I have a leak in the aft cabin, the water runs down behind the liner and soaks all the foam bed. The boat is a 1995 35.5 Legend. Someone told me that the leak most probably comes from the deck/hull joint. A solution he offered was to remove the aluminum toe rail and pry open the joint (a bit) remove the old caulking (5200) and reseal with 5200. I have re-tightened all the bolts already. My question is if anybody has experienced the same leak and if you have removed the toe rail to fix it. How long? Did you have someone do it and how much? Also I'm considering putting Dri-Deck Panels under the foam bed (untill I fix the leak) to allow water to run under the and not soak them. They are expensive ($4.99 @ sq.ft., so does enyone know of a similar cheaper product? Thanks in advance. Ozana Halik
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Furnace/AC filters do the trick...
on my boat. Home Depot or Lowes sells unframed filter panels. They are blue in color and used to be available by the roll. I just replaced mine under my Vberth cushions. Seven of them were under $20. In our humid climate they keep the bottom of the cushions fairly dry. I do have to air them out every couple of months.
on my boat. Home Depot or Lowes sells unframed filter panels. They are blue in color and used to be available by the roll. I just replaced mine under my Vberth cushions. Seven of them were under $20. In our humid climate they keep the bottom of the cushions fairly dry. I do have to air them out every couple of months.
Same problem
I have a 1990 35.5 and had the same problem. Shortly after I bought the boat (used) I thought I would tighten everything up. So I started with the toe rail bolts of which several were loose. Apparently, by tightening the bolts, I broke the seal and leaks started. Removed the bolts that were tighened, applied 3M 101 to the bolts and reinstalled. This stopped my leaks. It's worth a try before you attack the hull deck joint.
I have a 1990 35.5 and had the same problem. Shortly after I bought the boat (used) I thought I would tighten everything up. So I started with the toe rail bolts of which several were loose. Apparently, by tightening the bolts, I broke the seal and leaks started. Removed the bolts that were tighened, applied 3M 101 to the bolts and reinstalled. This stopped my leaks. It's worth a try before you attack the hull deck joint.
Windows
You may also want to check the plexiglass windows on the side of the coachroof for leaks that run down the inner liner. The sealant that is used by Hunter has a limited life. I am now in the process of removing and resealing. (L35.5 '93)
You may also want to check the plexiglass windows on the side of the coachroof for leaks that run down the inner liner. The sealant that is used by Hunter has a limited life. I am now in the process of removing and resealing. (L35.5 '93)
I'm on my second deck joint leak
I used the rain last weekend to track down a leak starboard side aft cabin that also leaks under the bed. The water is comping from the deck joint just above the port windows. While away I prob up the mattress with some plastic drinking cups. This keeps the matress out of the small puddle made my the leak. This is the 2nd deck joint leak we have had on our 2002 H410. I guess someone was a little low on 5200 calk the week our boat was assembled :-( -w
I used the rain last weekend to track down a leak starboard side aft cabin that also leaks under the bed. The water is comping from the deck joint just above the port windows. While away I prob up the mattress with some plastic drinking cups. This keeps the matress out of the small puddle made my the leak. This is the 2nd deck joint leak we have had on our 2002 H410. I guess someone was a little low on 5200 calk the week our boat was assembled :-( -w
Use HyperVent vice Dri-Bunk
Much MUCH cheaper than Dri-Deck: HyperVent Features · Elevates bedding 3/4" and allows nearly unobstructed air flow · Easily cut with scissors. · 3" fabric flap for simple seaming. · Excellent durability · Lightweight. · Flexible enough to fit through tight passageways. · Virtually maintenance free. · Cleans with soap and water. And the other thing it does is add a tad bit more cushion to the mattress, something that I don't think Dri-Deck will do. HyperVent Marine 785 Silvergate Ave. San Diego CA 92106 619-224-5626 P.S.: Just tried the link "http://www.hyperventmarine.com/" but it doesn't work! Web design was by "Go Fish Design Group" at http://www.jm-solutions.net/hvport.htm but their link to their customer doesn't work either! The HyperVent link used to work about a month ago.
Much MUCH cheaper than Dri-Deck: HyperVent Features · Elevates bedding 3/4" and allows nearly unobstructed air flow · Easily cut with scissors. · 3" fabric flap for simple seaming. · Excellent durability · Lightweight. · Flexible enough to fit through tight passageways. · Virtually maintenance free. · Cleans with soap and water. And the other thing it does is add a tad bit more cushion to the mattress, something that I don't think Dri-Deck will do. HyperVent Marine 785 Silvergate Ave. San Diego CA 92106 619-224-5626 P.S.: Just tried the link "http://www.hyperventmarine.com/" but it doesn't work! Web design was by "Go Fish Design Group" at http://www.jm-solutions.net/hvport.htm but their link to their customer doesn't work either! The HyperVent link used to work about a month ago.
Genoa Track Okay?
One more thought with regard to the leak source. Possibly it could be the genoa track as these have been known to leak. Just a thought. -= John Nantz =- H35
One more thought with regard to the leak source. Possibly it could be the genoa track as these have been known to leak. Just a thought. -= John Nantz =- H35
Hunter 35.5 Aft Cabin lrak
We have a 92 - 35.5 and we had a periodic leak in our aft cabin. We re-sealed hull deck joint at the transom and it disappeared
We have a 92 - 35.5 and we had a periodic leak in our aft cabin. We re-sealed hull deck joint at the transom and it disappeared
Jerry..
Are you talking about the filter itself? It looks like fiberglass mesh, blue on one side and white on the other? If so I think it would compress and not elevate the foam matress from the floor, thus allowing water to get soked in. Ozana
Are you talking about the filter itself? It looks like fiberglass mesh, blue on one side and white on the other? If so I think it would compress and not elevate the foam matress from the floor, thus allowing water to get soked in. Ozana
leaks
check the aluminum frame in the companionway. The caulking failed om mine and I had a leak in the stern cabin.Water is strange. You can never be sure where it is entering the boat.
check the aluminum frame in the companionway. The caulking failed om mine and I had a leak in the stern cabin.Water is strange. You can never be sure where it is entering the boat.
Use the hose!
Try using a hose on all the probable areas, with someone below following along. I'd bet that you'll find your leak faster this way. All the areas mentioned previously are good places to start.
Try using a hose on all the probable areas, with someone below following along. I'd bet that you'll find your leak faster this way. All the areas mentioned previously are good places to start.
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