I would like to remove the exterior wood on my Oday to refinish the pieces over the winter. Do I have to drill the plugs out of the pieces that do not seem to have interior access?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
B
Ben Bishopo
Yes
Yes those plugs hide and protect screws which are SS and they go right into the fiberglass. You will need to put some epoxy/fiberglass into each hole to tighten them up. I made all new deck wood of teak. My old stuff was garbage. The handrails of course are thru bolted, much more difficult to remove. I cut mine off with a sawzall, threw them away and used SS handrails instead.
Yes those plugs hide and protect screws which are SS and they go right into the fiberglass. You will need to put some epoxy/fiberglass into each hole to tighten them up. I made all new deck wood of teak. My old stuff was garbage. The handrails of course are thru bolted, much more difficult to remove. I cut mine off with a sawzall, threw them away and used SS handrails instead.
G
Gene Kauffman
Handrails
wait...the handrails are held on with long screws from down below. Don't try drilling out the teak plugs. Just go below and put an electric screw driver on the screw heads and twist away. Be careful with the screws when you put them back on because your cabin overhead can compress and the screw will pop the teak plug off. I took mine off and refinshed them then re-installed them. As for the rest of the stuff, take the plugs out, take them off, refinish them, then go to West Marine and buy new teak plugs. Epoxy them in and chip them off with a chisel slightly above the teak rail, etc them sand them down level. I did all of my teak with a product called Bristol Finish. It's a two part product and you can lay on 8 coats in one day. It's very tough stuff for here in the tropical weather and looks great. They say it only needs a touch up every few years. The website is www.bristolfinish.com. Gene
wait...the handrails are held on with long screws from down below. Don't try drilling out the teak plugs. Just go below and put an electric screw driver on the screw heads and twist away. Be careful with the screws when you put them back on because your cabin overhead can compress and the screw will pop the teak plug off. I took mine off and refinshed them then re-installed them. As for the rest of the stuff, take the plugs out, take them off, refinish them, then go to West Marine and buy new teak plugs. Epoxy them in and chip them off with a chisel slightly above the teak rail, etc them sand them down level. I did all of my teak with a product called Bristol Finish. It's a two part product and you can lay on 8 coats in one day. It's very tough stuff for here in the tropical weather and looks great. They say it only needs a touch up every few years. The website is www.bristolfinish.com. Gene
R
Rich SantaColoma
I didn't have to...
Maybe someone had modified mine at some point, but my grabrails were held on by flathead screws (heads under the plugs) and washers/nuts inside the boat. All the nuts came off without the screws turning... so I simply pulled the rails off. Rich.
Maybe someone had modified mine at some point, but my grabrails were held on by flathead screws (heads under the plugs) and washers/nuts inside the boat. All the nuts came off without the screws turning... so I simply pulled the rails off. Rich.
D
Drew
almost there
Hand rails came off, no problem. The guides for the hatch however are a different story. The plugs drilled out ok but someone stripped all of the screew heads. Any suggestions, .
Hand rails came off, no problem. The guides for the hatch however are a different story. The plugs drilled out ok but someone stripped all of the screew heads. Any suggestions, .
A
Alan Gruber
I left the wood on
Drew; I have a '78 22 which I owned since '85. I teak oiled the wood about once a year. By last spring it was black, gritty and starting to crack. Like you I wanted to make it a winter project. But a close inspection of the wood and the factory bedding revieled that everything was intact. Re-bedding is probably the most important part of the job to protect core wood rot, and I didn't want to mess with it if it was already sealed well. I decided to leave the wood on the boat. I used West marine's two part cleaner and brightner. The first cleaning was with a wire brush, Then I wet sanded it with the cleaner and a 3M sanding sponge. It worked well, The sponge can get into tight places. I got a lot of punky wood off- about the thickness of a nickel in some places. The sludge did not mar the fiberglass but I sprayed it off frequently with water. The brightener worked well too. I scraped the orignal bedding compound at the wood/fiberglass joints and ran a bead of 3m 101 into the joint. I then used 3 coats of Sikkens Cetol Marine Light with a very light 220 sanding between the second and third coats. Sikkens Light blocks the original color of teak- I hear that most people are using Clear. I like the job I did but, I'll be watching for leaks. I have an e-photo of my boat if you want to see the color of the wood. Unga@wi-net.com. Alan Gruber
Drew; I have a '78 22 which I owned since '85. I teak oiled the wood about once a year. By last spring it was black, gritty and starting to crack. Like you I wanted to make it a winter project. But a close inspection of the wood and the factory bedding revieled that everything was intact. Re-bedding is probably the most important part of the job to protect core wood rot, and I didn't want to mess with it if it was already sealed well. I decided to leave the wood on the boat. I used West marine's two part cleaner and brightner. The first cleaning was with a wire brush, Then I wet sanded it with the cleaner and a 3M sanding sponge. It worked well, The sponge can get into tight places. I got a lot of punky wood off- about the thickness of a nickel in some places. The sludge did not mar the fiberglass but I sprayed it off frequently with water. The brightener worked well too. I scraped the orignal bedding compound at the wood/fiberglass joints and ran a bead of 3m 101 into the joint. I then used 3 coats of Sikkens Cetol Marine Light with a very light 220 sanding between the second and third coats. Sikkens Light blocks the original color of teak- I hear that most people are using Clear. I like the job I did but, I'll be watching for leaks. I have an e-photo of my boat if you want to see the color of the wood. Unga@wi-net.com. Alan Gruber
E
EJ Tews
Stripped screws
Hi Andrew, You can get a back out tool at Home depot, you drill a pilot hole and then the bit is a reverse bit that will bite in the pilot hole. I had a few like that also, I think the assemly line did that. I replaced the slide hatches, so i just cut up the slides and was starting over anyway. EJ
Hi Andrew, You can get a back out tool at Home depot, you drill a pilot hole and then the bit is a reverse bit that will bite in the pilot hole. I had a few like that also, I think the assemly line did that. I replaced the slide hatches, so i just cut up the slides and was starting over anyway. EJ
D
Drew
- Status
- Not open for further replies.