Deck paint for Hunter 170

[stickinthemud57]

A search revealed a good deal of info and advice regarding bottom paint for the Hunter 170, but I did not see any advice for painting the cockpit.

After removing some delaminating fiberglass that a previous owner had applied, I needed to apply paint to the cockpit (floor, seats, gunwales, etc.). I found the Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X paint and primer (flat, spray) is a really good match for the existing color, but is bad about catching dirt and scuffs. Rustoleum makes the same product in gloss (which I have used on the hull with good results), but I worry that it might prove slippery when wet.

Any recommendations for a paint for the deck areas? Both regular and non-skid.

Thanks!

 

[stickinthemud57]

Having done some internet research, I am considering using either the Petit or Interlux Brightside one-part product for the basic coat with Intergrip added for the non-slip areas.

Thoughts? Advice? Alternatives?

 

[BobbyFunn]

Paint isnt going to look that great compared to plastic.

Your paint choices might be experimental. Do the paint manufactures have a primer designed for "low energy" plastics.

I used rustoleum topsides on my bottom hull since i dry sail and to cover up dock rash repairs. It looks great, but it chips off with docks not well designed for my boat. The front trailer bunk is brutal on the bow.

I used it for the centerboard and it came right off with groundings over shallow sandbars. Stripped it and replaced that with gelcoat.

Your big wear spot will be around the rudder post with traffic and the boom digging in while you pin it to the mast.

Youll need a special primer for "asa" plastic. It will have the correct adhesion promoters.

WHITE, WHITE, WHITE, WHITE, WHITE, WHITE, WHITE.

Not off white, eggshell, antique, naval, flat, whatever..Any other color may bubble and delaminate the luran.

GLOSSY, GLOSSY, GLOSSY, GLOSSY

I made some repairs and mods and got rid of some luran so that i could put hydroturf or seadeck down. I painted afterwards with spray glossy white spray paint.

Rustoleum unversal glossy white.

Lay it on heavy, and close so it doesnt dry before sticking. Do 3-4 coats in about 15-30 minutes between them.

Week later you can compound to get rid of paint overspray dust.

 

[stickinthemud57]

Thanks!

At first, while looking for something quick and readily available, I laid down a good amount of Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X paint and primer over the existing finish, which is a combination of Luran, fiberglass, and some other paint. It has adhered well, but because of the flat finish is catching dirt and scuffs like crazy, so gloss is making sense at this point.

I have read reviews of several products that look promising, but are brush or roller applied. I like better the idea of spraying, even at the added expense of working from 12-oz spray cans.

You say you got rid of some Luran so you could put Hydroturf or Seadek down. Does this mean that neither contact cement or the self adhesive backing of Seadek will adhere to Luran? Does "got rid of" mean stripped away to the foam underneath? Sorry for the extra questions, but I am having trouble parsing that.

My thinking is that if I can get good adhesion with a primer and paint, that adhering to that should not be a problem. Is this a misconception?

Thanks for your response!

A little surprised that no one else is chiming in. How 'bout it, gents?

 

[BobbyFunn]

Theres a post that has the issues you may come across.

Parting out H170 in AZ

This gap between the fiberglass and luran would be repaired with MMA Can you expand on the MMA process for us? I’ve been reading a bit so have a basic grasp but am interested in what you have decided to use with the Luran-S. Methyl Methacrylate Adhesives

forums.sailboatowners.com

I put down some soft grip pads and ended up with ruined benches and ruined decking. The blue color caused massive bubbles to form delaminating the luran and creating tiny fractures.

I used 3m high temp spray glue and the hydroturf lifted right up after a month. I was able to salvage every piece. Contact cement is based on acetone. It will work well on luran, if not ruin the surface forever. I can use any glue i want now since its epoxy and paint.

The repair involved removeing large flat sections of luran and replacing with layers of biaxial and epoxy.

The hydroturf was reapplied with contact cement. I will not be able to salvage any it. I can use any glue i like in those areas now since it is simple GRP epoxy and paint now.

So far so good. Some of the large cuts of hydroturf on the benches are bubbling up in the center but im pretty sure its because the hydroturf is not closed cell and the trapped water evaporates lifting it off. Ill report back if the spraypaint under the contact cement failed. The edges are very tightly adhered.

Next time ill put seadeck down. That is closed cell.

Best to just put WHITE grip tape down and buy cushions.

If you roll on paint try the cuddy cabin deck first. Its a high wear area, flat, accumulates litter fast. Youll see how well it works very fast.

Your spray paint job gets dirty fast becase you didnt compound the over spray off. You have billions of tiny peaks providing grip and surface area for grime.

I still consider my most recent mod experimental so i did not compound either and i can feel the overspray on the high rails and seat backs. Annoying AF.

When the hydroturf fails ill give the mod a better sanding then find out how your paint job is coming along

I rattle canned a car once. The "Krylon Ivory Warrior". Guy i sold it too said it was an odd color for this model. Couldnt tell it was rattlecanned it until he opened the doors to see bright white. Compounded that to a perfect finish.

 

[stickinthemud57]

Wow, you have been through the wringer with that deck material. Think I will try to find a way to avoid that!

Your suggestion to test in the cuddy cabin area sounds like a good one. That way I can see what works over the summer and do the rest during the off-season.