Hi to Crazy Dave and others that have knowlege about these boats... What is the construction of the H260 deck to hull joint and are there any bolts that need to be tightened from time to time? I can not recall ever seeing bolt heads under the liner, or in the rim that runs around the boat under the rub rail. Also, peering aft behind the bulkhead at the very stern of the boat, there is no visible seam. Are the hull and deck glassed together? I have heard stories about poorly formed seams and errant rubrail mounting screws causing leaks near the water line on the stern of some H260 (and maybe 240) boats in the 1998 to 2000 or so model years. On my boat, I periodically get salt water under the aft bunk, after sailing. It will be dry before going out and wet upon return, but not always. It seems to get wet more often when I have several people on board, leading me to beleive that the extra weight is sitting the boat lower and putting the leak under water more often. It is not a lot of water, but a nuisance because upon heeling, it will work its way onto the aft bunk walls, then back down under the bunk cushions. I have noticed trickle lines of water coming from the extreem aft, port side, below the motor mount. I'm wondering if water can seep through the motor mount braket holes if momentarily submerged due to a wave. Thank you for any knowldge that you can pass along. Dave -- I've looked at the keel bolt area as you suggested (last season) and found that area to be very dry. Also, all the drains are tight and secure, and the bilge pump drain has a loop to prevent backflow. Fair winds, Tom
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Frank Pratt
Similar experience
I had a similar leak and all was solved when removed and rebedded attachments on the stern. In my case I believe the culprit was the swim ladder. This was on a 1994 23.5.
I had a similar leak and all was solved when removed and rebedded attachments on the stern. In my case I believe the culprit was the swim ladder. This was on a 1994 23.5.
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crazy dave
260?
There was a problem at one time where the hull to deck joint was not done properly on the 260. Hunter corrected that but you may have a boat that needs attention. Please advise what boat you have to include model year and can you tell me when you see the water if it is coming from the transom area when looking in the aft storage behind the rear berth. Crayz daveeeeeee
There was a problem at one time where the hull to deck joint was not done properly on the 260. Hunter corrected that but you may have a boat that needs attention. Please advise what boat you have to include model year and can you tell me when you see the water if it is coming from the transom area when looking in the aft storage behind the rear berth. Crayz daveeeeeee
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Tom
1999 H260
Hi Dave, The boat is a 1999 H260. The first few years the boat was dusty dry in the bilges. Then in the 2001 season, I noticed water under the aft bunk cushions occassionally. I have been monitoring it, and as far as I can tell, it appears to come from the port, aft part of the boat, and I suspect the through bolts for the outboard motor mount. It is salt water and I have monitored the ballast tank valve area and the swing keel bolt area and both have stayed dry. To monitor, I shove paper towels down around the edges of those areas and check to see if they are wet at the beginning and end of the sail. Always dry. I spread cloth beach towels around the aft bunk to determine where the water was coming from and found that it was actually entering from the starboard side when heeled over so that water can run up along the starboard side of the hull, then spread under the cushions from there. The battery platform prevents water from running up the port side when heeling on a port tack. I noticed water tracks running down from the aft port side, behind the battery, in the aft storage area, and that is why I suspect that area. The motor mounts are not usually under water but do occasionally get a wave high enough to put them under. Leaks seems to appear more when I've had guests on board, causing the boat to sit lower on its stern. I'm hoping to find and fix it before launching this year. Will use the garden hose test to see if I can determine the source, but am looking for guidance on where else I might point the hose to find the problem. Thanks and fair winds... Tom
Hi Dave, The boat is a 1999 H260. The first few years the boat was dusty dry in the bilges. Then in the 2001 season, I noticed water under the aft bunk cushions occassionally. I have been monitoring it, and as far as I can tell, it appears to come from the port, aft part of the boat, and I suspect the through bolts for the outboard motor mount. It is salt water and I have monitored the ballast tank valve area and the swing keel bolt area and both have stayed dry. To monitor, I shove paper towels down around the edges of those areas and check to see if they are wet at the beginning and end of the sail. Always dry. I spread cloth beach towels around the aft bunk to determine where the water was coming from and found that it was actually entering from the starboard side when heeled over so that water can run up along the starboard side of the hull, then spread under the cushions from there. The battery platform prevents water from running up the port side when heeling on a port tack. I noticed water tracks running down from the aft port side, behind the battery, in the aft storage area, and that is why I suspect that area. The motor mounts are not usually under water but do occasionally get a wave high enough to put them under. Leaks seems to appear more when I've had guests on board, causing the boat to sit lower on its stern. I'm hoping to find and fix it before launching this year. Will use the garden hose test to see if I can determine the source, but am looking for guidance on where else I might point the hose to find the problem. Thanks and fair winds... Tom
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crazy dave
Tom
You got a mole in your boat tunneling causing water passages. Just kidding. You probably have a leak in the hull to deck joint in the transom area. When no one is on the boat, then it is above water but if you add folks to the boat, then the hull to deck joint is below the water line, thus you get water. Take the rubber insert of the rub rail off but mark it so when it goes back on, you will get it in the right place. rubber strectches just like my big ole fat tummy. Next remove the screws holding the plastic rubrail up to the top curvature on the side of the boats. Do this for both sides. You will probably see lack of marine sealant and maybe where screws may have been screwed in without pre drilling the holes. I have seen where there were some screws were broken off. Remove them and fill in with epoxy but not the ones where you have removed the screws. Also look at the seam to see if is cracked. If you see a crack, then simply dremel out and apply two part epoxy the kind that will not allow water to penetrate through it. Sand smooth. All done, use acetone to clean. Now take 5200 and apply at the seam and every screw liberally and reattach the rub rail. Clean up the access quickly. Replace insert remembering the marks that correspond to the rub rail. Go sailing and advise if this solved your problem. Hunter did correct the construction and some heads rolled on that but the boat is overall built well. If you have any other questions or need direct help, ask for my email address from the forum to be sent to your email only. Do not post my email nor advise who or where I am. Thanks a bunch. Crazy Dave Condon
You got a mole in your boat tunneling causing water passages. Just kidding. You probably have a leak in the hull to deck joint in the transom area. When no one is on the boat, then it is above water but if you add folks to the boat, then the hull to deck joint is below the water line, thus you get water. Take the rubber insert of the rub rail off but mark it so when it goes back on, you will get it in the right place. rubber strectches just like my big ole fat tummy. Next remove the screws holding the plastic rubrail up to the top curvature on the side of the boats. Do this for both sides. You will probably see lack of marine sealant and maybe where screws may have been screwed in without pre drilling the holes. I have seen where there were some screws were broken off. Remove them and fill in with epoxy but not the ones where you have removed the screws. Also look at the seam to see if is cracked. If you see a crack, then simply dremel out and apply two part epoxy the kind that will not allow water to penetrate through it. Sand smooth. All done, use acetone to clean. Now take 5200 and apply at the seam and every screw liberally and reattach the rub rail. Clean up the access quickly. Replace insert remembering the marks that correspond to the rub rail. Go sailing and advise if this solved your problem. Hunter did correct the construction and some heads rolled on that but the boat is overall built well. If you have any other questions or need direct help, ask for my email address from the forum to be sent to your email only. Do not post my email nor advise who or where I am. Thanks a bunch. Crazy Dave Condon
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Tom
Thanks Dave...
Dave, Thank you for your reply. Here are a few questions to clarify... 1. Should I take the rub rail off all around the boat or just the transome? 2. Could there be a need to take the rub rail hardware off again in the future, (5200 is fairly permanent)? 3. Is it likely that this problem could develop after a couple of years? The boat was very dry the first two seasons. Thanks again for your continued support... your knowledge and willingness to share it is greatly appreciated. Fair winds, Tom
Dave, Thank you for your reply. Here are a few questions to clarify... 1. Should I take the rub rail off all around the boat or just the transome? 2. Could there be a need to take the rub rail hardware off again in the future, (5200 is fairly permanent)? 3. Is it likely that this problem could develop after a couple of years? The boat was very dry the first two seasons. Thanks again for your continued support... your knowledge and willingness to share it is greatly appreciated. Fair winds, Tom
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crazy dave
tom
Just go up to the curvature on the port and starboard sides only. There is one other place to check and that will be the attachement of the rudder fittings to the hull. If you do what I say, then the cure is a permantnet fix. Good luck and keep me posted. Crazy Dave Condon
Just go up to the curvature on the port and starboard sides only. There is one other place to check and that will be the attachement of the rudder fittings to the hull. If you do what I say, then the cure is a permantnet fix. Good luck and keep me posted. Crazy Dave Condon
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Tim Paul
Warranty?
Tom - If your boat's a 99, shouldn't this kind of thing be covered by the 5-year Hunter warranty? The warranty is actually based on date of new sale (not model year). It sounds like quite a bit of work. Just a thought. Good Luck!
Tom - If your boat's a 99, shouldn't this kind of thing be covered by the 5-year Hunter warranty? The warranty is actually based on date of new sale (not model year). It sounds like quite a bit of work. Just a thought. Good Luck!
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Tom
Tim re:warranty
Good thought... If it looks like a serious problem, I'll take it to the dealer, but I don't mind taking an initial "look see" and fixing it myself if not too serious. My dealer is a two+ hour drive away (two round trips is 8+ hours driving and kills 2 weekend days), and this is their busy time of year, so might be waiting a while before they can get to it. Fair winds, Tom
Good thought... If it looks like a serious problem, I'll take it to the dealer, but I don't mind taking an initial "look see" and fixing it myself if not too serious. My dealer is a two+ hour drive away (two round trips is 8+ hours driving and kills 2 weekend days), and this is their busy time of year, so might be waiting a while before they can get to it. Fair winds, Tom
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