I have an 83 H34 w/dead steaming and mast lights. I've checked the circuit board for a circuit and have found the wires to be dead. I've also been up to the steaming light and found nothing coming from the wires. My conclusion, I guess, is that the connection at the base of the mast is broken. I've tried to get at the connection from inside the boat but don't seem to have any ready access. Is the only way at that to remove the mast? Anyone w/similar problems?
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Allan Hadad
Connectors
You are right, the connectors are inside the mast, near the base. They have probably become corroded as is the copper wire that was used. The only way I know of accessing them is to pull the mast. This may be a good time to pull the mast, paint it, rewire it and check the compression post for structural integrety. I also added a tri-color on top. When I rewired my mast, I made the wires extra long so that all the connections are inside the boat. I installed a terminal strip inside the settee. Allan
You are right, the connectors are inside the mast, near the base. They have probably become corroded as is the copper wire that was used. The only way I know of accessing them is to pull the mast. This may be a good time to pull the mast, paint it, rewire it and check the compression post for structural integrety. I also added a tri-color on top. When I rewired my mast, I made the wires extra long so that all the connections are inside the boat. I installed a terminal strip inside the settee. Allan
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Ron Dague
Aren't the wires visible at the compression post?
I pulled the teak off of my compression post about 2 months ago, to check for damage. Surprise, my h34 had none, perhaps due to the large black metal plate under the mast on the 1983 h34's. But I seem to recall the wires visible and acessible coming through the the "V-notch" cut in the post. I'm sure Allan would remember more accurately, and might have pictures of them.
I pulled the teak off of my compression post about 2 months ago, to check for damage. Surprise, my h34 had none, perhaps due to the large black metal plate under the mast on the 1983 h34's. But I seem to recall the wires visible and acessible coming through the the "V-notch" cut in the post. I'm sure Allan would remember more accurately, and might have pictures of them.
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Barry Olsen
Try This!
You can remove the pulley sheaves at the base of the mast and access the wiring connection plug from there without pulling the mast. I was able to remove the corroded plug and install crimp connectors to each of the four wire. I'll fix it right when I finally get around to pulling the mast (unless I get a better boat first) Barry s/v "PER DIEM too"
You can remove the pulley sheaves at the base of the mast and access the wiring connection plug from there without pulling the mast. I was able to remove the corroded plug and install crimp connectors to each of the four wire. I'll fix it right when I finally get around to pulling the mast (unless I get a better boat first) Barry s/v "PER DIEM too"
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Matt
thanks for the responses
I'll try the sheaves first, then the post, then, if ALL else fails, yank the mast. Matt
I'll try the sheaves first, then the post, then, if ALL else fails, yank the mast. Matt
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David Krozier
Checking wiring
If you can get to the wires you can check for voltage even if you can't get to a connector. Just put a small pin through the insulation of each wire you want to test and now you have temporary test points. This might help you understand where the problem is located before you undertake the expense of pulling the mast. David H27 Renegade
If you can get to the wires you can check for voltage even if you can't get to a connector. Just put a small pin through the insulation of each wire you want to test and now you have temporary test points. This might help you understand where the problem is located before you undertake the expense of pulling the mast. David H27 Renegade
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Matt
still searching
Barry - my sheaves are welded on -- did you break the weld to get at the base wiring? Also, I looked into Ron's solution -- attacking the wires from the compression post -- but to no avail; the fiberglass runs solid around the post. Did you cut into it?
Barry - my sheaves are welded on -- did you break the weld to get at the base wiring? Also, I looked into Ron's solution -- attacking the wires from the compression post -- but to no avail; the fiberglass runs solid around the post. Did you cut into it?
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Barry
Guess you don't have the large black mast base
My 1983 h34 (hull #56) has a large black mast base with sheaves that are easily removable. Newer boats I have seen have the sheaves in the mast and they may be more difficult to remove. I've use this solution on two early h34 boats with good success. I removed the teak trip behind the boor to the head. I was told that the wiring channel is visible behind it but I couldn't see it on mine. Under the dinette seat I could see where the wiring exits the wood post and goes into the floor. I suspect there is a lot of variation on how these were built. If you end up pulling the mast I strongly suggest you remove all the teak trim around the wood compresion post, inspect the post and consider replacing it if these is any rot. Barry
My 1983 h34 (hull #56) has a large black mast base with sheaves that are easily removable. Newer boats I have seen have the sheaves in the mast and they may be more difficult to remove. I've use this solution on two early h34 boats with good success. I removed the teak trip behind the boor to the head. I was told that the wiring channel is visible behind it but I couldn't see it on mine. Under the dinette seat I could see where the wiring exits the wood post and goes into the floor. I suspect there is a lot of variation on how these were built. If you end up pulling the mast I strongly suggest you remove all the teak trim around the wood compresion post, inspect the post and consider replacing it if these is any rot. Barry
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