seating side wall Just pick a good spot.
Find a location just below the cockpit seat level which will not interfere with you & look for transome shower fixtures at the boat stores (look for flush mounts). You will need a hole saw drill bit to put on your drill sized for the shower enclosure, The manufacture's instruction will give the size needed.
And just chaulk to seal it.
your material should be:
1/2" reinforced clear PVC tubing length as required ($$ cheap)
1/2" barbed tee nylon.
1/2" ball valve & (2) barbed adapters thread by barb
cockpit shower (flush mount)
hose slamps as required
hose supports as required
chaulk
It's really straight forward. good luck.........
C'ron
it's quite simple. Just find a location in your water supply hose that will allow you to cut & install a barbed tee to fish a 1/2" hose from.
After finding a location you will need to fish the hose in thru your port side lazarette. Here you will need to find some space to rout it into the deep lazarette. or you may need to cut thru your lazarette wall bebind the two drawers next to the companion way. But you can unscrew the whole cabinet frame for room to work. (I ran my line up high right under the lazarette lid along the inner wall) or you can run it down low in the lazarette. Support the hose along the inner wall.
Also it's a good idea to put in an inline valve in case you need to work on the shower. It's also a safety feature as a positive shutoff. Run this back to anywhere on the verticle wall to the area where the aft lazarette meets the seating side wall Just pick a good spot.
Find a location just below the cockpit seat level which will not interfere with you & look for transome shower fixtures at the boat stores (look for flush mounts). You will need a hole saw drill bit to put on your drill sized for the shower enclosure, The manufacture's instruction will give the size needed.
And just chaulk to seal it.
your material should be:
1/2" reinforced clear PVC tubing length as required ($$ cheap)
1/2" barbed tee nylon.
1/2" ball valve & (2) barbed adapters thread by barb
cockpit shower (flush mount)
hose slamps as required
hose supports as required
chaulk
It's really straight forward. good luck.........
C'ron
I'm doing the same project on my C30. I picked up the Whale Twist for it and went with the hot & cold option. It is a slick looking system and I like how it will not be too intrusive.
My question is do I really need the shut off values since I turn off the water pressure when it is not in use? If so, I'll put them next to the pump and not in the lazarette (out of the way).
The big issue I had was where to install the shower. I have an 89 with the T cockpit so I settled (for today anyway) on the aft lazarette - as close to the swim ladder as possible but opposite the shore power connection (you know that whole water and electricity not mixing thing).
Good luck!
My question is do I really need the shut off values since I turn off the water pressure when it is not in use? If so, I'll put them next to the pump and not in the lazarette (out of the way).
The big issue I had was where to install the shower. I have an 89 with the T cockpit so I settled (for today anyway) on the aft lazarette - as close to the swim ladder as possible but opposite the shore power connection (you know that whole water and electricity not mixing thing).
Good luck!
canavap,
The valves are not mandatory, but if you have guests on board, they may not be familiar with "how you do things". If they fail to turn off the water properly, and you have a flush mount fixture with a retractible shower head, water may seep into areas you don't want. This is the onle real reason. If you feel the valves won't be necessary that's fine.
I have a 1980 cat 30 so I suspect our boats are pretty similar. One suggestion since you are also running hot water would be to use armaflex insulation (cheap) on the hot water hose so you won't lose temperature to your hot water faucet. It will also make sure you don't get any condensate dripping off your hose, which could add to moisture in your lazarette.
Let me know how it goes pal......
c'ron
The valves are not mandatory, but if you have guests on board, they may not be familiar with "how you do things". If they fail to turn off the water properly, and you have a flush mount fixture with a retractible shower head, water may seep into areas you don't want. This is the onle real reason. If you feel the valves won't be necessary that's fine.
I have a 1980 cat 30 so I suspect our boats are pretty similar. One suggestion since you are also running hot water would be to use armaflex insulation (cheap) on the hot water hose so you won't lose temperature to your hot water faucet. It will also make sure you don't get any condensate dripping off your hose, which could add to moisture in your lazarette.
Let me know how it goes pal......
c'ron
so how did you get hot water? water heater? did you use a pump too? and if so what kind ,did you have to run a accumulator ,if you used a heater where did it go.
Warner - Yes, my C30 does have a hot water tank under the aft berth (just forward of the diesel tank). The water pressure pump is under there too and is before the HW tank. I will splice into both hot & cold water lines (after the pump obviously) and run them back to the aft lazarette. Two T's, some hose clamps and about 30' of hose and I'm all set. where you're located you may not need hot water. If you don't need hot water (my wife and two girls requested it), it's even easier - just splice into the cold water line.
C'ron - good tip on the insulated hose for the hot water - I wouldn't have thought to do that and I certainly wouldn't have wanted to go back and re do it. Thanks for the advice.
C'ron - good tip on the insulated hose for the hot water - I wouldn't have thought to do that and I certainly wouldn't have wanted to go back and re do it. Thanks for the advice.
Warner,
Did you get the plumbing drawing I sent last week?
Canavap has the right idea, but it seems all the boats are alittle different in plumbing/tank layout.
As I said, my H/W tank is in my deep lazarette in the cockpit. You will need a tank first and a location to mount it. Please let me know if the plumbing drawing I sent was clear to understand. If unsure find a good boat worker and come up with a game plan.
I did like what Canavap,s reply was........
CR
Did you get the plumbing drawing I sent last week?
Canavap has the right idea, but it seems all the boats are alittle different in plumbing/tank layout.
As I said, my H/W tank is in my deep lazarette in the cockpit. You will need a tank first and a location to mount it. Please let me know if the plumbing drawing I sent was clear to understand. If unsure find a good boat worker and come up with a game plan.
I did like what Canavap,s reply was........
CR
Would it be possible to simply elongate the existing hot/cold shower head up front? If you could make it long enough to pull up thru the window, then forward to any part of the deck you like.
Good idea? I guess it would require someone down below to turn on or adjust the water temp.
Oh well....
Good idea? I guess it would require someone down below to turn on or adjust the water temp.
Oh well....
Inter,
You can do the long hose setup but it is a rather quick & crude way. Not a good idea having the hose run along the length of the deck. I have safety concerns ie. slipping, tripping as such.
Also, most tanks is located aft, so you would be doubling the length of run the hot water has to travel first forward to the head area then back to the cockpit. Figure 25-40 foot total run from the tank, and you have over a half gallon of water just in the hose. With no insulation, the water temp will also have a lot of heat loss thru the hose.
Most tanks are only 4-6 gallon. Use half the hot water and the temperature drops off considerably for the remaining water. Cold water replaces the HW used in the tank.
Let's take your idea but tap into the hot & CW lines just after the HW tank, and anywhere to tap off the CW line & run to the cockpit shower fixture. I gave this info to Warner awhile back; I guess he is pondering all ways to tackle it. The more replies/info he receives, the more knowledge he will gain with which to make his choices.
Warner's orig. question was installing the shower. Then questions of tank & location on how to locate & plumb a tank for the cockpit shower. The first thing to ask yourself is how will I be using the shower, how often etc.? Figure in the expense, then how to go about it.
Sometimes it's difficult pulling all the needed info together for a project with which you have no prior experience. If still unsure, then it may be a good idea to talk to your boat friends for advice.
Warner hasn’t replied to the last 3 replies, so i'm gonna wait to hear what he decides. Great hearing from you Inter................
CR
You can do the long hose setup but it is a rather quick & crude way. Not a good idea having the hose run along the length of the deck. I have safety concerns ie. slipping, tripping as such.
Also, most tanks is located aft, so you would be doubling the length of run the hot water has to travel first forward to the head area then back to the cockpit. Figure 25-40 foot total run from the tank, and you have over a half gallon of water just in the hose. With no insulation, the water temp will also have a lot of heat loss thru the hose.
Most tanks are only 4-6 gallon. Use half the hot water and the temperature drops off considerably for the remaining water. Cold water replaces the HW used in the tank.
Let's take your idea but tap into the hot & CW lines just after the HW tank, and anywhere to tap off the CW line & run to the cockpit shower fixture. I gave this info to Warner awhile back; I guess he is pondering all ways to tackle it. The more replies/info he receives, the more knowledge he will gain with which to make his choices.
Warner's orig. question was installing the shower. Then questions of tank & location on how to locate & plumb a tank for the cockpit shower. The first thing to ask yourself is how will I be using the shower, how often etc.? Figure in the expense, then how to go about it.
Sometimes it's difficult pulling all the needed info together for a project with which you have no prior experience. If still unsure, then it may be a good idea to talk to your boat friends for advice.
Warner hasn’t replied to the last 3 replies, so i'm gonna wait to hear what he decides. Great hearing from you Inter................
CR
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|26832|319661&id=994547
I installed one of these in my cabin shower. It works pretty good and it is a cheap solution. It makes starting and stopping the water much easier and no temp adjustments between rinses.
I installed one of these in my cabin shower. It works pretty good and it is a cheap solution. It makes starting and stopping the water much easier and no temp adjustments between rinses.
so it looks like im going with a heater craft kit #402-sc and a catalina direct heater #z2452 ,i am going to try and install the head unit and the heater in the port side lazeratte ...or i will take it as it comes ,we shall see .
will keep posted
will keep posted
My 1980 CAT 30 has a standard faucet and portable shower hose screws on to the faucet. It is hooked up to both hot and cold water. I tried to find a way to insert a photo but no luck. Let me know if the photo shows up.
Hope this helps a little
.
Hope this helps a little
.Installed the Whale Twist - install was easy. Product works well and has not worked itself open which was an initial concern of mine. The only issue was that I had to reduce the 1/2" hose to 3/8" (1/2" OD). Easy fix. I didn't put on the shut off valves as I always turn off the water pressure pump when not in use. I can always add them down the road if necessary.
To set the Hot/Cold mix, I found the right setting and put a line on the handle that I'll set it to every time I turn it on. That limits wasted water.
Hey Canavap, I just bought the whale twist. How did you connect the hose to the supplied fittings? Did you need to by an additional piece or did the supplied fitting come apart? I think I also have a 1/2" hose so I might have to decrease the size as well.
Big Muffin,
I did choose to use the fittings they provided but I had to reduce the 1/2" reinforced hose to 3/8" (1/2" OD) reinforced hose. Only a short piece of 3/8" hose is needed (mine are around 1 foot but could be as short as a few inches). About $12 for the 1/2" to 3/8" nylon couplers, hose clamps and a 2' piece of 3/8' hose.
To connect the hose, just push it into the fitting. I was skeptical of these fittings originally, but they are holding tight with no leaks. My plumber friend tells me that these fittings work fine and that I shouldn't worry. One note of caution - once the hose goes in the supplied fittings, its there for good!
The other thought I had was to keep the 1/2" hose and get a fitting that takes the 1/2" hose to a threaded female fitting (I think it's 3/4" but don't quote me) as I was more comfortable with these types of fittings. Only issue was that these fittings were only available in brass and not in nylon or bronze. That's why I went with the first approach.
Good luck!
Patrick
I did choose to use the fittings they provided but I had to reduce the 1/2" reinforced hose to 3/8" (1/2" OD) reinforced hose. Only a short piece of 3/8" hose is needed (mine are around 1 foot but could be as short as a few inches). About $12 for the 1/2" to 3/8" nylon couplers, hose clamps and a 2' piece of 3/8' hose.
To connect the hose, just push it into the fitting. I was skeptical of these fittings originally, but they are holding tight with no leaks. My plumber friend tells me that these fittings work fine and that I shouldn't worry. One note of caution - once the hose goes in the supplied fittings, its there for good!
The other thought I had was to keep the 1/2" hose and get a fitting that takes the 1/2" hose to a threaded female fitting (I think it's 3/4" but don't quote me) as I was more comfortable with these types of fittings. Only issue was that these fittings were only available in brass and not in nylon or bronze. That's why I went with the first approach.
Good luck!
Patrick
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