Deck Hardware Bedding

[Plymouth Sailor]

Dear Fellow Sailors,

Ive been working on boato for 50 years so I fully understand to seal deck hardware properly, I need first to remove it and then re-bed it. I’ve recently opened a brewery and taproom so my time is limited and this extensive work is not in my cards. SO, looking for the next best thing in the meantime until I can do the proper work. Is there any product that is liquid which I can drip or pour into the seams of my deck hardware and then seal with an average sealant?

Your constructive advice appreciated!

Thanks, Mark

 

[dlochner]

Sealing hardware from the outside never works for long. Two products that work least poorly are Captain Tolley's Crack Cure and Boat Life's Liquid Polysulfide. As you are aware this approach is merely kicking the (craft brew) can down the road.

Good Luck on your new adventure.

 

[Terry Cox]

Good morning, Mark. Please clarify what you mean by deck hardware seams. If you have hardware that needs to be re-bed, I would first remove it, clean up both surfaces and replace using 3M-4200 sealant.

 

[JamesG161]

Look here for best information and how to do it!

Bedding Deck Hardware With Bed-IT Tape - Marine How To

Jim...

 

[NYSail]

The only thing I use on anything on my deck that is bolted down butyl tape as per Rod (Maine sail).

Greg

 

[Project_Mayhem]

I've put butyl around a leaking fitting from the outside as a temporary measure.

...Wait a second, that was two years ago and it's still there holding strong and collecting dirt. Removing old butyl is a pain as it gains holding power and using solvents to clean it up makes even more of a mess

 

[Plymouth Sailor]

Sealing hardware from the outside never works for long. Two products that work least poorly are Captain Tolley's Crack Cure and Boat Life's Liquid Polysulfide. As you are aware this approach is merely kicking the (craft brew) can down the road.

Good Luck on your new adventure.

Like the pun, thx!

 

[Plymouth Sailor]

Good morning, Mark. Please clarify what you mean by deck hardware seams. If you have hardware that needs to be re-bed, I would first remove it, clean up both surfaces and replace using 3M-4200 sealant.

Thanks, BUT as I stated, no time this year to do the proper work.

 

[heritage]

You could squirt some Gorilla hot glue around the base of the hardware. Should last through the sailing season. It would be easy to peel it off and not leave much residue when you are ready to do a proper job. Disclaimer: I've never tried this.

 

[higgs]

Damage from leaking hardware can get extensive. I think the Butyl calk is your best bet for a short term fix.

 

[...3TacksontheWater]

Thanks, BUT as I stated, no time this year to do the proper work.

Plymouth Sailor:

I appreciate your situation. Sometimes, work and business have to take priority. I’m excited for you and wish you the best with your craft brewery. I’m slowly getting closer to launch and my “friends” are constantly chiding me that I could have sailed the boat on day one instead of taking a much slower “on the hard” route of check and repair/replace as discovered. I infer from your comments that you have silicone sealant and leaks. Is this correct? With the acquisition of Waffle House, I’ve become adept at removing silicone and replacing with Maine Sails’s Bed-It tape. My new best friend has become a can of DeBond Marine Formula which is available on Amazon. Using DeBond has saved me a lot of time. One of the last items on the checklist for WH is to drill and install access ports in the anchor locker as there is (gasp) a glob of silicone on the fore starboard pulpit stanchion. While I am assuming, if you have obvious leaks, those depending on location and possible wood rot, IMO, need to be addressed before launch. Everything else can go on the checklist and done at your “leisure“ that is, if you have any leisure time if that comes available.

George

 

[Project_Mayhem]

You could squirt some Gorilla hot glue around the base of the hardware. Should last through the sailing season. It would be easy to peel it off and not leave much residue when you are ready to do a proper job. Disclaimer: I've never tried this.

It might fail once the sun starts baking it everyday. Butyl will work well as a temporary fix

 

[Hayden Watson]

I've put butyl around a leaking fitting from the outside as a temporary measure.

...Wait a second, that was two years ago and it's still there holding strong and collecting dirt. Removing old butyl is a pain as it gains holding power and using solvents to clean it up makes even more of a mess

Mineral spirit will completely dissolve Bed-it. I used to throw away and replace any fasteners for hardware on parts with bed-it because it is so hard to remove. Then I found mineral spirit. Drop them in a small jars and after a few hours, the bed-it is fully liquidated.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Mineral spirit will completely dissolve Bed-it. I used to throw away and replace any fasteners for hardware on parts with bed-it because it is so hard to remove. Then I found mineral spirit. Drop them in a small jars and after a few hours, the bed-it is fully liquidated.

I've tried acetone and it makes a mess. I typically use a Scotchbrite wheel on hardware and hidden fiberglass surfaces. Does mineral spirits affect gelcoat if left too long?

 

[dlochner]

I've tried acetone and it makes a mess. I typically use a Scotchbrite wheel on hardware and hidden fiberglass surfaces. Does mineral spirits affect gelcoat if left too long?

Mineral spirits is a great solvent. Safe for most surfaces, dissolves grease, thins some paint, and while it will burn, it not as flammable as other solvents.

Denatured alcohol and mineral spirits are my go to solvents.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Mineral spirits is a great solvent. Safe for most surfaces, dissolves grease, thins some paint, and while it will burn, it not as flammable as other solvents.

Denatured alcohol and mineral spirits are my go to solvents.

Awesome! I'll give that a try in my grimy engine compartment!