Deck Painting

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May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
I had asked some questions when I painted my hull, and should have followed the advice given here. The results on the hull were very satisfactory, but the paint is not going to stand up as I had expected. Should have listened to those who know better. Now I am getting ready to paint the deck, and have to decide on the paint finish. Do you guys use a high gloss or some kind of satin. I am wondering if the texture of a non skid will keep a gloss paint from reflecting too much sunlight back into the eyes, or should I go with a satin or a semi gloss. This time I am going to follow the advice I get here.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
I have used gloss industrial machinery enamel withh good results for ten years. Be sure to get exterior grade because the color fastness is markedly better.
 
May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
Glare problems

Ross,
Does the gloss paint present any problems with glare. That was my main concern. Summer time down here is very bright. My thinking is that the anti skid will break the glare up to some extent, just not sure it would be enough.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Re: Glare problems

Not even close to the glare from the water.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,760
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Ross,
Does the gloss paint present any problems with glare. That was my main concern. Summer time down here is very bright. My thinking is that the anti skid will break the glare up to some extent, just not sure it would be enough.
With AwlGrip you generally add in a flattening agent to combat the glare and I'm sure you can do it with the other two part paints as well. I would encourage you to try a two part paint for the decks. The cost of the paint vs. the time and labor you'll have into it makes the cost of paint quite insignificant in the whole scheme of things.
 
Jan 1, 2009
371
Atlantic 42 Honolulu
Check out KiiwGrip (I think that's what the US importer is calling it).

--Tom.
 
May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
This Time

Mainesail,
Yep, this time I will follow the advice of the board. Even if I am stubborn, hard headed and cheap. Way too much time and labor involved to not do it right, and others are more right than I on this.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,760
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Mainesail,
Yep, this time I will follow the advice of the board. Even if I am stubborn, hard headed and cheap. Way too much time and labor involved to not do it right, and others are more right than I on this.

I don't think it's a matter of right or wrong more a matter of been there, done that, learned the hard way:doh:. We're just paying it forward so the next guy won't have to deal with what we have...;)
 

TimCup

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Jan 30, 2008
304
Catalina 22 St. Pete
Nice N Easy, a direct answer-

I painted the deck on my boat with a 2-part paint, automotive use (commercial van), off-white,tinted to match. I used the usual high gloss paint you see on new cars, and the glare isn't a problem at all, probably because there are so little flat spots, and because light colors seem to reflect their color, unlike, say chrome which reflects the light itself. As someone else said, the glare from the water is WAY more of an issue.

On the positive side, there's enough glare to make my dock buddies jealous!!;)


cup
 
Jan 1, 2009
371
Atlantic 42 Honolulu
The Kiwi Grip is really an outstanding product, available here in the chandlery:

http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail.htm?fno=400&group=1292

Yes, I think so, too! I did some areas of my deck with it in New Zealand in 2001 and they have held up at least as well if not better than the two pot areas they are next to. It is also comparatively wonderful to work with. And, of course, you can have it tinted to the color of your choice at your local hardware paint store.

--Tom.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Used one-part.

Years ago I used Interlux Toplac for the "white" part of the decks which has held up beautifully. Then two years ago I did the non-skid with Interlux "Interdeck". Both of these paints are one-part polyurethane but seem extremely durable. I first did the anchor locker and let it set through a winter to see if I liked the color and durability. Then in the spring I finished the remainder(the tape in the picture was to seal the locker for the winter, not part of the painting project).
 

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Jun 21, 2007
2,118
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
I painted over the original anti-skid portion of my deck about six months ago with 2 part polyurethane (Interlux Perfection) mixed with lots (better than 50%) of their 2-part flattening agent. The flattening agent dilutes the pigment, so if you go this direction, best to pick a color that matches close to what you currently have to paint over.

The end result is virtually like a new boat finish.

The original non-skid relief texture on my boat was still in great physical shape. Just the appearance after 28 years needed improvement. The painted result is "flat" except when the sunlight angle is low, I do notice that some gloss still remains, despite the flattening agent. The reflection is noticeable, but not objectionable. Application without the flattening agent, I think would have a very noticeable gloss over a previous non-skid, despite the original anti skid relief being in good shape. Depending on your preference, the gloss may not be objectionable, but I think you will always notice it.

I added Interlux's non-skid powder to the paint. I am glad I did because the 2-part polyurethane is very non-porous (compared to the original surface) and without the anti-skid powder, I think the end result would have been more slippery that I would have expected.

I used a brush for the non-skid section. Not a hint of brush marks. Advantage of painting over existing non-skid texture -- very foregiving of application technique.

Before I started, I asked around about surface prep needs. All advise was that since the subsurface was in good shape, and never painted before, the 2-part could go right over without a primer. So far, it seems to have stuck real good.

As everyone states as critical, follow all instructions from the manufacturer to the letter. If in doubt ask. (Don't know if you noticed, but several days ago I posted about a failure of mine with 2-part polyurethane where I painted it over a one year old 2-part polyurethane surface. I didn't sand first. The new coat failed to stick -- complete failure. Fortunately the area was small and removable from the boat. I was able to pressure wash off all of the new coat back down the the underneath coat; which is totally undamaged. The manufacturer gives instructions that previous coats that have cured beyond their stated time limit must be sanded before painting over again. I didn't and the result was about as bad as could be.)

Also, if the non-skid already has been painted in the past, ask around to make sure about the new paint's compatability.

regards,
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
I seriously doubt that a painted non-skid will give you the same "non-skid" capability as the original finish (as on the Hunters) or something like the Kiwi finish. The original non-skid on "most" of the Hunters was a paintable/rollable gel coat. This stuff will last for 20 years and requires almost no maintenance. You can power wash it and use anything you want to use to clean the rest of the boat. Kiwi is probably a slightly better non-skid finish (not to skid), but I do not know what the anticipated life of the product is.

The gel coat finish is probably also cheaper than any of the paints that everyone is purchasing (about $40/gal).

Before you think about these other finishes think about re-doing it with the original finish once for the next 20 years.
 

dubh

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Oct 16, 2007
8
- - chicago
1. Clean. No, really clean. Check with water break or black light. Remove all silicone, grease, etc. ALL!
2. Dry. Absolutely dry. Check the humidity at your work site (online weather stations are all around) Make sure it will remain dry until the coating is completely cured.
3. Roughen. The 20% rule applies: the surface needs to be some 20% profile of the coating finish thickness. Use the correct tool for the surface.
4. Read the can. Start with the safety part; get the MSDS and read that too. Next read the surface preparation guide, then the mixing, then the application, then the curing guide.
5. Repeat step 4.
6. If you think you are qualified to proceed, go the the coating store, and ask the oldest guy there if he thinks you can do this project.
7. If he thinks so, give it a go.
If it fails, odds are it's because of steps 1-4, in that order.
(also adding flattening agents weakens coatings; better to buy a lower sheen)
 
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