OK...I am working on the boat...and it occured to me that I dont have enough projects already... :shock: :? I am gonna (maybe) install a deck pipe at the bow for the anchor rode...but I am a bit concerned about water intrusion, where the line or chain enters the pipe... I am also ignorant about the orientation of the cap...It would make sense to mount it, where the hole in the cap is facing astern, but I would think that the rode would feed better if it faced forward. Being in middle Georgia...I can't run out to the marina and stare at others boats... If you have one...how is it mounted? Do you have a problem with water running into it, if the bow dips into a wave? Any info will be appreciated! Thanks in advance! SKip
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I agree with Higgs Mount the hole facing aft.
And you could tape the opeing off when you are leaving the boat for a while, using say, riggers tape or duct tape if you are really worried about water getting in that fitting. Facing the hole for the chain towards the direction the boat is usually moving in is not a good idea as it will get wet easily and water will get down into the bilge through the rode. Facing it away from the prevailing spray is preferable to allowing a constant leak. The only hardship you will face is when paying out the anchor line which you hopefully do not need to use that often but you have to pull the anchor rode out from after the hole in the hawsepipe,
And you could tape the opeing off when you are leaving the boat for a while, using say, riggers tape or duct tape if you are really worried about water getting in that fitting. Facing the hole for the chain towards the direction the boat is usually moving in is not a good idea as it will get wet easily and water will get down into the bilge through the rode. Facing it away from the prevailing spray is preferable to allowing a constant leak. The only hardship you will face is when paying out the anchor line which you hopefully do not need to use that often but you have to pull the anchor rode out from after the hole in the hawsepipe,
Hawse pipe
When you have a chain link in the the hole between the pipe and the cover, you are left with a very small hole. Being in middle Georgia, I would suspect you are a lake sailor. I can't imagine that you would be taking that much water over the bow sailing in a lake. If it is rain water you are concerned about, I suspect even less rain water will intrude. Besides, these things feed into the anchor line locker, which (on my boat at least, drains into the bilge. What little water gets in there is quickly dispatched overboard by the bilge pump. Sounds like a non-issue to me, but I may be wrong. If it really concerns you, position it so the hole is in the rear.
When you have a chain link in the the hole between the pipe and the cover, you are left with a very small hole. Being in middle Georgia, I would suspect you are a lake sailor. I can't imagine that you would be taking that much water over the bow sailing in a lake. If it is rain water you are concerned about, I suspect even less rain water will intrude. Besides, these things feed into the anchor line locker, which (on my boat at least, drains into the bilge. What little water gets in there is quickly dispatched overboard by the bilge pump. Sounds like a non-issue to me, but I may be wrong. If it really concerns you, position it so the hole is in the rear.
Another point of view...
I choose to mount my hawse pipe with the opening facing toward mid-ship... Logic went something like this. 1. Forward facing; not good because of too much water coming over the bow and into the chain opening. 2. Outboard facing, same as 1. 3. Aft facing would reduce water entering the opening but there was a chance that the chain would jam in the open between the cap & pipe when letting out the rode. 4. Mid-ship facing provided for minimal water entry and easy extraction of the anchor rode. The opening is small with the chain in place so I thought I could live with the risk. Silly but that was my thinking and I am sticking to it. Y You can see the installation at: http://www.sailingseadragon.com/AnchorLocker.htm Good luck Garner PS: I still have a long list of boat projects should you run out.
I choose to mount my hawse pipe with the opening facing toward mid-ship... Logic went something like this. 1. Forward facing; not good because of too much water coming over the bow and into the chain opening. 2. Outboard facing, same as 1. 3. Aft facing would reduce water entering the opening but there was a chance that the chain would jam in the open between the cap & pipe when letting out the rode. 4. Mid-ship facing provided for minimal water entry and easy extraction of the anchor rode. The opening is small with the chain in place so I thought I could live with the risk. Silly but that was my thinking and I am sticking to it. Y You can see the installation at: http://www.sailingseadragon.com/AnchorLocker.htm Good luck Garner PS: I still have a long list of boat projects should you run out.
Kewl
Kewl website! Thanks everyone for the input.... I should have included a bit more info...I was basically wondering how other had theirs... I am refiting a '72 Venture V2-24...I am planning to run the GA/Fla ICW with it, and depending on some things, over to the Bahamas... I am trying to make the boat as "idiot-proof as possible... There is no defined "bilge area", so I am very interested in keeping her as dry as possible. This is a weekender type of boat, that I will probably spend a week or two at the most in... I am going over the interior, and opening up LOADS of storage, and I figured now would be the time to put a chain locker in the v-berth...Because of the lack of a deep bilge, I may place a plug in the bottom, so that drainage can be controlled...so naturally, I wouldnt want it to get a lot of water in it. I certainly dont anticipate breakers coming over the bow...but then again...I want to be built right if it does. THX agn! Skip Here is my website with my bit of progress... ;-) privateer-tradin.com
Kewl website! Thanks everyone for the input.... I should have included a bit more info...I was basically wondering how other had theirs... I am refiting a '72 Venture V2-24...I am planning to run the GA/Fla ICW with it, and depending on some things, over to the Bahamas... I am trying to make the boat as "idiot-proof as possible... There is no defined "bilge area", so I am very interested in keeping her as dry as possible. This is a weekender type of boat, that I will probably spend a week or two at the most in... I am going over the interior, and opening up LOADS of storage, and I figured now would be the time to put a chain locker in the v-berth...Because of the lack of a deep bilge, I may place a plug in the bottom, so that drainage can be controlled...so naturally, I wouldnt want it to get a lot of water in it. I certainly dont anticipate breakers coming over the bow...but then again...I want to be built right if it does. THX agn! Skip Here is my website with my bit of progress... ;-) privateer-tradin.com
Bilge????
I would never consider draining an anchor locker into the bilge. It is a simple matter to make it an overboard drain. Just for the sake of argument, lets say you get into a squall, and are taking water over the bow. There are lots of possible scenarios, but they all involve the hatch on the anchor locker.Remember Murphy's law. Anything happens to that hatch cover, and any water that goes into the locker goes into the boat. And there is a limit to how much a bilge pump can pump.
I would never consider draining an anchor locker into the bilge. It is a simple matter to make it an overboard drain. Just for the sake of argument, lets say you get into a squall, and are taking water over the bow. There are lots of possible scenarios, but they all involve the hatch on the anchor locker.Remember Murphy's law. Anything happens to that hatch cover, and any water that goes into the locker goes into the boat. And there is a limit to how much a bilge pump can pump.
Yes the Bildge.
OK, Nice and Easy, you are making making a valid point, but you are also making unwarranted assumptions. My Hunter 27 anchor locker does not have a "hatch". I guess a better name for it is the anchor rode locker. The anchor is stowed by attachment to the bow pulpit. The anchor chain and rode feeds through the Hawse pipe which is the only egress to the compartment in the bow where the anchor rode is stored. THERE IS NO HATCH COVER to come loose or get torn off. Besides, I didn't design the freaking boat. Apparently that configuration works pretty well since there are quite a few Hunters like that out there and I get very little water in the compartment.
OK, Nice and Easy, you are making making a valid point, but you are also making unwarranted assumptions. My Hunter 27 anchor locker does not have a "hatch". I guess a better name for it is the anchor rode locker. The anchor is stowed by attachment to the bow pulpit. The anchor chain and rode feeds through the Hawse pipe which is the only egress to the compartment in the bow where the anchor rode is stored. THERE IS NO HATCH COVER to come loose or get torn off. Besides, I didn't design the freaking boat. Apparently that configuration works pretty well since there are quite a few Hunters like that out there and I get very little water in the compartment.
John, it works either way
Our previous boat, an E27, had a similar pipe cap which I choose to seal with putty to preclude water intrusion. When deploying the anchor, it would simply pull out as the putty wasn't very adhesive and it was a simple matter to renew it when necessary with no mess resulting.
Our previous boat, an E27, had a similar pipe cap which I choose to seal with putty to preclude water intrusion. When deploying the anchor, it would simply pull out as the putty wasn't very adhesive and it was a simple matter to renew it when necessary with no mess resulting.
My experience
I have had 3 boats in the last 25 years and all had a hawse pipe leading to the forpeak which, if water did get in, would drain into the bilge. Sailing the Great Lakes can easily put a lot of water over the deck and never has the opening for the rode on the hawse pipe been a source of any significant water ingress. I would be more concerned with the safety of a Venture going over to the Bahams. They are pretty lightly built boats.
I have had 3 boats in the last 25 years and all had a hawse pipe leading to the forpeak which, if water did get in, would drain into the bilge. Sailing the Great Lakes can easily put a lot of water over the deck and never has the opening for the rode on the hawse pipe been a source of any significant water ingress. I would be more concerned with the safety of a Venture going over to the Bahams. They are pretty lightly built boats.
Tank
Well, I dont want to get into the "What makes a safe boat" issue, as there is no correct answer...an idiot can sink a Swan, if he tries hard enough...as well as an intelligent, careful person can pilot a POS to great lenghts. Suffice it to say, that there will be extensive "ditch" and coastal sailing, before any Bahamian courses are set... Although for the record, this Venture would seem to built like a tank. A very thick, solid, pre-oil-embargo...tank. I do realise that it wasn't designed for ocean crossings though...*box Thanks for the input on the Deck pipe! Draining overboard, is an idea that I hadn't considered...But, I would think that the box would need to be high enough for the drain to be above the waterline...I wanted to keep the box low to keep the COG low...(and the construction simple...) I will keep it in mind!
;D Skip
Well, I dont want to get into the "What makes a safe boat" issue, as there is no correct answer...an idiot can sink a Swan, if he tries hard enough...as well as an intelligent, careful person can pilot a POS to great lenghts. Suffice it to say, that there will be extensive "ditch" and coastal sailing, before any Bahamian courses are set... Although for the record, this Venture would seem to built like a tank. A very thick, solid, pre-oil-embargo...tank. I do realise that it wasn't designed for ocean crossings though...*box Thanks for the input on the Deck pipe! Draining overboard, is an idea that I hadn't considered...But, I would think that the box would need to be high enough for the drain to be above the waterline...I wanted to keep the box low to keep the COG low...(and the construction simple...) I will keep it in mind!
;D Skip- Status