I've bought a Hunter 22 1984 and the deck/hull looks really dirty (old looking). I've tried to use bleach to whitening out but didn't work well. Any recommendations ? Thanks
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DON'T USE bleach & whitening
you are hurting the fiberglass! Try a three step wax process, cleaner, polish then sealer. I had a 1974 San Juan and could make it shine. The problem was the shine didn't last.
you are hurting the fiberglass! Try a three step wax process, cleaner, polish then sealer. I had a 1974 San Juan and could make it shine. The problem was the shine didn't last.
Acid bath...
I don't know if your hurting the fiberglass with the bleach, it comes in a plastic bottle after all, but here is a thought for you: Give her an acid bath. Our marina always makes us fill out a form for winter storage that covers a lot of things: Who is going to winterize and store the kicker, mast up or down, do I want an acid bath to remove hard water stains... I asked about the acid bath and was told that they use Lysol gel toilet bowl cleaner to clean the hull. I watched them do it once and have been doing it myself since. Gloves and gogles required. Squirt it on and brush it around lightly with a soft brush on a pole. The stains disapear inside of five minutes and you power wash the hull. I follow that with a new coat of wax and walk away for the winter. It doesn't seem to be hurting my hull any and it is snow white to the water line. You might try a small area first to see how it goes...
I don't know if your hurting the fiberglass with the bleach, it comes in a plastic bottle after all, but here is a thought for you: Give her an acid bath. Our marina always makes us fill out a form for winter storage that covers a lot of things: Who is going to winterize and store the kicker, mast up or down, do I want an acid bath to remove hard water stains... I asked about the acid bath and was told that they use Lysol gel toilet bowl cleaner to clean the hull. I watched them do it once and have been doing it myself since. Gloves and gogles required. Squirt it on and brush it around lightly with a soft brush on a pole. The stains disapear inside of five minutes and you power wash the hull. I follow that with a new coat of wax and walk away for the winter. It doesn't seem to be hurting my hull any and it is snow white to the water line. You might try a small area first to see how it goes...
Island Girl
Use Island Girl products I have used them for years now on two boats. They work great, but I would suggest that you buy the IG Pink, IG SEAGLOW and the SILKENSEAL. It will be a bit expensive but worth it.
Use Island Girl products I have used them for years now on two boats. They work great, but I would suggest that you buy the IG Pink, IG SEAGLOW and the SILKENSEAL. It will be a bit expensive but worth it.
Restoration process of old gelcoat
1. use a strong caustic detergent (such as a sodium silicate based detergent) to remove oil and 'organic' staining including mold/mildew, then rinse 2. followup with a mixture of oxalic acid and water to remove/bleach out rust and tannin (brown) stains 3. Flat sand the surfaces with 1000--->2000 grit wet and dry sand paper (in a sanding block) using a few drops of dishwahsing detergent in water as the 'lubricant' to remove the surface layer of oxidation ... and make the surface FLAT again. 4. Get a variable high speed autobody shop polisher with 3M knobby foam polishing bonnet. Start with 3M coarse fiberglass polishing compound for the worst areas, then follow up with 3M "Finesse-it, then Follow up with 3M "Perfect-it". Dont mix grits with bonnets (foam bonnets may be washed). The surface at this point should be back to nearly show-room NEW condition, then wax with a natural carnauba wax. Keep the power buffer 'moving' at all times so you dont 'burn through' the gel. Work in 2ft. by 2ft. squares when powerbuffing . Be especially careful on buffing out the gel on corners, etc. If the gelcoat begins to show 'thinness' then the boat needs to be painted. Also, before you begin this restoration get a cheapy pocket microscope from Radio Shack, etc. and examine if the gelcoat has become 'alligatored' .... teeny cracks in the surface that look like a dried out mud puddle. If alligatored, then the only remedy is is sand deeply down into the gel and then paint it. BTW .... even if you elect to use 'temporary' acrylic coatings such Polyglow be sure to completely clean (as above) the gelcoat BEFORE you apply it. Use the remdey above THEN use the cleaners recommended by the temporary acrylic coating manufacturers .... for best results. Hope this helps.
1. use a strong caustic detergent (such as a sodium silicate based detergent) to remove oil and 'organic' staining including mold/mildew, then rinse 2. followup with a mixture of oxalic acid and water to remove/bleach out rust and tannin (brown) stains 3. Flat sand the surfaces with 1000--->2000 grit wet and dry sand paper (in a sanding block) using a few drops of dishwahsing detergent in water as the 'lubricant' to remove the surface layer of oxidation ... and make the surface FLAT again. 4. Get a variable high speed autobody shop polisher with 3M knobby foam polishing bonnet. Start with 3M coarse fiberglass polishing compound for the worst areas, then follow up with 3M "Finesse-it, then Follow up with 3M "Perfect-it". Dont mix grits with bonnets (foam bonnets may be washed). The surface at this point should be back to nearly show-room NEW condition, then wax with a natural carnauba wax. Keep the power buffer 'moving' at all times so you dont 'burn through' the gel. Work in 2ft. by 2ft. squares when powerbuffing . Be especially careful on buffing out the gel on corners, etc. If the gelcoat begins to show 'thinness' then the boat needs to be painted. Also, before you begin this restoration get a cheapy pocket microscope from Radio Shack, etc. and examine if the gelcoat has become 'alligatored' .... teeny cracks in the surface that look like a dried out mud puddle. If alligatored, then the only remedy is is sand deeply down into the gel and then paint it. BTW .... even if you elect to use 'temporary' acrylic coatings such Polyglow be sure to completely clean (as above) the gelcoat BEFORE you apply it. Use the remdey above THEN use the cleaners recommended by the temporary acrylic coating manufacturers .... for best results. Hope this helps.
Key words
"Keep the power buffer 'moving' at all times so you dont 'burn through' the gel." Right, you go through the gelcoat on your 22 year old boat and then you are in a world of hurt. You'll be posting questions about hull painting. Your boat will be on the hard instead of in the water. Again, I say just clean it up and call it good or use PoliGlow. And don't be fooled by one photo. Google PoliGlow and you will find many satisfied users who followed the directions and are very happy.
"Keep the power buffer 'moving' at all times so you dont 'burn through' the gel." Right, you go through the gelcoat on your 22 year old boat and then you are in a world of hurt. You'll be posting questions about hull painting. Your boat will be on the hard instead of in the water. Again, I say just clean it up and call it good or use PoliGlow. And don't be fooled by one photo. Google PoliGlow and you will find many satisfied users who followed the directions and are very happy.
RIchH's process
Thanks. Very clear note. I have a suggestion, though, abou twhat to do with crazed or worn-through gel coat, and that is to re-gelcoat the hull. I know this can be done, as it is a remedy for serious blistering. I suspect it costs a fortune, though.
Thanks. Very clear note. I have a suggestion, though, abou twhat to do with crazed or worn-through gel coat, and that is to re-gelcoat the hull. I know this can be done, as it is a remedy for serious blistering. I suspect it costs a fortune, though.
poli-glow
I'm in my third season with one poliglow treatment (applied according to instructions)and the only places that need touch up are places where I've gotten against the slip. No yellowing or peeling anywhere. I plan to haul the boat this fall and reaply poli-glow to the topsides again.
I'm in my third season with one poliglow treatment (applied according to instructions)and the only places that need touch up are places where I've gotten against the slip. No yellowing or peeling anywhere. I plan to haul the boat this fall and reaply poli-glow to the topsides again.
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