Deck and Hull Paint Recommendations

Mar 21, 2024
27
Skeeter 185 Clinton
I've picked up my new-to-me Catalina 25. She's a 1988 and hasn't been sailed much. Sat in a yard the last two years, prior to that sat in a slip and sailed less than a 1/2 dozen times over the previous 5-6 years. The owner I bought her from was going to sail, but didn't. He or the previous PO couldn't tell me the last time she had her bottom painted. After I bought her I found one chip and 4 very small (pencil lead diameter) holes up in the non-skid area just aft of the anchor locker (can see fiberglass matt barely). Probably due to someone dropping an anchor or dragging it around on deck. I'm going to paint that area with "some" deck paint and maintain/paint her bottom this year. Can anyone make recommendations on deck paint that would temporarily seal those areas and bottom paint. I also will need some red hull paint and a light blue to paint the original hull lines. Recommendation on that paint as well is much recommended.
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,424
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
I assume you are okay with what it will look like after painting holes.
Alternatively, you might consider first determining if or how much moisture entered through the holes which could damage the core layer. You don’t want to simply paint over rot. If you’re very lucky and there is no damage, build up the areas with gelcoat to match the color which will obviate the need for paint.
 
Mar 21, 2024
27
Skeeter 185 Clinton
Thanks for your feedbabck. Hulls been out of the water for years now, the deck feels totally solid so my assumption is that not much damage, if any. I've been a boat owner - fiberglass power, freshwater, bass boats - for 20+ years and don't know of any other way to check under the glass if it's solid. Us freshwater bass boat types pull our boats out of the water after every trip so worrying/managing/monitoring moisture levels in the core is all new to me. Recommendations?
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,424
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
Thanks for your feedbabck. Hulls been out of the water for years now, the deck feels totally solid so my assumption is that not much damage, if any. I've been a boat owner - fiberglass power, freshwater, bass boats - for 20+ years and don't know of any other way to check under the glass if it's solid. Us freshwater bass boat types pull our boats out of the water after every trip so worrying/managing/monitoring moisture levels in the core is all new to me. Recommendations?
Sounding it with a phenolic hammer is one way but can be misleading. Using a moisture type capacitance meter is another. Visual inspection by drilling some small holes and observing the condition of the tailings is a good way when repairs in the area are already planned.

I don’t know the construction of your boat but assume the deck is cored. If so, it’s almost inevitable that water/moisture has permeated the surrounding core especially because it has been unattended for years.

You have a small problem now. Checking the core ensures it stays a small problem.
 
Mar 21, 2024
27
Skeeter 185 Clinton
Thanks for the thoughts/comments. I'll get some pictures this weekend. Super tiny holes. My "assumption" is that the boat has been on the hard for 2+ years to any moisture intrusion would have been from rain water. The area looks/feels solid so I don't want to investigate/drill at this point.

It is a cored deck, but if it's been on the hard 2+ won't most of the water intrustion have evaporated/dried out prior to doing damage?
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,567
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
Thanks for the thoughts/comments. I'll get some pictures this weekend. Super tiny holes. My "assumption" is that the boat has been on the hard for 2+ years to any moisture intrusion would have been from rain water. The area looks/feels solid so I don't want to investigate/drill at this point.

It is a cored deck, but if it's been on the hard 2+ won't most of the water intrustion have evaporated/dried out prior to doing damage?
Every time it rains, it gets "more wet" :(

Greg
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,121
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
  1. deck paint that would temporarily seal those areas and
  2. bottom paint.
  3. I also will need some red hull paint and a light blue to paint the original hull lines.
1. Paint on boats is usually a thin film. It does a poor job of filling holes in a deck to stop water intrusion. Better to use an epoxy filler. Sand smooth and then apply paint over the top. Jamestown Distributors sells a line of products named Total Boat that can do what you need. Fill the holes then paint the deck. There is a boat owner in my marina that swears by Rustolium topside paint on his deck and topside.

2. Bottom Paint comes is a variety of products and colors. There are single season ablative paints or hardened multi year paints. Costs are all over the board. You’ll want one that meets your pocket book and gives you the service you desire.

3. Hull paint. The sides of a boat hull ( the area above the water that is not the deck) is known as the “top sides”. Here many owners look for a shiny surface that resists scratches (like the sides of a new pickup). The boat was built with a thick colored gel coat. It scratch’s but can be buffed out. Paint is not as forgiving. Look for a paint that for the boat top sides. They are usually a harder surface paint that can give you a nice look for a couple of years.

Once you paint there is no going back to gelcoat.
 

jviss

.
Feb 5, 2004
7,089
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
Just because the gelcoat is damaged, in the "tiny" way you suggest, doesn't mean the underlying resin is compromised and that there has been water intrusion. You may be fine.

I have an ultrasonic moisture detector that I got at a homeowner store for around $40 that seems to be reasonably accurate. You might get one and probe around with that.

For pencil-lead sized "holes" in the gelcoat I would get a little container of gelcoat and have at it. I wouldn't even worry about an exact color match.

Then, if paint you must, I recommend Awlgrip, if you can afford it, and manage it (it's a two-part epoxy-like paint).