Deck repair question ...

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Scott

Yes, sadly I am one of those people who purchased a boat without moisture meter in hand and went ahead with the purchase even though I noticed soft decks (but only in the areas underneath the ports). My ports are old and cracked, both in the window and the frame and I have only now just decided to spring for new Beckson ports, which have yet to be installed. Attempts at sealing the problem areas have helped but have not been completely satisfactory. When I do notice water inside the boat, it generally runs down the edges of the headliner, which extends down below the decks, and drips with the molasses colored water that signifies core rot. The areas that are soft are primarily behind the shrouds, about as far back as the trailing edge of the windows. There is some softness just in front of the shrouds, which can be seen peeking below the genny in the picture. There had been water leaking thru the chain plate assembly on the deck because it had been loose, until I sealed and tightened the deck assembly. The assembly that attaches to the bulkhead below the deck is solid and the bulkhead is in very good condition. What would be the best reference for deck repair? Is it something that can be done while the boat is in the water or is it only to be done while on the hard? If I do the deck in the area where the chain plate is attached, I assume that I should have the mast down. I had in mind to outline the soft areas (maybe 3 to 4 feet long for the width of the deck below the windows on both sides) and make a surface cut of the fiberglass top and the core with a small, battery operated circular saw, being careful to not go thru the bottom fiberglass layer, salvage the top fiberglass layer for re-use, remove the core, lay-up the new core and replace the top skin using epoxy to bond it to the new core. Then refill the outline where the saw cut was made for removal. Does this sound like a valid plan? All advise and references will be most welcome! :)
 

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Alex

Deck repair

Scott, Most deck repair, if possible, is done from the under side. Take the head liner off and see how much you can access. You may drill a few small holes to find out where good core begins. You can put back or replace a headliner easier than matching a gap on the outside. You can do this on the water since the outer shell is still there to keep rain out. You can replace the core with balsa or marine plywood encapsulated with epoxy and micro-ballon. Check out the West-System books on how to do this first. Next time get a Surveyor. Only cost about $10 a foot. Save you that much in repairs. Good luck.
 

NYSail

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Jan 6, 2006
3,178
Beneteau 423 Mt. Sinai, NY
Complete

I did a complete recore on my decks when I bought my boat. Decks had significant wet areas that I could have spot fixed, however I figured I would do the entire deck. I did not use balsa, I used nidacore which is a honeycomb plastic core material. In the archives you should find my thread when I did the project spring 2006. Any questions ask. Good Luck Greg
 
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Scott

Thanks, Greg ...

I have done a few archive searches and can't find that specific thread, although I have found a few of your other references to nidacore. It sounds like your description is in the Pearson forum? Could you give me a phrase to help with the search? I think I would much rather work from above, rather than from below. Aside from working against gravity, removing the headliner does not appear to be an easy process or replacement, and I hate working inside my boat with the lack of head room, I am pinching a nerve in my neck every time I take something on inside the cabin. Besides, the heat and lack of a cooling breeze is a big drawback.
 
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Scott Fuller

Here is a pretty comrehensive treatise

http://triton381.com/projects/restoration/recore.html This is a project we will have to tackle at some point on our boat, although we are experiencing any soft decks or delamination yet. The hull liner on an Oday makes it a little more difficult to access from inside, so I think we will probably address it from outside as well.
 
Jun 14, 2004
79
Ericson 29 Biddeford, ME
Same Problem

I have a few areas on my Ericson 29 I have to address at some point. Planning on storing at my house this winter so I can take care of it. Plan is basically the same as yours. 1. Cut off top layer of deck with RotoZip 2. Remove all rotting core. 3. Replace with new core, I like the looks of the NidaCore a lot. 4. Epoxy topy layer back on. 5. I also plan on redoing my non skid so will be filling my existing molded non skid with epoxy past to make it flat and then covering with Durabak or similar non skid paint. I won't have to worry about the cut lines that way. Good Luck
 
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