I recently replaced by Hood line drive furler with their single line unit. They recommend a 3/8" x 70' furling line with the first 15-20' de-cored. How do I "de-core" this line myself? Anyone? Randy
- Status
I also
have the Hood single line system; a 915 Seafurl I think. Did you get the upgrade/replacement from Hood for the 50% discount? That looks like a pretty good deal. This is the first year I have had this boat and will try this unit out for a season before I spend the money on this part. Greg
have the Hood single line system; a 915 Seafurl I think. Did you get the upgrade/replacement from Hood for the 50% discount? That looks like a pretty good deal. This is the first year I have had this boat and will try this unit out for a season before I spend the money on this part. Greg
De-cored last year
My Sheaffer 1100 has a 50' furling line and was fouling intermittantly; couldn't trace it back to anything specific. So, Steve @ the North Avenue West Marine showed me how to remove the core and fix this problem (it did): tie a knot at the cockpit end of the line; this will be important once you've cut the core and begin to pull the outer skin. At the business end, peel back the outer core to gain access to the inner core. Pull the inner core one direction and cinch back the outer core the other direction. The outer layer will bunch up along/around the inner. When you expose the amount you want to remove, cut it (seal it if you want to) and pull or un-bunch the outer core. Gloves come in handy 'cause this will create friction. You'll know when to quit because the intact end will be smooth all the way to the cut section. Re-rig it the same way it was previously rigged and the 'line' will now behave more like a 'tape' and lay flat in the drum, giving you more drum-winding capacity. Hope the helps. Take care.
My Sheaffer 1100 has a 50' furling line and was fouling intermittantly; couldn't trace it back to anything specific. So, Steve @ the North Avenue West Marine showed me how to remove the core and fix this problem (it did): tie a knot at the cockpit end of the line; this will be important once you've cut the core and begin to pull the outer skin. At the business end, peel back the outer core to gain access to the inner core. Pull the inner core one direction and cinch back the outer core the other direction. The outer layer will bunch up along/around the inner. When you expose the amount you want to remove, cut it (seal it if you want to) and pull or un-bunch the outer core. Gloves come in handy 'cause this will create friction. You'll know when to quit because the intact end will be smooth all the way to the cut section. Re-rig it the same way it was previously rigged and the 'line' will now behave more like a 'tape' and lay flat in the drum, giving you more drum-winding capacity. Hope the helps. Take care.
that steve is a knowledgeble gent
hes always been very helpful and has impressed me before with his knowledge!! mike
hes always been very helpful and has impressed me before with his knowledge!! mike
Another method -
Hi, I did mine last year, and I did it a little differently. It works best with a new line. Use your marlinspike to open up the cover braid where you want to make the cut, dig out the core, cut it, then you only have about 6 inches of line to straighten out. I haven't tried the other way, so I can't say which one's easier - I just thought I'd give you something else to think about. Kevin
Hi, I did mine last year, and I did it a little differently. It works best with a new line. Use your marlinspike to open up the cover braid where you want to make the cut, dig out the core, cut it, then you only have about 6 inches of line to straighten out. I haven't tried the other way, so I can't say which one's easier - I just thought I'd give you something else to think about. Kevin
Furling Line De-core Solved!
Thanks to all who responded. I now feel confident doing this myself. The system I have is the Hood upgrade which they discounted for the C34 group. I think I paid 6 boat units. It works with out sliping which my orginal was prone to do. The only problem I had last season was not enough turns on the drum because I did not decore the line. When I had a tight headsail wrap, I did'nt have enough draw to fully furl the sail. Fair Winds to all! Randy
Thanks to all who responded. I now feel confident doing this myself. The system I have is the Hood upgrade which they discounted for the C34 group. I think I paid 6 boat units. It works with out sliping which my orginal was prone to do. The only problem I had last season was not enough turns on the drum because I did not decore the line. When I had a tight headsail wrap, I did'nt have enough draw to fully furl the sail. Fair Winds to all! Randy
Don't forget to lock stitch the core
in place once you have the cover milked back down. Another suggestion would be to taper the core's end by staggering the strand cuts. This would allow a smooth transition from flat to round. I think Kevin's method is a bit more tedious than Grizz's, but better in the long run, because it disrupts the cover less.
in place once you have the cover milked back down. Another suggestion would be to taper the core's end by staggering the strand cuts. This would allow a smooth transition from flat to round. I think Kevin's method is a bit more tedious than Grizz's, but better in the long run, because it disrupts the cover less.
- Status