Deck Hardware Removal

[Murray Beggs]

I am planning a Deck painting project on my H30 this winter. I believe the best way to produce a premium job is to fully remove all of the deck hardware including stantchions and anything else that is not fiberglass.My question is:Has there been anyone else who has done this and what challenges or pointers can you give me?Also, is there any deckhardware that I should simply leave alone and not attempt to remove?Your input is greatly appreciated!Murray

 

[joe phibbs]

we did something similar

We did something similar with our Hunter 31 this summer...but not as extensive. The cheek block sheeve and the deck organizer both were shattered from wear. The hardware was really hard to pry up. be careful to score the perimeter, so that each piece you pry up does not bring along a jagged piece of gelcoat. it is worth it to remove the hardware, tho.to do a really professional job. good luck. joe

 

[Marina]

Nuts concealed by Inner Liner

I noticed that on my Hunter 27 (75-83 series) that on most of the stanchions abeam the mast, the two inner most nuts that hold the base on are concealed by the inner liner and are all but impossible to get to in order to remove. It appears the manufacture bolted the stanchions on prior to inserting the inner core/liner. I hope your situation is not the same! If so, good luck! I have not figure out a way to remove these nuts just yet.MarinaMarina

 

[Mike Everitt]

Removal of hardware

We (my wife and I) are in the finishing stages of a similar project. I planned to remove every piece of hardware from our 1980 H30 in order to fully restore (fiberglass repair, paint, etc.) the boat. I was successful in removing everything except the line guides at the bow. The bolts for these were at such an angle that the only way to remove them would have been to cut the bolts off, so I let them be. Everything else came off. It took a whole day to remove the hardware. It is definently a two person job or you better be extremely flexible with long arms. It is also somewhat agravating, because they use 3" bolts on everything, when shorter ones would have done nicely. Would recommend that you invest in a good 18v (or better) power driver. I also noticed that there are NO backing plates on anything, I plan to make and install those when we reassemble.Also, this is a tough job. Painting the top made painting the hull seem like a walk in the park. The number of angles, obstructions, dealing with the non-skid, etc. has been a pain. I might do a hull again, but I'll pay someone to do the top next time.